So the past few days the RS has been having problems trying to idle. Everything else is fine, you rev it and it feels like normal, yet it does not want to idle at all. I got it running fine the past few days by letting it rough idle for a bit and it would get back to normal but it never stops. I tested the tps and its fine. Could it be the IAC? I unplug it and replug and nothing happends. I tried to find its resistance on my multi-meter but nothing (Found an article saying to test it via that way). I mean it was running fine when It went into the garage for 3 months now for body work. I did not start it until about 4 weeks ago. Nothing was messed with.

Also Injectors spray patern is fine as well, no leaks that I can notice. Should I try replacing the IAC? Here is a video I recorded of the idle problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DwsxXNyG_4

It would idle like the ending for a bit and sometimes grab itself and idle normally like yesterday. Unplugging the tps would make it idle a bit higher and surging would become a bit faster.

I know this problem is sometimes common, so feel free to give sugguestions, also as for the revving in the video, that was the 4th video I took and I got pissed off that just sitting there caused a problem.



Update:

Alright so today with some experimenting I unplugged the tps and map and to my surprise it idled fine. I plug in the tps and of course the idle goes down but it stalled on me. Second try plugging in the tps it idled fine then plugging in the MAP it would bog and eventually stall. So are both gone or what? Here is a video of it. I really need to get it running to take it down the street to paint it.

Sorry for the bad sound, phone is crap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW_1QQZ3KoU

 

Found out it was the Map.

Unplugged it and it runs fine now, the problem might be that someone ghetto mounted it with a small hose and then uses a L bigger rubber hose for the nipple on the sensor. Is that how it is or what? Where does the hose plug into anyways? That is from the Map to where.


Thanks,
Carlos

 

It goes to the back of the throttle body. And it is supposed to be a small hose with the end a little bigger to fit to the MAP. It should be the same on the TB side also.

 

Are these correct? I might go and get some better hose since the end to the Map was worn and can get loose right away. All the vehicles I have worked with with a map had a more beefier cable, let me know if its normal! Here are the pictures.

Here is the end to the Map which is this skinny:



It had something similar to this that connects to the Map, it also had a ziptie to get a air tight seal.



This is the end to the TBI:

 

bump updated main post, gonna go get some more map sensors that we have a stash off and find a working one.

 

Yes that is correct. Mine is the same way. I think if you use a different size you will screw up the readings. Mine was so decreped when I moved it slightly it cracked in half. Bought replacement hose at store and used the same end attachments from the original.

 

It works with the MAP disconnected? I would check for the most common problem...your fuel pressure. I was chasing ghosts thinking it was a computer controlled problem, turned out it was the little hose (wrong type of hose) connecting the fuel pump.

It would run horribly, then unplug the MAP and it would run fine. You're putting it in "limp-home" mode.

 

how do you mean the wrong type of hose? did you change out your fuel pump then the idle started acting up? im chasing the same idle surge this guy is, one minute it might idle perfect then up and down even stalls out

 

The car was running fine when I started my body work, then 2 months later I tried starting it and it would idle horribly. Nothing touched nothing moved. Right now I am replacing the o2 sensor and map, if thats not it, then fuel pump time it is.

 

we swaped out the 305 4 a 350 changed the fuel pump and now we have the same idle surge as you so im lost. ran fine before

 

It was a hose not rated for high pressure or fuel. It turned soft and tore. After I took the pump out, replaced the little hose. The pump works perfectly (ACdelco TPI pump). I used a hose rated for 50+ psi.

After the pump went in, it still didn't run (thought it was seized from sitting). I broke the starter solenoid. Replaced that. Still wouldn't turn over. Somehow the distributor was turned 90* ATDC (I forgot to mark it's original location and set it wrong). After I did that, the car fired up and purred.

I've come to learn with these third gens, fuel pressure should be checked FIRST. My Camaro AND Firebird died at the same time. Both fuel related. Camaro's pump actually died since it was the original.

 

So now, it does not start at all, with some extra fuel at the TBI it does. So now it has turned into a fuel problem.

