OK here's what I ordered today:
-World Products 305 Torquer heads
-Comp Cam: 206/210 dur .450/.480" lift
-Edelbrock EGR performer
-Flowtech Ceramic headers
-Dynomax Cat back

and..... what did I miss??

 

NOS Sniper N20 kit? .

j/k, that list sounds pretty good. Don't forget you'll need a ton of gaskets (intake, head, header, tbi). You'll need the TBI to 4bbl adaptor too, if you don't already have one.

 

Oh... Edelbrock intake. I almost thought you forgot the intake manifold!

 

hey man where did u order that cam from i have only seen it in sdpc for238 bucks. i was wonderin if u got it cheaper. also let me know how u liek the cam and how the idle is thanks man

 

hey man where did u order that cam from i have only seen it in sdpc for238 bucks. i was wonderin if u got it cheaper. also let me know how u liek the cam and how the idle is thanks man

 

you forgot chassis and suspension
do you have posi w/3.73's? boxed control arms? control arm relo brackets? battery relo to hatch? good tires?

you will have plenty of power once you get it all tuned in, but you better find some hook, especially with a stick car.

later
tim

 

Uhhhh I forgot the suspension stuff. I was planning on going with Lakewood control arms but I never understood the relocation process, maybe you could explain it to me. I do have some good tires but I think I am going with slicks for the track. Right now the rear end is the open 3.08. I was thinking posi 3.42/3.45 from a G92 305 TPI car. I figured with the stuff I ordered this would eliminate all the TBI weak spots but how will the ECM take it? Will I need to burn a new chip or run an aftermarket one? Or can I just use the stock chip? Thanks.

 

I'm actaully getting it through a local performance shop for $390 canadian (so about the same american) and my shortblock will be rebuilt in about a week, I'll assemble the long block and I'll be running at the track in less than 3 weeks hopefully. I'll let you know how it runs once I get it all together.

 

Tim, I've seen you recommend this stuff to people here a bunch of times - why do the LCA relocater bracket if no lowering springs? And I know there's a bit of difference, but is moving the battery back and boxing the control arms (for drag, not x) that big a deal?

I'm not questioning your judgement (I'm sure you know more than me about running 14s/13s/maybeeven12s), just curious why...

 

The LCA Relocation brackets do make a difference even on stock springed cars. The Suspension Geometry was messed up to begin with. The LCA RB's fix that.

 

You forgot the pushrods,springs and possibly lifters (if the lifters don't come with the cam).

 

nah cant you reuse roller lifters. i would get new pushrods just cuz they are relatively cheap. but the springs on the new heads will be able to handle the lift of that cam

 

You forgot a custom, dyno tuned chip. It will run kinda crappy without one. When I had my 92 firebird, it had 3.42 gears, posi, headers, open air element, UTBI mods and it ran a best of 15.2 at 91mph. (automatic) With the holley projection intake and TBI unit and ED Wright( His TBI chips pretty much suck, get it tuned on a dyno) I got down to a 15.0? at almost 92mph. With my torquer heads it just ran like **** and I couldn't get it out of the high 15's after that, even with a new chip from the "almighty" Ed Wright. Or you might try a Carb.

 

I had the same kind of problem that you had Mike. I was running low-15's and I swapped heads, intake, throttle body, etc. and dropped to high-15's. I just got done swapping to carbed.

 

Thats the one thing I am concerned about: the chip. Will the car really run that bad with these mods? I thought that the mods I was doing wouldnt really affect the ECM too much.

 

It's hard to say. Some people's combos seem to work okay with the stock computer (with fuel pressure and/or timing adjustment) and some people's don't.

 

So I guess the best thing is to just try it then and see how it works. So another part to add to the list if AFPR then.

 

what is an afpr. also i live in new jersey is there any1 aroudn here who does custom chips

 

AFPR is adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

 

i would try a VAFPR, which is a vacuum adjusted fuel pressure regulator

 

Where do you think you can pick an VAFPR up??

 

So will I need to bump up the pressure when I'm done with all these mods?

