meant to say they were 1 1/2 primaries not 1 5/8

 

so no input from anyone i take it? ah... well good news i got a battery today gonna be starting the car tomorrow. ill post anything tomorrow if i have any new issues as far as odd noises

 

car runs now. its definitely a posi rear. not sure sure about the 4.10s as i havent driven it for a long period of time except for a small burnout. still needs an alternator which i have ordered. its also got not coolant flow because of the fact it has no alternator but as far as the cooling system itself nothing leaks.

 

i figured out my problem after a load of money spent at junkyard for computer and 305 throttle body new iac, map sensor and esc. i went back to the drawing board and just thought what would cause erratic idle on a carb. engine and i came up with rocker arms to tight and BINGO as readjust the rocker arms the idle smooth out thanks for all the input

 

I am not going to slam you for doing a TBI build. As a matter of fact I am in the planning stages for a 327 TBI build with a T56 swap. Now I just need the car, the funds and my tools

 

well my engine is just about done as of today. i got everything on it that it needed. its got a 120 amp one wire alternator. the headers are on and i put new plugs in it along with msd plug wires that i scored from the salvage yard off a camaro for 8$ i also put the o2 sensor in. i started it up no check engine light or anything. still a little loud because of the exhaust not being bolted up. it smokes a little from the valve covers but thats because it needs an oil breather. once i fix the oil sending unit oil breather and the exhaust bolted to it then i can start on phase two of the build :-)

 

Hay Andrew, Welcome to TGO. First thing I would say is that your rear end gearing isn't optimal for your engine. I would go down to 3:42 gears if I were you.

Here are some public posts (you’ll have to cut through the opinionated and engine swap crap), but there is some good stuff in here. #1 rule, don’t get anything you can’t swap over to a 350 or 383 or sell later on. #2, Go cheap on the 305. Don’t put a $50 dollar saddle on a $20 horse is the common saying.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/626560-evaluate-305-tbi-build.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/622480-just-want-200hp.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/power-adder/622784-looking-get-high-power.html

And TGO Official posts. Ultimate TBI parts one and two, plus how to make a dual snorkel air cleaner.

https://www.thirdgen.org/ultimatetbi

https://www.thirdgen.org/ultimatetbi2

https://www.thirdgen.org/dualsnorkel


And these are my suggestions:

1. Open Air Element (Cleaner) or alternative cold air intake
2. New headers back exhaust system
3. TBI Computer Chip or tune (take in consideration what heads you have)
4. 180* Thermostat swap
5. Sticky performance tires (Nitto NT555 or similar tire would be best for street)
6. Edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold
7. 3.42 gears and a posi rear end
8. Corvette Shift Kit and Servo (if you have an auto)
9. Ultimate TBI mods
10. Wider Aftermarket Rims (like 17X10rear and 17X8front are best IMO)

Hope this helps!
-SKELITOR

 

 

thanks skelitor!!! thats a lot of really great information. i will definitely come back to that as i go along!!! i cant believe how smoothly it runs in the car and outside how it shakes.

does anyone have bad exp with solid motor mounts? i have these on my car from the old owner. i see different thoughts from everyone so what do you all think?

i will try to figure out this youtube to get a vid of it up it seems that they have significantly changed it around since i last used it.

my next thing will be the wiring..... :/ ... i dont have anything in the accessory position my vats is disabled and i dont have any key buzzer noise(flatline) and i also want to see if my check engine light has been messed with because i havent noticed it on before. and im sure that before i fixed her it didnt have an o2 sensor and sensors were unplugged

 

does anyone know where i could find some pipe to go over my axel? i dont know what i should for for the axel back i have everything for the exhaust so far up to the axel just need some bent tube. anyone know a website that sells a prebent 2.5 inch?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Walker-47572-E...ar=1&carId=001

 

i wish i could say that is what i need but its not :/ i want to run 2.5 inch exhaust i have enough pipe but its just the axel area thats awkward if need be ill order the stock intermediate pipe

 

Those headers are part of a 'kit' from Edelbrock, I believe your need the extension pipes and crossover. Here is the install guide with part numbers maybe you can call Edelbrock and ask them if you can get what you need.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...6000/68723.pdf

 

thanks but i no longer am worried about these edelbrocks. they had the emissions tubes cut off and welded shut. i bought a flowtech y pipe and header kit through my work and saved about 60$!! :-)

 

as far as over your axle i just hooked up a obx 3" cat back stainless exhaust . heres a link to my page with sound clip ...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...t-obx-cat.html

 

that sounds nice but a cat back isnt in my budget. which is why im trying to piece together something with 2.5 inch pipe i got a 4 foot section from summit for 18$ i got a few elbows im going to put together and see if they fit. hopefully they do so i can get the exhaust together

 

when i get her


and here she is now, i am very happy with the way it looks. i still need to clean up the pulleys an paint them i also need to repaint that passenger valve cover up close the yellow came back through it and intake needs to be cleaned up.



