Right now we are looking at the AFR 195's Their hydra rev kit, 1.6 rr's siamesed runners, 58mm TB ported base and plenum and we are not set on the cam yet. I am trying to figure out if I could use the zz shortblock and be OK, it has 4 bolt mains, forged crank, PM rods and HP pistons, my main concern is the rods. It will be spun up to 6,000 or 6,500 RPM. I will also be spraying about a 100hp shot. What does everyone think?

 

to make 475hp at 6000, your going to need 415ft/lbs of torque. Thats pretty tough on a 350. Your average well built 350 tpi is closer to 440ft/lbs peak.. and it will probably be below 370ft/lbs by 6000. I think your going to need to shoot for about 450hp and even that will be tough with a 350 tpi.

As far as making it live goes, I think 6000 or even 6500 is n/p . Just take the time to get it balanced it should live fine.

 

Oh, I dont want to make my peak hp at 6,000 I just want to still habve power there.

 

You will need closer to 450ft/lbs at 5500 otherwise.

If your going tpi just maximize torque below 5000 (a 400cid tpi will be the best solution). Let HP fall whereever. And be prepared to work on traction.

 

And if this is going in s ThirdGen, you'd better plan on strengthening the body - a bunch. If you integrate the traction mods into the body supports, you'll save a little work.

 

We're looking at the zz4 short block, the TPI setup from my current 350 (L98) with SLP runners and a ported plenum and base. The cam will probably be a little more aggressive then the hot cam. This is going into our 87 IROC. And yes, we are planning on strenghthening the body alot. By the time the engine goes in (probably March of next year), I hope to have almost a complete aftermarket suspension on the car (LottaBalls doesn't know that yet )

 

Care to elaborate on that one Vader?

 

dude stroke it!!! if you want gobs of hp and tourqe a 383 is the only way to go!!! and why insist on winding to 6500 rpm when you can make say 475 hp at 5500 rpm... the main thing is keeping in the rpm band where the car makes the most power... and don't waste 2000 dollars on a cheap gm crate motor when you can build a motor 10 times as better for that much.. i don't know why gm want's so much for just a shortblock??? also im in the stages of a 500hp 383 for my ta.. i'm probebly going to throw out the freshly rebuilt 10 bolt and tranny.. oh well thats what you get when you want hp.. good luck and keep me informed on how it comes along!!


later badgta

 

What I was hinting at was to have an overall plan before beginning any of the suspension modifications.

Subframe connectors that stop at the rear structural channels will make the floor more rigid, but don't do a lot of good for the factory LCAs. Custom SFCs that extend rearward and integrate an adjustable mounting point for the LCAs are more functional in both strenthening the floorpan and applying traction (thrust) forces directly to the strongest part of the body. Tubular braces in the vehicle can also be planned to join the SFCs at a critical point such as this. Torsional braces across the subframes under the floorpan would be planned to accomodate the driveshaft loop, exhaust, and torque arm, and would be complex. Similar braces positioned above the floorpan (inside the vehicle) can be just as functional and make more overall space under the vehicle. They should also be placed with the other interior braces in mind, and terminate at the key points where the SFCs, LCSa, roll bars, UCAs, other key structural components terminate.

Once you devise an overall picture of what a strong chassis should look like, you can visualize how the factory components fit within that picture, and what needs to be done to augment the factory design. If a plan for rear axle control and linear thrust transmission is made while the chassis design is finalized, the work will be more efficient overall and result in a better end product. Just bolting components here and there to "improve" the chassis can be counterproductive.

 

Thanks Vader, Ill keep that in mind whaen I get ready for the 400ci.....Have a great day.

 

Ok, we are thinking about stroking it now. And LottaBalls has been contemplating building our own block, instead of buying the ZZ4.

 

I would go with the crate, but I just couldnt trust the rods.

 

Damn, I love Vader's responses, he always beats me to it, and says it a lot better .
I do have to disagree with the 475 being tough though, Don't think JCB read close enough. You said you were gonna do a 100 shot of N20. With that, you'll only have to pull 375 NA (approximately of course) which isn't hard at all with a 350, though the TPI will need some work. Heck the zz4 from the factory is 355, and with some mild port work on the heads a certain GM vendor is offering it at 385, then of course you have the zz430, which was a 350 that put out 430 hp. And a 100 shot won't overstrain the engine, lotsa people running a 100 shot on a zz4 short block.
On the other hand if you're looking to make 475 NA, you'll need to step it up considerably. Look at at least a 383, forged pistons, and probably a step up to AFR 210's.
BTW, on the rods issue, the zz4 rods are plenty strong, but any decent crate 383 or 400 will at least step up to ARP hardware which will give you more peace of mind.

 

That was NA, I always set my goals high. I am seriously thinking about a 383 now but they arent as strong at the upper RPM's The TB is a 52MM the runners will be SLP siamesed and the plenum and base will be ported, The whole nine yards.

 

any one else?

 

aren't as strong in the upper rpm's ???? huh choose a cam that will let the engine live upthere and it will be stronger than a 350...

 

MrsLottaBalls, this is a public forum! =D

 

LMAO

 

The longer stroke of the crank makes the con rods and pistons travel at a faster rate to make the same revolutions therefore, they are stressed more.