Tank is full. Batt is good. Started with starter fluid. Won't run.... Bypassed opsu to check fuel pump. Pump is good.... Disengaged fuel lines at tbi, fuel Is there.... No injection.... Took apart tbi and put back together, and started and ran(injectors were spraying) Caught Fire because of gasket broken and a fuel leak when disassembled.... Put fire out ASAP only burnt a vac line, replaced. Put new gasket where broke, no more leaks, but injectors are not spraying once again. Need help. Where should I start????

 

WHAT VEHICLE?

Runs on starter fluid, won't spray fuel?

I'd be looking for power to the injectors, and proper ground for injectors at ECM.

 

Yeah runs on starting fluid but not injecting fuel to the tbi. I replaced the fuel pump relay today and bypassed it and the opsu... I could hear the pump running(I manually ran it for about 10 min straight) but checked the fuel line by the tbi and no fuel. The tank is full. My dad sayed the pump is bad. I didint think so because I could hear it when I directly powered it, I'm starting to believe him after today. He sayed it could be bad because it's not pumping fuel but still makes a noise.....????

 

(1991 chevy camaro)

 

That really good advice, the guy who I bought it from messed up something electrical, he ripped out the AC and heater. Also when I turn on the lights the left blinker on the dash comes on(no blink).... Weird right! So yeah I'm going to check out the ECM tomorrow.

 

From what your describing I'd say it's most likely the ICM-Ignition Control Module based on my own similar problems I had earlier this year.

 

ICM or ECM?? Also how would it effect the pump?

 

ICM its the sensor inside your distributor. If it's bad your pump wont prime and your injectors won't fire it's not that uncommon of a problem. When mine was going bad it left me stranded at work a couple of times.

 

Oh man that's extremely helpful!!! I will try that tomorrow. I was really dreading dropping the tank to change the fuel pump.... And a 40$ For that instead of a 160$ pump is a huge difference!!

 

Hey man I don't think mine has a distributor it's a v8 5.0 tbi...

 

^^

 

The sensor inside the distributor is made up of the reluctor and the pickup coil. The "ICM" is more commonly called the distributor module, or the ignition module. A TBI distributor will have an 8-pin module.

If the module fails, there's no spark because there's no cranking signal to the ECM. No spark, the engine won't run on starting fluid. The engine must have spark or it wouldn't run at all. Even if this module fails, THE PUMP WILL STILL PRIME when the key is turned to "ignition". The pump runs for 2 seconds and then shuts off unless there's cranking signal from the pickup coil/module set.

The pickup coil/reluctor can become weak, my own '88 K1500 had this problem. The magnet cracks, and the pickup coil has low output. The symptoms are different than what the OP is reporting.

Of course you have a distributor. Back of the engine, where all the plug wires come together.






I'll say it again: Do you have power to the injectors, and does the ECM ground them? This would take two minutes to check if you had a TBI 'noid lite. If the light flashes...the injectors are powered and should be spraying fuel, IF (big IF) you have fuel pressure.

OTOH, If you have no fuel pressure when running the pump manually, you can quit looking at the ignition system, and you can quit looking at the injectors.

Where are you shopping that a fuel pump and strainer is $160? $70 I might believe.

Many folks convert to a higher-pressure AC Delco EP241 pump instead of the stock low-pressure TBI pump.
(This link I'm copying is showing an AC fuel pump at $54.35, eligible for Prime shipping, but when I click on it in this post, it comes up more expensive through a third-party seller. Sorry, I don't know how to fix the link.)
Plus another ~$15 for the strainer. A fresh in-tank wire harness is a wise investment; it may or may not come with the fuel pump. If not, another ~$20 will take care of that.

 

I can definetly tell your a mechanic for Chevys. Thanks for double questioning me. I have to trail and error!! "These things" before I jump to conclusions. I'm no mechanic. (22years old) but I know a little and this is an amazing learning experience... And definetly from old school carb engines haha. All input is helpful and welcome because anything anybody say I look it up before I jump. So thanks!! I will update after this trail and error.

 

Also I appreciate your time and thought!! I know you will feel my joy when she starts and is running when this speed bump in life is over!!! As you have felt that same joy when yours was over.

 

Didn't catch the (edit) in time! I apologize. Yeah no pressure when ran the pump manually.... Orielly has a replacement pump for about 150 before taxes.... Do you think cutting and making a access panel to the fuel pump is wise. I'm a welder and have access to things needed to do so...???

 

1. I continued to edit my response after you'd posted. Be sure to check the latest version.

2. Your fuel pump could be perfectly fine, and you'd hear it run--but if the section of hose (or the pulsator, if used) that connects it to the rest of the fuel plumbing inside the tank has ruptured, there'll be little or no fuel pressure. You won't see this until you remove the hanger assembly from the tank.

The hose that connects the fuel pump to the tubing inside the tank is "special", in that MOST fuel hose is not rated for that much pressure, OR rated for submerged use in gasoline. If the hose won't take the pressure, or if the hose won't stand up to submerged use, it's more likely to rupture.

 

That's the risk in me editing a response fifteen times. We crossed paths again, just now.

Seems WAY high.

Not my first choice. Not by a long-shot. Even if I were willing to hack a hole in the body, I'd want a welded-in reinforcement and some way to gasket it to seal-out gasoline and gasoline fumes, and it'd have to be strong enough that it would survive a collision, so I didn't "Pinto" my way to immolation.