 

yes

 

Don't forget:


12 pack of diet coke

BFH (big f? hammer)

Vise grips

Stainless hardware

Turn the phone off

Shut the garage door

Fire extinguisher for when your first hook the battery/start her

Beef jerky and pringles (easy to eat fast)

Coffee machine filters

Permatex Ultra Black (good, sensor safe)

Anti-sieze

H2O pump gaskets

thermostat base gasket

distributor base gasket

fuel-pump block-off plate/gasket (if U need it)

Obvious gaskets

ARP head bolts or studs

Nice calibrated clicker torque wrench

Let your significant other know ahead of time you will be busy for a bit.


Clean the area you are to work in and have bins/plastic trays/ziploc bags/tuperware around to stash parts as they come off.

Make sure you have all the req'd tools. If not, go to AutoZone and borrow them.

 

You don't need slicks to run 14's man. Good tires will do....Vettes and SS camaros run high 12s on street tires all the time (although they are a bit bigger), but if they can run 12s, u can run 14's on street tires. And on that same note, yea, you'll need suspension work later on when you get faster, but right now I'd just focus on getting the motor running like u want, till traction becomes a big problem. I'd also go ahead and get whatever gear u want in ur rearend. And yea, a custom chip would be a good idea. I dunno if it would be a must...i've never put heads on a TBI car. How may miles u got on the car by the way?

 

I have 100,000 miles but I am rebuilding the shortblock anyway. And the reason I am running slicks is because I can get them for free and I want to get the most traction on the strip I can. I know I dont need them, I just want some serious hook. I pretty much dumped most of my money into the engine so I dont have a lot left over for the suspension.

 

That's cool. But since you have a T5, I wouldn't be doing any powershifting w/ those slicks on...u don't want any tranny or rearend troubles....but you don't have ungodly HP, so you should be ok...good luck

 

Yeah I'll take it easy on the T5. I think I have the World Class one though so that makes it a little bit tougher.

 

So who makes a LCA relocation bracket?

 

http://www.spohn.net/
He's only a major sponsor for thirdgen that just donated $$$ for a new server!!!, $65 and weld em in and no more wheel hop.

 

I disagree with the above statement. The new vettes and f-bodys can run low 13's and high 12's because they have more power and a very thought out platform. They'll run even faster WITH slicks. You want to run 14's, slicks are the way to go. HP gives you mph but traction gives you a lower ET. You need slicks to make up for some of the short comings in the thirdgen suspension system, just ask Tim, no way would he have been running 14.2's without his slicks. With his road racing springs and shocks on street meats he wouldn't be remotely close to his current 60's let alone consistant.
If you get slicks, make sure your torque converter isn't really far from being mismatched with the engine (like me). Right now my torque converter is stock and I had to play light foot of the line which led to me 2.1__ 60' times...which SUCK considering I was running a 102mph. If I had a higher stall the car would be able to leave smoother off the line = more consistant and faster, just like having slicks!
Slicks are a key for low ETs and completely useless for 1/4 trap speed improvements .

 

14's? Hell, if you do what NJSpeeder said and throw in some slicks and ultimate TBI mods, you'll be in the 13's.

 

ok fine its back open. Just because I took your post as sarcasm doesn't mean it was. my bad.

 

I guess you didn't get what I was saying. I'm not stupid man, I mean common, I dont drive a honda...haha, I KNOW that slicks = lower ETs....i was simply stating that slicks weren't a MUST to run 14s...of course he'll have wheel spin, but he wouldn't spin half way down the track, which would make slicks a must. I just figured that rather than spending the $$ on slicks (he says he can get em for free...but i made that statement before I knew that) he could buy something that could benefit his car all the time, just not at the strip. But he can get em for free, so we all know what he should do. But once again...i know slicks will make him quicker, but they're not a must....an example of a must - my friend has an S10 w/ a 383...he ran a 15.3 down the track...spinning nearly the entire way...he NEEDS slicks.

 

Ah JPrevost just the guy I want to ask: Is my ECM gonna act all funky with this setup??? You seem pretty knowledgeable about the comps.