I know code 32 has to do with EGR, and that 54 has to do with the fuel pump circuit. This maybe related to other issues Ive had:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...tml?highlight=

(read first posts for issues)

Now this did the same as mentioned before; SES came on while cruising, operating temp, and with A/C on... But at least this time I was able to get codes...

For code 54 Ive read that it can possibly be the fuel pump relay, opinions?

Can I get some direction here? I really need this car tip-top, it is my DD and only means of transportation. Ive been trying to get this figured out forever, I sure hope someone can help. Thanks in advance...

 

Anyone?

More; The car seems to have much more power cold, vs operating tem...

 

Any input? Any...

 

interesting my car seems to throw a code 32 even after i replaced the EGR valve, it came on again last night when it was warm and on the freeway, gonna see if i get the 54 code like urs

I was on my way to class today and i smashed the gas two seconds later i took off, im not sure if it was burning out, or was stumbled cuz the stereo was up. But it felt like it stalled or something, fuelish problem it felt like :/.

 

Just like you said 32=EGR and 54 fuel pump circuit.For 32 check to make sure vacuum hose to EGR solenoid is not restricted and that it is connected.For 54 either fuel pump or relay is going bad.Hope this helps.

 

Well I should have asked; could the EGR have caused all of those problems? Are they all related in some way to the EGR? Ive read the EGR diagnose article, so I will do as it says... Can I get some pics of the its location?

Where is the relay for the FP? Could have running out a fuel throw this code? I cut it real close the day it threw that code. I know that running the gas too low can cause FP failure, but Ive had no issues since...

 

Stand in front of your car, look at the air filter to the left of it and by the firewall is the location of it. It will be on the intake manifold.

Id change the fuel filter, from what ive known from experience, running the car below the 1/4 tank level increases sediment pickup pushed through the pump and destroys the fuel filter pretty quickly, so every time im low on cash and run the car low i swing by autozone and pick up a new filter when i can fill up again, and defiantly feel a difference how the car runs.

 

Thanks for the info! I will get a new relay and fuel filter as soon as I get the cash I didnt know, but Id say its less than a 1/4 tank 99% of the time its driven :O

Could a dirty filter actually cause the ECM to throw the code?

 

Well its something Fuel related thats why you have the code, filter is the cheapest, easiest and probably needs it anyways. Change it out, drive around the block, reset the ecm "disconnect batt", and if the code pops again, then round 2 begins.

 

Would this have anything to do with the EGR system. Because I'm pretty sure its a completely different system. Unless of course running lean caused it.... Hmm makes you think...

 

You can check the EGR valve to see if its working, there is a diaphragm on it, start the car, push down on it to make it move, if it moves thats a good sign, if it don't move its probably full of carbon. You should hear your engine run erratically when you do this. If you get nothing out of it, probably a dead egr valve.

 

When you told me the location; were you referring to the EGR or FP relay? What is the location of both?

Can I use something like SeaFoam DeepCreep the clean the EGR? I used to do this on my past vehicles...

 

That was the location of the EGR, Ive never personally used sea foam, i just soaked mine in carb cleaner, took a small screw driver , removed the carbon, slapped a new gasket on, worked good as new, if the diaphragm is trashed, id recamend replacing the EGR valve, for the FP relay i have no clue where that is at this moment.

 

Ok Ive cleaned the EGR, and I know Ive done something right. When I took it off and tried to press it down, I couldnt get it to move. So then I grabbed a driver and pushed the valve, and it barely moved. I of course didnt know how much resistance I should have. So I sprayed some cleaner all in it and over it (and into the intake). Let it soak, and then after cleaning and spaying a few times it moved sooo much easier. So I know that its at least better off and possibly fixed.

Now Im still wondering about that FP code. At least I could replace the relay. Only if I knew where it was.

And as for power cold vs hot, Im guessing closed loop operation and that maybe when open kicks in its that the O2 sensors are dirty. Can they be cleaned? Any input? (I may have that backwards so please correct if so)

 

When the engine is cold tolerances are tighter which will cause more power, and worst fuel economy, when it warms up the metal will expand causing less power and better fuel economy.

When i start up and just take off without even pressing the gas i can cruise to 20-30 no problem, once it gets 1/4 way up on the temp gauge its no longer like that, so id assume it has something to do with the loop.

Id replace the Relay first since im sure it would be cheaper and the fuel pump wont be fun so id save that for last.


Here is a pic of where the fuel pump relay could be, im in class so i cant bust out the manul and check for you, but this is for a 95 camaro, hopefully its in the same spot, ive also seen pics of it on the drives side by the master cylinder.

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg


Lemme know how it goes, im sure ill have to replace my relay someday

 

Not there, at least that I can see. I have the Haynes but of course it doesnt say sh@t about much. Can you give me some direction with your manual. Yeah I already planned to do the relay first, for that very reason. I just cant find the damn thing. Thanks rough, always to the rescure

 

Under hood, driver side, rear engine area, mounted on upper firewall, when i get home ill try and take a picture.
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driver side of master cylinder, mounted on firewall

 

Whoa.. Lmao

Thanks man! Prob get it replaced tomorrow.

 

the zone has one, i think i might change mine out just because it will be one less thing to do someday
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

only 13$
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Good deal! I hear though that AZ electronics are a hit and miss. What do think about that? If your set on buying one then Id keep the new one as a back up in the trunk compartment...

 

Ive really never had a problem with parts Ive bought from the zone plus for every 100$ i spend i get 20$ back and ya cant beat that . Plus there warranty's are fair. But im sure you could hit up napa or something

 

That is all hear say of course but if it were the case, and possibly still, it would be worth the extra $2 rather than risk relay failure in BFE...

That AZ thing is a little more complicated than that. It must be 20 each time and cannot be compbined with other purchases. Also a 60 purchace only counts as one purchase above 20. For example; puchases; 20 20 40 60 20 = 100 - because each one only counts as 20. Unless of course only FL is getting fukt...

 

tru this isnt there duralast brand thou so id trust it more Reviews on sorensen product are pretty decent

 

And you would likely get that same one at napa. So good point.

 

certain brands like duralast and accel i do stay away from, they do carry some good after market brands sometimes.

 

Accel??? I thought they were up there with MSD and Malory. Of course I know were talking about another component but....

 

i know there not from experience. After i bought my car i bought accell 8.8 mm wires, and distributor, 1 month later wires started to arc all over the place causing misfires so bad it would kill my car. and they were wired up and hung. The caps brass plugs for the wires fell out and had burn marks on them. Sucked it up bought some msd 8.5's and cap and havent had a problem for over a year. Both products bought from autozone.

 

Thats some good info to know thanks for sharing that. I dont like wasteing what little money ever comes my way