does anyone know what i can do for the wiring harness? it so close to my engine and to the alternator i dont like the way it looks and it lets to many wires lay against my header and plug wire then my interior lights start acting weird :/

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNfudlQUQkw
heres a video of it running. it may sound terrible in the video but thats because its open headers and my camera phone isnt too good

 

i ordered the ac delete box from hawks. talk about over price stuff. 149 is a little much in my opinion for some molded fiberglass. but anyway i bought it because i need it. after that the engine bay once i wire the radiator fans up will be complete

 

i also just ordered the kyb gr2 rear shocks. ill be putting them on at the same time as my exhaust system and i might replace my fuel pump while the rear end is out just for added safety. what do you guys think?????

and i guess ill keep talking to myself :P

 

flowtech headers and the msd plug wires. they are a little to long and lay against the primarys


some new toys


old shocks vs new shocks

 

Im still listening don't worry lol,

The motor sounds healthy and you can tell you've come a good ways with it,

Maybe fab up a wire loom to keep the wires off the primaries?

Its looking Good so far

 

well thanks im glad to hear some feedback on what someone else things.

i never thought of that with the wire looms, ill definitely have to look into that.

i have a few new things i have figured out that does not work.
oil gauge
water gauge

where does everyone elses volts gauge stay at? i have a 120 amp one wire on and im only right above the 13 and when i roll down windows the volts pull a little and sometimes its got hard starting...

anyone have any input on that?

and i got a headlight motor rebuild kit so i can fix both of my motors!!!

 

My gauge stays right around 13 when idling, which is fine because you know your charging

When I roll my windows up or down is when it drops, but I don't have hard starting, atleast I don't think I do.

The wire loom is easy to fab, or you can buy the type that bolts ontop of the valve covers, only because I like those lol

 

ok great so i know the alternator is working. i got it for a good price. i went onto ebay and found one with pretty good reviews and feedback. i will have to remove my starter and have it tested

i think all i need for my gauges to work properly is possibly some new sending units

 

does anyone know if i could run a single flow muffler straight from the y pipe?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-50252FLT/

would this fit? the y pipe has all the stock bends to it and has that offset type of bend to it where it stops by the door.

 

Yup, if it comes to replacing the gauge itself you can get them cheap on here from people parting out cars, I bought a few single gauges on here for about 5 bucks a piece plus shipping, not back for stock gauges.

 

hey on those wires (msd right??) take and grab them from the middle out. bend up slightly and see if they stay. some of the msd wires with the long boots were formable to a slight extent.

 

yes they are the msds i will try this when i get the chance. what about my other question????? does anyone know if that will fit?

 

I changed the straight boots on mine to 90* boots for just that reason. Plus, the 90* boots work nicely when routing below the headers. It's easy to do if you have a crimp tool.

 

.... I HAVE A CRIMP TOOL!!! i will put my 90* boots from my old plugs onto these then. i think im going to stick with the exhaust out the back for the sake of not having the inside smell like exhaust at idles and stand stills in traffic... does anyone have any clue what size the bolts are for that panhard bar underneath? the largest socket i have is a 19

 

to anyone out there i have a 91 camaro 3.1 tbi v-6 and here my problems its only runing on 5 cyl because when i plug in the 6 injector plug it dies now the book i have all the books and iam not to bad at this **** ive try just about everything and i have replace everything i even put my own wires in for the ground to the brain and i replace the brain also i know it some kind of power shortage but i cant figur it and it doest matter what injector plug wire i undo my injector are good and co is my injector harness is good my hots are good from the injector plug to the fuse box and so are ny grounds to the brain but something is cause in power loss for my 6 injector and remenber it runs fine on any 5 cly thanks vgeorge9215

 

i am loving this car!!! i went to check on it today and see what parts i still need. i found out that i think my water pump might not be working and i also have a leaky overflow tank for the radiator and i also need a fitting for the top of my water pump. then honestly that is the last of the engine work besides an air cleaner. it starts right up on the turn of the key.

 

Hope you didn't go with the Flowtech- you'd be better served by a Thrush glasspack. A scant few bucks more but it has a perforated core and flows double what the Flowtech does.

Also, I PM'd you- we have an F-Body club in the area that's going to be cruising some this year

 

onlything flowtech on my car right now is headers and y pipe. im still undecided what to do with the exhaust. i have a 2 1/4 intermediate pipe and i also have some 3 inch pipe but that looks like a nightmare to weld together. and great!! thanks i will definitely have to check it out and would you have any clue what size the bolt is for the panhard rod? im trying to take that off to put the intermediate pipe in but im having no luck finding a size it seems like my sae sockets are to big and to small maybe im missing a size...

 

No clue about the panhard bar bolt as I haven't gotten into mine yet but I can definitely say that you want to go with the 3 inch.
I have a 2.5" Y-pipe as well (Hedman) but I'm using the 3" adapter 'cause you need all the space you can get after that point.

