Id like to hear from anyone in here that has swapped fuel pumps themselves. How difficult was it? How did you use it? and what pump did you use and are you happy with it?
I have a 350 TBI and it must be like dropping way off at like 3500 and above.
Wouls like to get this done before the weekend. So I can see what she'll really do.
Thanx 4 yor time
jmp

 

it is not an overly difficult task really. what it is however is a time consuming pain inthe *** .
there are two ways to do it. the proper, service station way is to drop the rear far enough that you can get th etank out and then swap it and reverse the process. that is of course the way that gm and your local gas staion will do it.
then there is the fun and easier way. take out mister saws all measure out where the sending unit is in the top of the tank, pull up the rear carpet and cut a section out of the floor pan. no do the service from th etop of the tank from the inside of the car. when it is time to close it up attach a hing and latch to the section you cut out and you will have a nice trap door to use the next time you need to service or run larger/more lines in your fuel system.
i prefer method #2 myself. it will save you a ton of time and make things easier in the future. also if you put some thin rubber molding around the new trap door it won't even rattle and it can be done so that it lays flat under the carpet.

later
tim


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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

I Helped do this on a v6 to a 350tpi swap once, and we changed fuel pumps for some reason. First we pulled the *** end of the car apart, and then decided that we should cut a hole afterwards, and we ended up burning up like 4 pumps before we figured out that a line was kinked. I say go with the measure and hack method. Definantly cool to have a trap door. Who knows. Maybe the previous owner already has it done for you.

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69 Chevelle 2dr hardtop blue, bench seats, 12 bolt w/3.73's muncie 4 speed. TBI w/custom harness and prom best 14.5@90

 

Thanks for the trap door idea Tim. I've seen it on lots of fuel cells. Just didn't think to use it for the fuel pump-line situation.

 

Not to insult anyone's intelligence, just to clarify. They mean cutting a hole in the body of the car to GET to the top of the fuel tank. Not cutting access into the tank like a fuel cell has.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec, Accel Pro-Ram MPFI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
T56 - SIX-speed
open 3.73's
3 inch Flowmaster catback
I love pissing those LS1's off

Old time with TBI - 13.9 @103mph, 2.6 60ft

My Formula

 

LOL Yeah a die grinder would make a mess with a gas tank.

 

Any recommendations on where to get these doors? I saw an aluminum hinged door kit from Jegs (cat. # 710-85700) it measures 8"x8" and has a door that measures 6"x6". Would this size be sufficient to get the pump assembly through? Also, would this modification compromise the structural integrity of the chassis in any way?

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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.

 

I recommend the standard way of replacing the fuel pump. Removing the tank. Remove or swing the exhaust out of the way completely. I pulled out the rear end (actually I was swapping rear ends at the time). If doing it solo a floor jack under the tank will help. Run the tank low before changing it. Then undo the line at the fuel filter and run a hose from it to a gas can. Jumper 12 volts to the fuel pump bypass terminal (red wire with a female connector coming out of the wiring loom next to the left strut tower). Disconnect the straps & fuel pump electric connection. You have to rotate the tank while pulling it down to get the fill neck free. I used a new GM LT1 fuel pump. Good luck, Lon.

 

Before you start cutting anything with a dremel or die grinder, just remember that you'r gonna have sparks flying everywhere, and the fuel tank is right underneath. I would try and squeeze a piece of cloth or something from underneath the car between the fuel tank and the body. I did it the long way, took me an entire day by myself. I got the walbro pump and would recommend you to go with the 255 ltr/hr pump since you got a 350. If i was to do it again, i think i would make the trap door, so i can have easy access to it again.

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Pat Hirsz
www.iit.edu/~hirspat/MyPage2.htm
88 305TBI
Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, no cat,SLP 1 5/8" headers and y-pipe March pullies, no smog, 180 thermo,
14x4 K&N, 3.42 gears(open), Ultimate TBI Mods,AFPR,MSD(ignition,coil&wires),Edelbrock TBI Manifold, 190ltr/hr fuel pump,
Eibach springs with KYB's all around,
Centerforce dual friction clutch
Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, fresh paint(black)
120,000 miles, 5spd, T-tops
0-60mph-7.0s-Gteched

92 RS, 305TBI, auto, 3.08 gears, 180 thermo, glasspack (no muffler)

[This message has been edited by 88'camaro305TBI (edited October 10, 2001).]

 

i just used a piece of piano hinge and a little cabinet type latch on the one i did. to keep it from rattling we used a piece of vacuum line with a slit cut in it. whole thing was like $10 and a sawsall blade i think

later
tim

------------------
91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto
New Times Coming Soon!
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299
DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

to make it look even cooler, you could glue a section of the carpet onto the door, so you can see the door. make people think its like an emergency exit

 

Before you go replacing fuel pumps, you should know that the stock fuel pump will feed a 350 if you get bigger injectors and turn up fuel pressure. It feeds my 383 fine.
Now if the fuel pump is dying then replace it.