*SOLVED* Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
*SOLVED* Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
So I started my car once again after adding 4 gallons to the tank, let her run for about 35 minutes without problems. I shut the car off. The next morning I went into the garage to charge the battery, there was no noise. I hooked up the positive from the charger, then the negative. I clicked AGM mode for Optima red top, 10amp as stated by Optima and once the charger kicked into the right mode, I started hearing my fuel pump buzz as if the ignition was on. It wasn't. I then went ahead and removed the fuse, nothing, so I then removed all the fuses, still ran. Then I unhooked the relay, when unhooking it the relay had a loud BEEP!, never heard this before. The pump still ran without fuse or relay. Realize I have been starting this car every other day for months.
I'm at a loss. What would allow a fuel pump to run without a fuse or relay, that could happen overnight.
I hear something about an oil pressure switch, but my pressure reads fine and on par, and those who say it's an OPS say it would read way high/low/not at all.
Please help, almost 8 years I've been putting this car together and the past few months the car starts and idles at about 6-750rpm, purring like a kitten. What the hell is going on?
I'm at a loss. What would allow a fuel pump to run without a fuse or relay, that could happen overnight.
I hear something about an oil pressure switch, but my pressure reads fine and on par, and those who say it's an OPS say it would read way high/low/not at all.
Please help, almost 8 years I've been putting this car together and the past few months the car starts and idles at about 6-750rpm, purring like a kitten. What the hell is going on?
Last edited by I H8 WWD; 06-29-2013 at 01:17 PM.
#2
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
Well. Found that there was a 30amp fuse in the fusible link, to which should be 20a. I replaced with a 20a and the pump still runs at all times.
I installed a fan to a toggle switch yesterday, I removed it to take it out of the equation. Now just leaves the stock fan wires (black/pink and black) that I put an end cap on so the wires weren't open.
Let me know guys, was planning on taking the car out of the garage this weekend, after almost 8 years of stop and go work.
P.S. The pump is new. The relay is new and all fuses are new. Thanks.
I installed a fan to a toggle switch yesterday, I removed it to take it out of the equation. Now just leaves the stock fan wires (black/pink and black) that I put an end cap on so the wires weren't open.
Let me know guys, was planning on taking the car out of the garage this weekend, after almost 8 years of stop and go work.
P.S. The pump is new. The relay is new and all fuses are new. Thanks.
#3
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1992 RS / 1989 RS
Engine: 3.1L MFI / Vortec 383 TBI
Transmission: T5 / LS-T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open / 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
If it's a 3 wire oil pressure sending unit, by design, it will bypass a bad fuel pump relay once pressure builds, if that bypass switch in the sender is bad, it can turn on your fuel pump without oil pressure..... I bought a new one from Auto Zone, as soon as I installed it my fuel pump constantly ran, returned it for warranty exchange and had the same result. I returned the second one for refund and bought one from NAPA, been going strong ever since.
#4
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
Thanks. Looks like I'll be removing the dizzy this weekend.
#5
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
Unsure where I found I needed to remove the dizzy (late night?), but I picked a new one up. I'm low on light in the garage, so I'm going to swap out the old unit for the new tomorrow morning. I'm going to drop her down from the stands, change out the parts and if this fixes the fuel pump running constantly, I'm off for 30 day tags. I'm so happy I'm at the point of driving this beauty again. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to update the thread tomorrow, whether good or bad.
Question: Should I drain the oil? Anything I should do to prepare for the uninstall? I just changed the oil, so it would suck to have to do this, so any tips/tricks let me have them. Adios.
Question: Should I drain the oil? Anything I should do to prepare for the uninstall? I just changed the oil, so it would suck to have to do this, so any tips/tricks let me have them. Adios.
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
Fixed. It was the Oil Pressure Sender/Switch.
I did not have to drain the oil. I removed the oil filter hoping it would make it so no oil blew out at the switch when removing it. No oil came out over the filter as well as none through the hole for the switch. I assume you could remove the OPS without removing the filter. The fuel pump has turned off and everything is working as should be.
Now to fix the axle tube leak. JB Weld it is.
I did not have to drain the oil. I removed the oil filter hoping it would make it so no oil blew out at the switch when removing it. No oil came out over the filter as well as none through the hole for the switch. I assume you could remove the OPS without removing the filter. The fuel pump has turned off and everything is working as should be.
Now to fix the axle tube leak. JB Weld it is.
Trending Topics
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
do urself a favor dont put jb weld on it , if the leak is that slow just top off the fluid as needed . cause if u brought something into my shop that u jb welded , and now i have to clean it off and weld it im charging u 2x as much
jb weld should never ever come near anything automotive related
#10
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
Alright guys. Lol. x2 as much haha. Thanks for the pointer. This weekend it goes to the shop...without JB-Weld.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 89 RS 89 iroc 87 firebird
Engine: 3.1 Turbo/ 355 twin turbo
Transmission: a4 w/ 4500 stall/ a4 / t5
Axle/Gears: strange s60 /w 3:42's
Re: Fuel pump stuck on. Not the relay or fuse.
yes 2x as much ppl dont relize that if any jb weld is left on there that it explodeds when heated just like concrette does , not only that but its a pian in the butt to get off and it doesnt work anyway
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post