royslsbry

I have a 92 Camaro tbi 305 when the car warms up it dies in gear.I have no trouble codes.I have no vaccum leaks or intake leaks. Brake booster is good and all vaccum lines are not bent or colasped.I have changed the map, throttle pos,O2sensor,egr valve, IAC, rebuilt the TBIand replace the air temp sensor in the breather. I have replaced the torque converter.Nothing has worked. I have even changed the ecm.When the car is cold and you put it in gear their is no problem.In park the car idles perfect.Driving the car it has plenty of power and doesnt miss or hesitate it dies when you slow down to come to a stop. Starting the car is no problem. I dont know what else could be wrong does anyone have any Ideas?

QuickStyle

i used to have this problem on a Z28 i owned a while back, i never really figured the problem out, but what i did to help it was bump up the idle a bit through the idle adjustment screw, this helped it from dying when i would come to a stop, but it would still die when i moved it from park to drive/reverse IF i was holding the brake, i got used to that by dropping it in gear with no foot on the brake. good luck.

archemedes

ignition module is possible, but usually you get a miss with them.How is your fuel pressure? Does the timing change when warm?

royslsbry

i have adjusted the screw up as well to driveit but i want the car fixed with out having the idle so high i just cant figure out what the heck could cause this unless something is causing it in the transmission
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fuel pressure is good and the timing is fine

QuickStyle

you sound just like me when i got that problem, i must have replaced every single part on the engine... egr,tps,iac,injectors,fpr,plugs,wires,cap,rotor,map,iat,cts,distributor,ignition module. nothing seemed to help, i was so frustrated with the whole thing that i just got used to it. but now looking back on it, it seems like it could have been something with the transmission because the rpms dropped signifacantly when i would put it in gear, they would drop about 300-400 rpm, when they are only supposed to drop 100 or so. when idleing at 800 and putting it in gear it would drop to 400-500rpm and die, i had it idle at 1000 rpm and it would drop to 750 or so, and thats what i kept it at to keep it running, i know it wont fix the problem, just letting you know what i did to help it.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I know you said that you replaced the torque converter, how about the TCC solenoid inside the pan that locks the converter?

Did you unplug the wires that go inside your tranny? It sounds like after your car warms up it is giving the TCC a signal to lock up.

archemedes

and it seems like that was a fairly common problem (thanks for jogging the memory)

royslsbry

i did unhook it but the car still had the same problem i unhooked it first before i replaced the converter maybe i should replace the solenoid and try it I was also wondering if the park neutral switch could cause this

atgrissom21

Check your TPI sensor sometimes it doesn't show up as a trouble code

onfire

royslsbry,

I'm curious to see what is the culprit.

Did you check how much vacuum your motor is producing? There could be a leak somewhere. Check the seal at the front of the mani to the block. If there is some oil leaking that would be an indication of a leak. Do check the back of the mani to the block as well. Just a few ideas.

Do post what you find...


Rabi C.

Decayed312

iTrader: (2)

This may sound totally stupid but just throwing it out there...

i had a 92 camaro had the same exact problem and could never figure out what it was.....one day some guy pulled out and lets just say i dont own a 92 camaro anymore but i saved the engine and am currently in process of rebuilding..

now back to the point of this topic....when i tore apart the engine my timing chain was wayyyyyyyy worn and obviously wayyy loose...different idle speeds occur when shifting gears...which means if your chain is loose provides slop and there for timing was off and come to figure out that was the problem of why it would stall..cus timing was flying all over the place since the chain was soo loose likely hood of thats your problem.. probably not anything to really look into but just throwing it out there

royslsbry

i have checked the timing thats not the prob. the car doesnt have any oil leaks.My next step is to change the tcc solenoid.I should have done this before i replaced the converter.If this isnt the problem I might just pull out the motor and tran and put a 454 and 400 trans in I have or just take a gun and shoot this thing

Were-zombie

I have the same problem with an 87 2.8V6 fuel injected RS. It will start and idle fine, but the minute I put it in gear it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas and keep the RPMs up. It usually drops as soon as it isn't in park and then will die between 700-900 RPM. So far I have replaced the fuel injectors and fuel rail, replaced the distributor, set timing to the exact specs on the diagram( I can't remember them now it has been a few weeks) and I still have the same problem. This sounds really common, but does anyone know of a solutiion?

BLUETA

I have that problem with my TPI. It would die when putting it into gear, or when driving very slowly. I sprayed out the throttle body with carb cleaner, and then into the plunum as far as I could. Then I started it and sprayed more and more as it ran. Seems like something gets carboned up. After a good cleaning, it runs good for about a year. Then it's time to clean again. You might give it a try.

Jason1313

iTrader: (3)

Had a similar problem on a 86 Camaro with the 2.8 V6, I changed the mass air flow sensor and it fixed it.

royslsbry

still not fixed

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

What kind of death are we talking here. Engine idles down until it stops? or engine stops as if the car was turned off. If there is something wrong with the IAC, it can cause some weird stuff to happen, and it wont even throw a code. Unplug your IAC, and put the car in diagnostic mode. Unscrew the IAC from the throttle body. Turn the car on (not the engine) then with the IAC valve out, plug it in (loosely) to the harness. Watch if it moves, moves smoothly, moves the right direction and moves at a fair pace.

