I have never run my car and until now have not worried about much other than the appearance. I am currently stock except for an open element cleaner, k&N filter, cat-back exhaust, and 3.73 rear end. So what kind of things can I do to my car to make at least mid-low 14s? I don't want to completely rebuild the engine either. Thanks

 

Heads, cam, hedders, high flow cat (or a punched out one) intake, and a good 3 inch exhuast. It doesnt matter what ehuast that ya get. Some might give a hp or 2 over another one but thats about it.

Kat

 

Get some suspension mods if you haven't done so already. Better traction = faster ET.

After that, you pretty much HAVE to start tearing into the engine....unless you replace it.

 

Nirtous Oxide kit # NOS-05153

 

If you have headers into a good aftermarket cat-back, you'll be fine, especially with the cowl hood and 3.73's you have on the car...I would say you could run a 14.5 no problem if you just added an intake/headers/exhaust.

 

Ok, I have been considering headers anyway. You see, my goal is to be close to my little brother's trans am (95 lt1). He ran a 14.29 so if I could just get in or near the 14s I would be thrilled. But I don't want to tear into the engine because if I sell the car, I know that will scare potential buyers. Also I am scared of what NOS can do!!!!

 

If you want to run low 14's you almost need to either dig into the engine or use a power adder. My formula to move the Lo3 into the low 14's on a budget would look like the following:
Lt1 cam swap, new intake manifold, full exhaust, and N2o. With your rear diff, the mods I listed, some traction (whole nother issue), and a 75hp shot of N2o would make you a very happy big brother. I'm in the same boat with you, I don't like N2o, that's why I will never use more than 100hp shot with cast pistons. It's really safe as long as you have the equipment to instantly shut off the system when low/no fuel pressure and TPS sensor. That way you don't burn a piston and do that kind of stuff, you'll only through a rod through the oil pan . Just kidding.
N2o is definatly the cheapest way to go fast. For the 305 I would consider doing N2o before heads.

 

Ok, I was dreaming at low 14s then, but I still want to get close to 14s.

 

all you need is a posi rear w/3.73 gears($350-500), boxed rear control arms($5 for a piece of strap metal at home depot and have someone weld it for ya, maybe $15 total), spohn relocator brackets($65), an edelbrock performer tbi intake($125used, $215new), and an LT1 cam w/new valve springs(cam $25-40, springs $45, + gackets and stuff, maybe $100total if you do it your self), full exhaust(hedders w/ 1 5/8 primaries and 3inch collector w/ 2 3inch into 1 3inch y-pipe$300, 3inch cat $75-125, 3inch cat back $160-225). once you have this combo assembled just ask around and someone here will hook you up wiht a chip on hte cheap. the only other thing you may need is to either drop the front sway bar at the track to help get traction or get a set of drag tires of some sort, stock sized tires and even "good" street tires are gonna have trouble holding with all the torque you will be making.
it is not hard to do this at all.

later
tim

 

like NJ SPEEDER says that and then add a 125 shot of NOS and youre talking high 12's material!!

 

ahh, nitrous. the best part time power you can have.
go for the engien grunt route. it is cheaper and the bottle is never empty. most of the reduction in your et will come from teh traction and gearing. with the gears, ultimate tbi, and suspension stuff you can be runnin low 15's, the cam adn intake will put you way into the 14's, shoulsd be enough to habng with that LT1 most of the way down the track.

later
tim

 

Tell me more! What will this do? I don't know about rear control arms.