buy a haynes book

 

gee thanks pal i thought mybe there was a trick to doin it

 

buying a haynes manual really is a good investment. it shows you how to do a lot of stuff. as for the gaskets, disconnect linkage from tbi, unbolt the bolts that hold the intake on and lift. it is pretty easy, it might be stuck on there pretty good though

 

ems2357, you should find some information here

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-ultimate.html

 

I did it 5 times this year... (3 times on One of my L03s because the Intake was bad)

It isnt a bad job. Just time consuming.

Watch out for those metal retainers that hold on the factory gasket, They can pop off and fall into the engine.

Removing the factory gaskets is a PITA. They are stuck on there good.

After that is all gone, Clean all the surfaces good, Use a good RTV ( I like the RIGHT STUFF by permatex) go around the coolant ports, FRont and back wall, Plop the gaskets on, go over the corners with RTV, lay down the intake, Torque all the bolts from the inside out.

 

the only thing im worried about is the distributer

 

what i do is make a mark on the rotor and dizzy body before i pull it out, then just line up those marks the best you can when you put it back in, after that just use a timming gun and set it from there. good luck

 

Well if you have never done an intake before, you might want to have someone who has help you, to make sure you hook everything back up correctly. My best advice would be to label everything as you take them off and or take some pictures of everything while it is still together so you have a reference. As for taking everything off, thats no problem, just disconnect/remove everything attached the intake, take the cap off the distributor and mark where the rotor is somewhere on the car itself with tape or something that isnt going to fall off or rub off and mark the wires themselves, then remove wires from distributor and remove distributor. once you have everything removed and the 12 intake bolts out you will probably need to to pry the front of the intake off with a pry bar or large flat head. Clean up everything really good then reverse the process.

 

The distributor should be of absolutely no problem. Everyone is doing it the wrong way. Look here:

 

Congratulations. You've dug up a post that's been dormant for about fourteen years.

The guy in that video is an idiot. He's claiming that he's got a "billet" distributor, when it's obviously a mostly-machined CASTING, not a "billet". More importantly, he's used the wrong intake manifold gaskets--I can see the blue silicone sealing bead factory-imprinted on the gasket around the intake ports; the intake manifold doesn't even cover the sealing bead. Which means the port size of the gasket is too huge for the intake manifold used; the gasket will almost certainly leak once it's been in-use for awhile.

His fancy red rotor is covered in slime; potentially causing a misfire.

And he never once mentions "static-timing" the distributor using the alignment of the actual teeth of the reluctor and pickup coil.

I'd put the crankshaft at whatever amount of initial advance is desired--perhaps ten or fifteen degrees before TDC-compression stroke, not "0"/TDC. Mesh with the oil pump drive as shown, and loosely assemble but not fully-tighten the distributor hold-down. THEN turn the housing to static-time the distributor. Snug the hold-down. With a little practice, you can get the initial timing within a degree or two of where you want it. You "almost" don't need the timing light.