Which fuel pump?
Which fuel pump?
I need to replace my fuel pump, and am looking for one which can keep up with a modified engine. I need it at the very least to be able to feed my engine as it is, I would prefer it has enough flow to feed it later down the road though, once I have more mods.
Also, I'm looking for a very reasonably priced fuel pump...
Thankyou for your help,
Jordan
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1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element, K&N
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets
-Holley projection Manifold
-670 Holley TBI.
Also, I'm looking for a very reasonably priced fuel pump...
Thankyou for your help,
Jordan
------------------
1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element, K&N
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets
-Holley projection Manifold
-670 Holley TBI.
Well you could do a search...
I have some info here: http://www.transamtemple.com/modific..._pump_swap.htm
Steve
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Steve's Trans Am Temple
I have some info here: http://www.transamtemple.com/modific..._pump_swap.htm
Steve
------------------
Steve's Trans Am Temple
Nice site!
I guess before I go through all of that I should ask if you guys think that my fuel pump is indeed my problem.
Heres whats going on:
-My car has no top end, at all..
-I have a fuel gauge hooked up and when I rev up the engine the pressure will drop as much as 5 psi.
-Also, the highest the pressure will go is about 15psi, but when I rev the engine it will drop to about 7.
I just installed a new fuel filter.
Thanks,
Jordan
I guess before I go through all of that I should ask if you guys think that my fuel pump is indeed my problem.
Heres whats going on:
-My car has no top end, at all..
-I have a fuel gauge hooked up and when I rev up the engine the pressure will drop as much as 5 psi.
-Also, the highest the pressure will go is about 15psi, but when I rev the engine it will drop to about 7.
I just installed a new fuel filter.
Thanks,
Jordan
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 peg leg
15 psi sounds a little high for your 305. I have the Holley 255 LPH TPI pump, which is exactly the same as the Walbro, except it costs more (I found this out after I bought the Holley pump and saw "Made by Walbro" printed on it!). I would get the high pressure Walbro, it will last longer since it will require less amperage to operate under load. Before you replace the pump, you may want to check to see if you are getting a voltage drop. Your Volts should be at least 13V at the pump while the car is at idle. If not, your problem is not the pump.
As far as install goes, it isn't difficult, but can be frustrating. Contrary to what many people say, it isn't necessary to drop out your rear end, although that does make it easier. Also, try to get as much fuel out before you drop start. Here are the steps I would take:
Disconnect Battery, Jack up car as much as possible. USE JACK STANDS!!! Remove panhard rod, heat shield, and exhaust (I used my friend Mr. Hacksaw), lower rear sway bar (?). Unhook fuel lines from tank assembly. This may cause some fuel to siphon out so have a gas can ready to collect it.
Now the fun part. First remove that shroud around the filler neck, as well as the gas cap. After unbolting the straps that hold the tank in, twist the tank so that the top of the tank is facing the rear of the car. This will take a LOT of work an patience. IT is easier if you have a friend how can manipulate the filler neck for you, twisting, etc. until you can pull the tank all the way out. From here, you can follow the directions that come with the pump. Putting the tank back in is REALLY fun, especially if you have a good bit of fuel in there. That's pretty much it. When I have more time, I might write a more involved tech article, but in the mean time, if you need any help. E-mail me, and I'll be more than happy. I know I forgot something here, but this should give you an Idea of the difficulty involved. It will probably take up a good bit of a Saturday, if you've never done it before. Get someone to help you, and BE SAFE around the fuel. I cannot also stress how important it is to use jackstands. Good luck!
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91RS convertible 355 TBI 65# inj. custom compcam grind .480/.480, Edelbrock TBI manifold, open element, hedman hedders, Y-pipe, flowmaster single chamber, cop car chip, Accel coil, wires, vacuum controlled FPR. 2.02/1.6 cast iron heads. Engine specially made by Pflugerville machine shop. Forged bottom end, balanced. Coming soon: , Torque converter, DIY PROM, bigger TB.
As far as install goes, it isn't difficult, but can be frustrating. Contrary to what many people say, it isn't necessary to drop out your rear end, although that does make it easier. Also, try to get as much fuel out before you drop start. Here are the steps I would take:
Disconnect Battery, Jack up car as much as possible. USE JACK STANDS!!! Remove panhard rod, heat shield, and exhaust (I used my friend Mr. Hacksaw), lower rear sway bar (?). Unhook fuel lines from tank assembly. This may cause some fuel to siphon out so have a gas can ready to collect it.
Now the fun part. First remove that shroud around the filler neck, as well as the gas cap. After unbolting the straps that hold the tank in, twist the tank so that the top of the tank is facing the rear of the car. This will take a LOT of work an patience. IT is easier if you have a friend how can manipulate the filler neck for you, twisting, etc. until you can pull the tank all the way out. From here, you can follow the directions that come with the pump. Putting the tank back in is REALLY fun, especially if you have a good bit of fuel in there. That's pretty much it. When I have more time, I might write a more involved tech article, but in the mean time, if you need any help. E-mail me, and I'll be more than happy. I know I forgot something here, but this should give you an Idea of the difficulty involved. It will probably take up a good bit of a Saturday, if you've never done it before. Get someone to help you, and BE SAFE around the fuel. I cannot also stress how important it is to use jackstands. Good luck!
------------------
91RS convertible 355 TBI 65# inj. custom compcam grind .480/.480, Edelbrock TBI manifold, open element, hedman hedders, Y-pipe, flowmaster single chamber, cop car chip, Accel coil, wires, vacuum controlled FPR. 2.02/1.6 cast iron heads. Engine specially made by Pflugerville machine shop. Forged bottom end, balanced. Coming soon: , Torque converter, DIY PROM, bigger TB.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 560
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 peg leg
If you're worried about cutting your exhaust, cut it in a place that would be easy for a shop to weld it together. To make things easy for you, you need to cut as close to the muffler as possible. Or you could use this as an excuse to put in a new exhaust
. I have a flowmaster sitting where the cat is, and a single pipe running out of it to the back, so I don't have to worry about my exhaust getting in the way.
. I have a flowmaster sitting where the cat is, and a single pipe running out of it to the back, so I don't have to worry about my exhaust getting in the way. Thread
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