Yeah I took out most of my A/C yesterday, and finished it up today with removing the ducts and sort. Now I have a huge like 4X6 hole in my firewall. How do I plug that up? And also, I have removed my A/c and smog pump and I was wondering which kind of belt I should use? What do I do about a belt tensioner? Sorry, it was 3 questions. But thanks ya'll,

 

TTT

 

Please guys, it's getting hot in my cab now. Can I just use sheet etal and weld/screw or what? thanks,

 

I'm not positive, but I think there's an A/C-delete panel of some sort that goes over the hole. Best bet would be a junkyard. I'm not positive on this tho, but if you have a Hayne's manual or can find a parts diagram for the engine compartment, I'm sure it'd show it. I think there's an A/C delete pulley too, but I don't think that matters if you removed the smog pump too. I'm sure as a last ditch effort you could use something (maybe an old belt?) to measure the length of the new belt route and go down to a decent parts store with your old one and find something.


Kyle

 

10055890 is the part number for the AC delete pulley and go to http://members.aol.com/iroczdave/pubpage.html and get the non AC heater box to cover that hole. With the AC delete pulley you should still be able to use the tensioner.

here is a pic of mine

 

That's a nice looking engine compartment man, so you removed your smog and A/C and just put this *does nothing* rotating thing with a belt tensioner on it and that did the trick? Just wondering what that was? Yeah man, thanks for the link, I now know what to look for, but I think I am just going to put a piece of sheet metal over it. In all honesty, that guy on that website is the BIGGEST rip-off I have ever seen. EVERY part he has on there are like at least 10 times more than a junkyard in the same condition. But anyway, get back to me on that belt situation, I'd appreciate it. later,

 

Wow, I took my whole airbox off, and it left me with (2) big wholes to deal with.

You can get a sheet of 24"X24" of 24-28? Gauge steel over at Home Depot for $3.00 bucks. Get yourself a set of metal cutters for 14 bucks (I got the yellow handles good to 18GA). I already had a pop riveter, but I think I paid 15-20 bucks, and has a movable head.

Cut to fit, and pop rivet that sucker on there. Use some clear RTV to seal.

It looks preaty cool to boot.

I guess if you have a small Mig Welder, that would make easy work of it also.

Ron

 

That's what I was looking for man, thnks a jiffy. Yeah, you right, I had two holes, but I thought the other one (the round one) was sealed of in the cockpit side, but I guess not. Looks like I'm going to home depot now. Thanks man,

 

I still have my smog hooked up so it will be alittle different than your setup. If you are removing both you AC and heater then just use sheet metal but if u plan on having any kind of heat, you will need some sort of heater box.

 

nah, I ain't looking to have any heat. My car is already hot enough. Thanks for ya'lls input, I am going to home on de-pot in a few.

 

ok so i wunna take off my air pump the thing below my condenser. i will still have heat right and it won't effect anything right except emissions witch is a joke lol

 

well I don't really know which one is a certain thing, I just yanked it ALL out.

 

If you just want to get rid of emissions stuff, remove the smog pump (below the compressor), the air deverter valve (black box above the passenger side valve cover) and all the hoses connected to it.
the only way that you will not have any heat is if you remove the heater box on your firewall which includes the blower motor, which blows the air off of your heater core into your car.

I would have all my smog stuff removed but i live in california so......it wont be happening if i still want to be driving my car.

 

Just make sure you measure twice, and cut once


Ron

 

I had a buddy of mine take my box and trace it onto some really thin aluminum. Eventually it will be painted the same color as the engine bay.



Tim

 

Thats a clean engine bay man. Yeah, I got some sheet metal yesterday, and I drew out the measurements on paper. But I haven't gotten it tothe sheet metal yet. Did you have to use any kind of buching/insulator around the edges to make a good seal, I was thinking about doing that even if it wasn't necessary. But thanks you guys,

 

I slowly removed the foam sealer from my stock box and applied it to the new sheetmetal piece. Worked great ... just needed to be really careful and take my time

Tim