I know this question pops up every so often, and I want to ask in my words based on what I want to do.

The emissions pump only warms the cat up faster when you start it up (correct me if im wrong please), so due to the fact that its basically used 5 minutes a day, weighs 30 lbs. and makes my engine bay look like dookie, I'm planning on taking it out after I get my new heads next month. Every two years I'll install the pump and dummy the hoses for inspection day, so I dont want to cut the tubes off the headers which makes me ask where do i get the caps for them.

Next question is that according to the ever so trusting Haines Manual, the ECM runs the Control valve, so thats the confusing part to me. Prevost, if you reading this, you told me at Atco, that it doesn't matter, all I gotta do is crimp the pipe comming off my catalytic converter, and not to worry about the computer and all. I just dont want it to run to rich or lean with this stuff off. If thats the case if thats the case with it, does the oxygen sensor have anything to do with it?? Its about as clear as mud to me, and its some simple answer probably.

I know all the other stuff about the belt rerouting around the crank and water pump. Any thing else im forgetting? I've only posted this cause I need my car everyday and I can't screw something up, and not be able to use it for a few days. Thanx in advance.
~Tim

I posted here because I didn't know if a emissions question should be asked on the exaust board

 

the computer isnt affected by the pump electronics not being hooked up...i still have the pump there but none of the other stuff and i havent gotten any codes or anything...im about to take the pump and my AC compressor out...do you have a diagram about how to route it? you have a S belt right? ive also een alot of posts were people say they pass emmissions fine without the pump even on 350 irocs/z28s...

 

kewl, i still wanna know where to get the caps for my headers.

I know how to route the belt, just gotta get one 3 inches longer i believe thats the size

 

As for "caps" for your AIR tubes, I was able to find some sort of plumbing cap for threaded pipes to close them off. Honestly it took me a little while to get the right sized one, and I cant remeber what the size was, but just go to a larger hardware store and browse arround in the plumbing fitings depart, you will see them eventually.

They are kinda hard to describe but they have a threaded end and a socket like top on them, so they kinda screw/bolt up to your air tubes to close off those stupid things.

As for the belt routing w/o an ac compressor and air pump e-mail (d2kearney@rogers.com) me and I will send you the routing. Mind you I have not tried it out yet, but in theory this should work. I am waiting till the summer when I pull my car out of storage to try this out.

later

 

As for the caps, if you can't find plumbing fittings or if they don't seal, you can just buy some hose of the same size, cut it into about 1.5" lengths, stick bolts that are the same size into them and lock it with a band clamp. This is an easy way to do it with spare parts that are laying around. Granted, it doesn't look A+, but it works. Taking off the smog pump won't change the mix (even if it did, you could retune using a multimeter hooked to your o2 sensor). The pump puts fresh air into the exhaust so the CAT can "reburn" it... There is no reason to crimp the piece at the CAT if you're gonna take the pump off and plug the holes. You shouldn't get any codes with the delete. Don't forget to buy a 96.8" 6 rib belt before you do all this.

 

waht does capping it actually do. On my friends camaro, i put my finger on the hole, and i felt air puffing out and sucking in real quick. Whats the purpose of those, and crimping the pipe off the cat?

ANd im just looking at the pump. It actually looks like the bracket is attached to the ac compressor and tensioner as one whole piece. Nothing is easy to do when its cold outside i guess.
~Tim

 

You wanna cap the ends so exhaust doesn't come back into the engine compartment. As for crimping the pipe at the cat... again it won't do you any good if you have to put the pump back on for emissions. The only reason to do that would be if you were gonna scrap the system altogether and take the tubing out. You don't have to take the AC or the bracket off to remove the pump. It should only take you 1/2 hour to do this mod. Just remove the bolts from the pump and drop it out the bottom... with the AC compressor in the way it wont come out the top unless you cut a notch in your fan housing. It takes a little twisting, but it will go out the bottom. Although this mod does remove weight and engine clutter it is only good for about 2 or 3hp. So if you don't like the cold weather, I'm sure it could wait until spring or the next relatively warm weekend.

 

i wasnt actually gonna put the pump back back on in a funtional manner for inspection, but since it takes only 30 min every two years. WHY NOT??
~Tim

 

In addition you may wanna take the pulley off before you remove the pump. I think I had to in order to drop it out the bottom. Good Luck!

 

i got to looking and it looks like the AC will come out and leave the idler pulley there so i can ust remove both the air pump and AC compressor and get a different belt and keep my normal routing..

 

you really don't hav eto worry about puttingthe pump and dummy hoses back on in new jersey for now. we currently do not have a visual inspection. if the smacker at the inspection station of your local shop tells you other wise he is lying.
it is not even a federally required part. gm was the only company to make wide use of it.
also, it doesn't weigh 30lbs, abotu 12 is more like it.

later
tim

 

I would like to get a set of headers w/o the air tubes, It makes the engine bay so much cleaner, but I thought the a.i.r. system was operational all the time, not just during the cat "warm up" time? I thought it forced air into what would be the second half of the cat, for final burning of the remaining pollutants. I have the combination dyno/sniffer test every year, but no visual. Is their any actual tech data referencing when exactly the a.i.r. system is used and it's effect on emissions if it is disabled? I didn't know it was a GM exclusive system. I really would like to get rid of it on my 90, and with 182k+ miles I was really looking into a full 3" exhaust swap in preperation for a 350 swap. I would just hate to spend all that money and then not pass because I disabled the a.i.r. system.

Deadtrend, another option for your belt routing is to get the smog pump delete pulley from chevy (pn# 10186167). This is probably the way I am going to do it if I do the A.i.r. delete. Just an option.

 

the belt routing isn't a problem .. i know exactly how it goes without looking at pictures. Just re route it around the water pump and crack, thats all. My only concern is how will it affect my car, and hte minor steps i had to take. Thanx guyz.
~Tim