First thing is, Injectors, is their spray patern supposed to be the same at all times? When starting its patern is as mixed and uneven as it can be. After I start it with some fuel at the TBI it will run fine and patern seems normal when you hold the throttle a bit. Granted I only did that for about 5 secs before letting it idle where it dies right away. So should I try the fuel filter and then the fuel pump itself or can the injectors be in this problem as well?

 

If your injectors are spraying a nice cone pattern, then they should be fine (might drip a little due to low pressure). Change the fuel filter, check your pressure regulator (my spring rusted and broke into pieces and I thought that was the problem), and then the fuel pump.

I spent about $75 in other parts, when I should have just checked the fuel pressure first. Was at 3 psi. Since I got the hose for free, I could have had a nice Firebird for only $300. Now that it's sat for a year, I have to buy more parts.

 

It was the injectors.

I was bolting on the front end after resanding it and a neighbor came by and we started talking about what has been done and when I told him the problems he automatically said its a fuel problem and said the injectors look kinda eh. He came back and brought some extra injectors he had from his Caprice Classic and we cleaned them up and put them in, and what do you know it ran.

This is very weird, Is there a precaution to do when putting these cars into storage? I mean after the L05 swap it ran fine but was left inside for about 5 months and became very dusty, when it was time to come out same thing happened as it did now.

 

we got new injectors in it and its still something eles doing it

 

Have you gotten any codes off it? Mine right now still gives a code for the o2 sensor and tps which I fixed yesterday.

 

come on, pulling codes is so damn easy on these cars. that's the first thing you should do really, even before posting here

 

I am unfamiliar with these cars. How do I go about pulling codes?????

 

Put a jumper wire (or paper clip) between the A and B terminals (top right corner is A, B is to the left) in the ALDL connector. Turn the key to the ON position (don't crank the engine), wait for the Check Engine light to flash...will flash once, pause, then flash twice more. That is code 12, it lets you know the computer is communicating. It will do that three times, then it will start the trouble codes.

 

Alright small update to add to my frustration list. Today, tried to start the car to move it a car spot over in the garage to have alot of room on the driver side (1 car door size for a 2 car size garage). This time though when I tried to start the car, it would not start for the life of me. It would crank and crank but nothing, So I went for my trusty starting fluid and tada fired up, even with the Map plugged in (No tps, tps is bad). This time though not like before, it would really not accept revving her at all. Before when the idling was rough, it would still feel normal and strong as ever when you stepped on it.

This is seriously pissing me off, I am 99.9% sure its fuel related and hoping its not the fuel pump. Sad thing is, testing it would require me to buy tools which is what a OE pump would cost .

So what do you guys think? Should I go out and buy a new fuel regulator and filter or just say screw it and try a new pump? I can hear what I would guess would be the pump when I put it onto the On position before cranking, it will only do it every 5 secs between each keyturn. Is that it or no?

Also, I was recommended to get the TPI version of the pump, Which I would assume would be the same engine size version of the TPI? Autozone says the regular TBI pump is rated at 35 gallons per hour vs 40 for the TPI (Same stats for 5.0/5.7) and 12-17 psi vs 65-95 psi? Whats up with that.

Well I should get back to my body work but I know I have some headaches ahead of me after I am done and need to get her running again.

 

It's more than likely a fuel problem. My pump was still fine, but the rubber hose inside the tank was split and gooey. It is most likely that, and happens often. I did get a new pump just to be sure, and have it as a backup even though the original pump is a newer TPI ACDelco pump. The worst thing for cars, besides salty roads/climate, is sitting.

Are you sure the TPS is bad? Have you tested it with a voltmeter?

But hey, if you don't figure this out any time soon...I'm moving to the Chicagoland area probably next year, maybe sooner!

 

Tps was tested with a voltmeter and it was very jumpy and off alot most of the time. I am getting a new one this weekend hopefully, I had a friend acquire me about 5-7 of em from yards and all of em were dead/bad. It is kinda sad that just sitting there caused this.

I got codes off the car and it gave 22, 23, and MAP code. I know 22 is TPS, but what is 23?