I wouldn't weld the reinforcement into place while the tank and fuel plumbing tubes/hoses are directly underneath...so I'd be pulling the tank anyway.

 

An excellent point!!!! It has a 6 point roll cage tig welded in it? But gas is nothing to be messing around with especially fumes. I asked because the tank is totally full!!! But if you have to do it right gotta do it right. What do you recommend doing with all the fuel and how?

 

Any chance the fuel filter is just plain plugged?

Last time I had to empty a tank prior to service, I used the internal fuel pump to push the fuel out through the hanger assembly. This MIGHT still work for you, as there'd be zero pressure needed except to fight gravity. Even if the pump couldn't manage more than a couple of PSI, you might still be able to empty the tank with it by disconnecting the fuel filter and pumping into a drain pan.

This was done on a Lumina, I won't promise that the fuel system you have uses the same connectors.
I have the forming tool to put the GM-style fuel system lock flare on plain tubing.


Then I connected my tubing where the fuel filter would plug in, and activated the pump.







Another option would be to use a length of 3/8 tubing, some rubber hose, and siphon the tank empty (or nearly empty) through the filler neck.

 

I thought "that" the filter might be plugged.... So I changed it. It's just so weird... Because it was pumping before the fire, but at low pressure. Is it possible that somewhere in the fuel line is plugged?

 

Disconnect the fuel supply tube at the fuel filter, and at the TBI inlet fitting.

Blow low-pressure compressed air into the tube. (Potentially by blowing with lung-power.) Have someone listen at the TBI end to see if air comes out.

 

Ok do checked fuel line through and through. Definetly the fuel pump. Replaceing tomorrow.

 

Your profile doesn't say where you're located, but I don't see how Oreilly is going to charge you $150 for a pump and strainer.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...aro&vi=1035773

But Summit has better products at way better prices than $150.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...rd=fuel%20pump

 

Ok, so I dropped and changed the fuel pump... Started up right away and was running for about 25 min. Then I went to put Into reverse. And it died and want start again... Unless I put gas Into the tbi... Started the first time no prob...

 

Any idea what your fuel pressure is reading? Was there a bunch of junk in the bottom of the fuel tank that might be clogging it up? Do you have any rubber fuel line sections that might be collapsing internally?
Blowing air through a hose isn't necessarily going to show a restriction. Take a drinking straw, pinch it half shut and blow through it. Now take that same drinking straw, start sucking up your favorite beverage, then pinch the straw shut half way again. See the difference? It's VERY noticeable.

 

Sorry, but I'm past checking the fuel line. Has plenty of pressure to keep the camaro running. Just won't start. I read that the pump gets it's prime power from the relay and constant power from the opsu. I'll check the relay seems like it's not priming. When I start with starting fluid or gas it stays running...

 

...Until I put it in gear, and begin to move. It dies then...

 

While changing the fuel pump I replaced the rotted lines. Old fuel pump was good but it was just pumping fuel back into the tank because the rotted lines. But that's not the problem now.

 

The ECU commands the relay to prime for two seconds when the key is turned to "run" or "crank". If the ECU gets a signal from the ignition module that the engine is cranking or running, the ECU continues to command the fuel pump to run through the fuel pump relay.

If the fuel pump relay or the associated wiring is faulty, the oil pressure switch acts as a bypass. If the engine has oil pressure, the fuel pump will run. The oil pressure switch can cause the fuel pump to run, but it cannot shut off the fuel pump if the fuel pump relay is also commanding the pump to run.

If the engine won't start at all, I'm not sure what's going on. If it will start, but requires an excessively-long cranking time (enough to build oil pressure) then the fuel pump relay, relay wiring, or the ECU is faulty.

Starting on fuel manually sprayed into the intake stream (aerosol carb cleaner, ether, etc) then running on normal fuel pressure after that sounds like a failed fuel pump relay, wiring, or ECU as described above. I bet the engine will start without the starter fluid if you crank it long enough.

 

What's the status on the messed up/missing 3 vacuum lines you mentioned in your other thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...7899-help.html

Here's my thought, if you have not already fixed all that, is that you are way too lean to start or run properly. Spraying carb cleaner in will richen things up enough to start, but when you jump into the throttle the car just can't make up for going that lean that quick.
Fix your vacuum lines and tell us how it is after that.

If you've already fixed them correctly, then my other question would be regarding fuel pressure. You mentioned earlier in this thread your pressure was good, but what PSI are you seeing exactly? It will help us to help you if you can tell us what the pressure is at idle and while driving when it stalls out. You may have more than one problem.

 

It starts right away... Runs ok. But when I accelerate too fast the engine dies instantly. No puttering. But as soon as I let off the gas it starts right back up again, while in motion...

 

You need to test the ignition coil output voltage, and the fuel pressure UNDER LOAD.

A spark-tester will do for the coil output test. I like this kind, but there are others:

Test at the plug end of each of the spark plug wire. That can help rule-out defective plug wires, too.

 

Turned out to be fuel pressure, when I rebuilt the tbi I kinked the line a bit...

 

Glad you were able to figure it out. Thanks for sharing what fixed it too, it could help someone else out in the future.