It's most likely not that, but It can just be a hidden culprit sometimes. To me, it really sounds like the trans is putting too much drag on the engine. When you shift it, does the car jolt forward like normal before it dies?

royslsbry

i have done this to and reset the iac and no help. and the car doesnt just die it like gasps for air and i hear the injectors slow down the car does seem to run rich

royslsbry

car dies like a stick when u dont give it any gas and let the clutch out

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

And if you goose it a little, it'll start going?

royslsbry

yes it does also my vss sensor is bad could this be the problem
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only way i have kept it from dieing is turn up the idle screw to 1500 rpms

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Might as well replace the VSS sensor if it's screwing up. It's cheaper than a torque converter and you can do it without jacking the car up, unless it's lowered. But it's a ton easier if you jack it up lol. When you say it does it when your engine is warmed up, do you mean like 195-220 degrees? or around 115-120 degrees.

royslsbry

i replaced the vss today and my speedo still doesnt work car still dies and i have replaced the torque converter and the tcc solenoid no help. the car dies after it runs about ten mins.temp is around 160. i have a new intake cts as well and i have also changed the mat sensor in the breather.I have traced down every wire in the wiring harness to make sure something wasnt shorted have found no bad wires other than the fan switch isnt hooked up someone wire the fan directly to the ignition they put a fuse on it. today i tried to fix the speedo by checking the speed buffer and changed it out no help to the speedo i even switched the gauge cluster and that speedo didnt work either.this can has one prob after another and im loosing my patience.

royslsbry

so i have worked on this car for 6 wks and it still dies in gear the speedo doesnt work fuel gauge is broke im going broke and when i bought this car i said ahh there isnt much wrong with it I can fix it easily boy am i biteing my words on that in six weeks all i have got to work is the heater and the tach and oil guage bypassed the vats and put a new key switch in
I think someone put voodoo on this one but i have learned more about camaros than i ever wanted to

royslsbry

heres something else i did put a vaccum guage on it read about 16 put it in gear it fell to 4 went back to 6 and died

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

looks like you have a vacuum leak.. somewhere...

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Well I realize that all those parts are not cheap, and they deffinitely add up quickly. If you replaced the VSS, and the speedometer still doesn't work, and you've replaced the ECM, there is something wrong in the wiring.

Might I suggest to you, that you sell this car (maybe switch back the working parts and get some extra money back) and then sell this car, and buy a new one? I'm sure you can get a nice car with a 350 that runs. If thats not an option, sleep on it. If it's still not an option by this weekend, then whip out your multimeter and find out why your speedo isn't getting a signal. I just wouldn't want you to waste any more time and money on these things, considering they're going down in value at the time and will continue to (especially '92) until it hits a certain age. Remember, your time isn't free either.

royslsbry

ok tell me where cause i cant find it

royslsbry

im begining to believe the problem is in the prom chip i think im going to buy an aldl cable and see what it does. the speedo prob is prob a bad gauge. I may end up pulling the tbi off and carb it i was trying to fix the car up for my daughter for her birthday who is about to be 16 next month and time is runing out.plus i dont quit that easily I bought the car because the other owner could figure it out either. far as the multimeter i had it out today and had good voltage at on ct 437 but the gauge has never worked so i dont know if its bad or the buffer i switched is bad but my code 24 did clear out and hasnt came back on so im assuming it is the gauge. The car looks good it has new paintjob blue with white stripes and if i cant get the bugs out i may just buy her another car and put a 454 motor in the car and make a street and strip car out of it. I think mainly why i am having so much trouble is my 66 mustang has coursed me for putting her on the back burn to work on this headache

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Moving to the TBI forum.

royslsbry

after messing with this car for 7 weeks I have finally found the problem to my car dieing in gear I noticed one day my radiator hose didnt have any pressure on it and i checked in the radiator and noticed it was blowing bubbles so i determined I had a blown head gasket I would have never believed it because it had no signs didnt stumble or miss or have water in the oil but after replacing the gaskets car doesnt die in gear anymore and my radiator hoses have pressure and quit blowing bubbles and my vaccum pressure went up

RFmaster

Wow - that's a tough one to solve!!!

ntomsheck

iTrader: (1)

Well that's excellent. I'm glad you got it running.

royslsbry

i havent got the speedo working yet but a least I figured out the dieing and I still can't believe it was the head gasket I still can't understand why there was no power loss or miss who would have known but from now own you can bet I will do a compression check

gavin.priestley

Schurkey

This is the Throttle Body Injection forum.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Well, you need fuel and spark . I'd say if you can verify having enough of one of them the problem is likely the other

gavin.priestley

Well considering how I still have the ECM connected, I didn't know if that maybe had to do with why I'm having the problem I'm having.

gavin.priestley

I have spark and fuel. This is so weird man like its crazy. Such a simple setup yet I'm sure its something small.

Schurkey

It's not possible to have the ECM connected if there's no injectors to control, and no TPS sending info down the wire harness.

Do you still have the small-diameter computer-controlled HEI distributor, or is that gone, too? If the distributor is non-computer-controlled, the ECM also has no RPM information.

So, no, you don't have the ECM connected.

Test for fuel and spark immediately AFTER the engine has died.
Wild Guess: Faulty ignition module due to faulty ignition coil.
Second Guess: Faulty pickup coil
Third Guess: Improper fuel pressure flooding carb. What are you using to regulate the ~15 psi in-tank fuel pump to the 5--6--7 psi that the carb needs?

gavin.priestley

Thomas Mcquirt

I have same problem how can I tell which TCC Solenoid it is looks like there is 2 different types for this car 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS 5.0 automatic