Edit: If you can't find one that fits, go for a metric wrench

 

i will try to get a clamp on it and bolt it down to the size then go match it with some sockets at a parts store. i will try to see about the 3 inch pipe and see what i can do with it. its still has the flange for the cat so i can put a straight pipe over it.

i figured out the issure with the temperature gauge. op had the wrong sender/switch in i ordered the right one and got it today now i just have to get around to installing it

 

i bought the thrush glasspack and put it on today. it sounds really good. i also wired the fan up and they work but it needs two more bolts to hold them down otherwise they just flop around everywhere which sounds awful.

i put the new sending unit in for the gauge and the f*cker STILL doesnt work

oil gauge doesnt work either so what am i gonna do? iam gonna buy a cheap set of mechanical sun pro gauges and stick them in there because i cannot afford a set of electric autometers

 

i have.... UPDATES!!! if anyone is still listening

i got the water gauge working so thats great!
gas gauge works!

cleaned up the engine bay and rerouted wires.
engine no longer has that giant pack of wires running along the intake.
i found the wire for fan switch and knock sensor.
cleaned them off and plugged knock sensor back in.

now i have some downgrades
i fix everything so far and now i got a leaky differential cover.
oil gauge STILL doesnt f*&cking work.
now i got a check engine light on PLUS
a serious misfire
noisy power steering pump out of nowhere.
and a lot of blue smoke on driverside of engine by the plug wires.


SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME

 

What's the code for the check engine light

 

i have no clue. i didnt take the time as i find it a pain in the *** with the paper clip. i suppose i should stop being lazy and just do it if i ever want to fix it.

how bout the smoking header/plug wire area...

 

Leaking valve cover gasket would be my first guess, blue smoke is typically oil and that's where it likes to leak from, I just did a set on a 95 GT that had smoke in that area


And really? That still is my favorite part of diagnosing my RS, I have a microscan now and it's alot faster for pulling multiple codes but it took the fun out of watching the flashes lol

 

yeah ill have to take a look. it just happened out of no where. it appears to be coming from underneath of the headers. and only on the driver side. theres also a serious misfire. i dont want to go dumping money into parts for the ignition for something so dumb so we will start from the beginning!!!

i put the bosch superplus plugs in its really hard to get them all tightened with headers.
i noticed my msd plug wires are to big for the headers.
i put my old plug wires back on i start it up and i get a back fire really bad and it starts smoking in said area.
i put msds back on and it smokes even worse and backfires really bad.


could it be that i do not have my plugs completely tightened? does anyone have any recommended tools to tighten the standard size plugs with headers still on? or do i NEED to invest in some 32$ accel header plugs?

thanks

 

I don't have headers yet so I really don't know how tight of an area you are dealing with, but I can say I like changing the back four plugs from under the car, it's amazing how much easier it is,

The smoke however I would still venture to say the valve cover gasket is leaking and dripping onto a lower portion of the exhaust which is causing the smoke, easiest way to tell if the covers are dripping oil is to either run your hand along the edge of the valve cover, or push the length of your forearm against it(like your trying to reach the far back plug) and see if you have oil on your arm, that's how I found that gt had an oil leak, by changing the spark plugs and my arm was covered in oil(it was a pretty bad leak)

 

ok great ill take a look at the valve covers it might be them. i guess ill try to tighten the bosch plugs as much as i can without removing the headers.

btw i have TONS of parts im no longer using(headers included) if you are in need of anything. its mainly exhaust stuff. and i have a perfect hard top headliner if you or anyone you know need it. i really would like to sell the stuff i have left. to clean things up a bit

 

Pm me any info you have on the headers and what you want for them, Ive been wanting some

 

no luck today, i bought a set of plug wires and put them on. still got the back fire. im really getting pissed at this thing. im going to tear it all apart next week while i am on my break. everythings coming apart. i will tdc it and all that other nonsense. im putting a set of header plugs on it and tightening them while the headers are off. i feel like for every one step forward i take two backwards. i feel like it would be better benefited if i just swap a carburetor on it and call it a day......

 

I'd come over and try to help but lord knows I've got my hands full with my own build. Hopefully it's just a timing issue accidentally created by the previous owner

 

oh that would be such a help!! im tired of working on this thing all by myself.

what are you buiding right now? something similar to me or something completely badass?

i sure hope its a timing issue as well. i notice that i can never get these plugs tightened all the way so im gonna put the header plugs on then put the spark plug socket on and use a ratcheting wrench on the spark plug socket to tighten them.

wish me luck and ill post my results as soon as i can.

oh yeah today i was "testing" my posi to make sure it still works and this thing was screaming next thing i know my entire engine bay is smoking and i got water and antifreeze all over the ground... those worthless squeeze clamps blew off under pressure and i busted a line.... such a sticky hot stinky mess. i hosed everything down after that.

and what does everyone use to get the oil sending unit off? i have the socket but it seems to be too close to the frame to get it on

 

just realized i said "water and antifreeze" in that last post... my mistake