i have a 90 camaro rs 305...
i can get the car to crank and start then die...
if i feather the gas itll run but if i just put my foot on the gas and stay in one position the car with get a lil gas then die...ive replaced the fuel filter and iac...ive tested the fuel pump, throttle position sensor, ignition module...and ive cleaned the injectors... can someone please help me figure out whats going on i have no idea and ive been researching for almost a month now and cant find anything....

also when i pump the gas its as if it gets a small burst of gas as the throttle is his and then another small burst as the throttle is being let off....i do have to pump it pretty quickly but have noticed that...

 

what does the injector spray pattern look like? did you ohm out the injectors? the should ohm out to ~1.2 ohms IIRC, how does your distributor look? cap and rotor good? plugs and wires?

 

i think the spray pattern on one is ok and on the other it may not be so good...they ohmed out to 1.6 and 1.4...yeah distributor looks good and im getting spark fine....could the one injector be causing it to not even run though?

 

only one injector firing could cause problem, is your SES light on?

 

as far as i can tell its not on...it flashed on once or twice since ive been working on it but its off most of the time...and i know one injector being bad could be a problem but i figured the car would just run like crap if that was the only problem....im gonna go check the oil pressure switch right now

ok so i guess the injectors are spraying pretty good...i jumped the oil pressure wire and that didnt make a diference bu the fuel pump ran the whole time so i believe that to be working correctly....but if i spray carb cleaner in the intake the car will continue to run so im pretty sure its a fuel delivery problem im just not sure what else it could be considering the fuel pump has 12psi and it stayed there...is there a way to test the ecm? and i tested the tps with an ohm meter and it seems to be fine

 

is that 12 psi with the gauge on a deadend or on a "T"? if the 12 PSI is on a deadend you probably need a new pump, if its on a "T" then your probably fine.

how much fuel can you see going into the engine? alot? if you can see alot of fuel going in, alot being a well defined cone, then your getting too much fuel, at idle, on my L03 you can barely see the fuel going into the motor most of what I see is hitting the throttle plates.

 

if i remember right i was using the autozone fuel pressure test kit which i just put it on the line somewhere and reconnected the line on the other side of the connector... i think im just gonna go get the test kit along with another fuel pump real quick retest it and if it doesnt test out good then just replace the pump...and the spray pattern on both injectors is good i checked again....i cant get it to idle really so all i see is cones when it shoots out a burst of gas

ok i just decided to replace the fuel pump....didnt solve the issue however...is there any possible way to test the ecm?

 

you might be able to test the ecm if you have a link cable, but I'm not completely sure.

 

ok so now im totally at a loss....i went and got a computer from a junk yard today and that didnt fix the problem either....what the hell else could be stopping the car from running/idling?

 

Fonzi

If you feed fuel into TB keeps your engine running then mostly you have fuel delivery issue.

1) Verify Fuel pressure - stock TBI needs about 13PSI to be happy.

2) Just because pump is operating it does not mean that you have enough pressure and fuel volume to supply injectors. It is very common for the fuel hose inside gas tank to rapture and dramatically reduce fuel volume and pressure.

3) Swapping ECM's is a last resort option. Verify that your ECM passes POST test when you cycle ignition key from off to run position. SES light should be solid on - blink off - turn solid on until engine fires up. You can pull trouble codes with a paper clip by jumping pin A & B of the ALDL connector. Please read a sticky.

4) Since you have replaced IAC you have to reset it. There is a sticky in technical articles how to do that.

Above all else - do not despair. Just follow through the check list and verify critical parameters.

//RF

 

Ok so before i replaced the fuel pump the old one was at 10-12 psi....i now have a brand new pump in there so that means that is cant be the pump or the hose...i also replaced the filter so it cant be that either...so next in line would be the injectors/ecm as far as what ive read so far....i went to a junk yard bought a working ecm and popped it in and that didnt fix the problem either...

ive already pulled the codes and i got i believe code 22 and code 53?..the second code was high voltage at battery (i believe that second code is bc i thought my battery was dead so i charged it over night)

any suggestion on what i should do for code 22?...i tested to TPS with a volt meter and it didnt jump at all...does that mean its good or could it still be bad?

and alright ill reset that iac and see what that does....

now when my cylinders filled with gas i tryed to start the car and it cracked a starter...could it be possible that the motor jumped timing at the same time as the starter cracking?...because the night before it cracked the car would at least run and stay idling but when you tried to drive it the motor would do what it does now...you would have to feather the gas to keep the car moving... the only difference between now and then is i replaced the o-rings on the injectors bc one was crushed (replaced the night before just didnt seat right) and the other new parts ive put in. since then the car drove fine once then that night is when i had to start feathering the gas to keep the car moving...then the next day it wouldnt even idle and the only way i could keep the motor running was to keep feathering the gas