Edit: Never mind, found out what it is.

Well I will try to get the body work done and then fix this problem in the next few days.

 

The codes were most likely stored after you unplugged the sensors and it ran for awhile. Did you ever reset the ECM and recheck it?

 

Yep, I reset it about 4 days ago and ran it for 2 days and checked it yesterday. Sad thing is, it had about a full tank of gas, its almost gone through half of it in those times.

 

Hmm...MAT, MAP, and TPS...original ECM? Could also be bad wiring, like a loose ground wire. When it comes to the ECM, I'm a bit lost (ironic since I was training to be an aviation electronics tech in the Navy). I would go over the wiring and make sure you didn't do anything while doing your body work. Any mice or other rodents?

I'm still leading towards fuel problem. Car should run with sensors not working, putting itself in "limp-home" mode. And could be misleading even if they are not working properly. Still check the wiring and what-not, but the fact it doesn't run now without starting fluid makes me go with fuel delivery.

I could be very wrong, and hopefully someone with more ECM/FI knowledge will jump in. I'm still learning the whole fuel injection and computer-controlled aspect of cars.

 

Yep all original. No no rodents besides annoying uncles.

The problem is getting worse, Before with a small spray of starting fluid it would start up right away, now it won't and backfires through the TBI, big puff of white smoke. So I decided to just leave it be until I finish my body work which I should be done by today.

I really want to go rent a gauge tester from Autozone and see if its the fuel pump or the injectors again or regulator. I wonder how much they charge, I understand the money is refunded but in the end if its around the same price as the fuel pump, might as well just replace it for safety and peace of mind.

 

Well got the Pump today and TBI rebuild kit which includes all new gaskets and regulator. I am currently finishing sanding my body work and I should atleast have the rear end dropped by tonight. I also plan to give the rear end a good cleaning and a shot of POR-15. Also got a brand new MAP sensor, and TPS is being installed/tweaked when the pump is replaced.

Wish me luck, Hopefully this fixes it.

 

i would have rather advised you to invest in proper tooling and solving/finding the actual problem instead of throwing parts at it. good luck anyways

 

TBI Fuel pressure tester is around $45-$60. My father had a good amount of credit on his Autozone Rewards card that he forgot about and in the end I only paid the Pump and Strainer from his credits. Which was $66 in the end. I will be investing in that tool soon though but not for a while. If Injectors need to be replaced for the 3rd time, I have a 3rd good pair in the garage.

 

good luck

 

So I have been pump hunting and found one I was gonna pick up yesterday but my uncle told me he had a working pump from his 94 Chevrolet Blazer and looking at the pump it looks like its compatible. The only thing is the pump is 3.5x as strong as the OE version.

Originally I was gonna pick up a 5.7l caprice pump part number E3268 which is rated at 45-55 gph and 15-25 psi which is a slight upgrade from the oe pump which is rated for 35gph and 12-17 psi. The pump I can get for free is rated at 50-60gph and 80-90 psi.

I know the regulator will cut it down to the needed psi but would it really be safe? I understand alot of tbi users like to switch to the tpi pump and figured it would be ok but just want to make sure. I could save the $50 and just pick up a new strainer and maybe pick up a 4th gen rear end instead.

 

I am running a Walbro 255 pump on my 89 Tbi motor.

 

Get the TPI pump.

 

change the fuel filter.. $10 fixed my same problem... under rear driver side

 

The pump I got was similar if not better than a TPI pump from a 95 4WD Blazer. I also forgot to update that well its running again, it was 100% in-tank problem. It could of been the actual hose that goes from the pump to the in-tank assembly though since it was very enlarged and squishy. Who knows but shes running as strong as ever. I also had to hack the exhaust off and well it sounds awesome to say the least. Too bad I can't drive it til my panhard bars and brace bolts get here.

Heres a video, and yes I am mexican. Yea the ones stealing your jobs and causing the recession. Don't mind the random talking, its just me saying I am as broke as my uncle and cant afford a ice cream.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_5TBa0jT0g