Questions about NJ inspection?
Questions about NJ inspection?
Hi all. okay heres my problem. im taking my car to inspection on saturday morning. right now i have no emmission controls on the car besides the cat. will i pass NJ emmission? and since they have that stuipd *** dyno thingy i have thins feeling that i will fail. ive seen new cars fail and im worried. tomarrow im goin to do and oil change and add motor honey to the engine just for alittle extra safety. and then im thinking of tryin that emmissions stuff u put into ur gas tank and then run the car till ur almost out of gas and fill up and then go to inspection and ur suposed to pass or double ur money back. should i spend the extra 10 bucks for that crap or what? so what does anyone in NJ or surrounding areas think ill do. also the engine was rebuilt and im sure it has less then 15-20,000 miles on it. if that helps.
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Car: 99 Formula
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First off, in MD we have the dyno too, but I went one day when it was raining, and they couldn't do the dyno cause of it, not sure why. Anyway, I failed the test, but every test there after, they couldn't do the dyno since my first test didn't use it. Something you might want to try and wait for.
I've have luck lowering my readings (I've been 4 times) by being low on gas about 1/8th tank, pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in and drive at least 20 mins around town and some 55 mph cruising before testing, helps clean the engine out. It has shown in my tests to help, though at the time I didn't have a cat, so I kept failing.
I've have luck lowering my readings (I've been 4 times) by being low on gas about 1/8th tank, pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in and drive at least 20 mins around town and some 55 mph cruising before testing, helps clean the engine out. It has shown in my tests to help, though at the time I didn't have a cat, so I kept failing.
You will pass without all the emmissions equip. Just have a goodl clean cat on there and as insurance add ten bottles of dry gas to a 1/4 full tank of gas.
I passed in april with only a cat, but no dry gas. Here is the combo: AFR 190's 58 cc, zz3 cam, 1.6 RR intake. Stock TPI.
HC 58 ppm limit 175.
Went to Kilmer in Piscataway.
I passed in april with only a cat, but no dry gas. Here is the combo: AFR 190's 58 cc, zz3 cam, 1.6 RR intake. Stock TPI.
HC 58 ppm limit 175.
Went to Kilmer in Piscataway.
yea the kilmer station is just a bit too far from me. but im goin to the plainfield station. also blak92 did they do the dyno thing on ur car? plus where can i find dry gas? becuz i work at pepboys and all we carry is the emmissions formula stuff. is the dry gas called DRY GAS or is it called something else. i really need to pass. the car hasnt been on the raod for a 1yr and a half.
Dry gas is Isoproyl alcohol, you can get it at any auto store. Also, they do use the dyno.
BTW, Dry gas is about 69¢ compared to $8+ dollars for that worthless
emmissions additive. Just use the dry gas and you will be fine.
The inspection before my current one, I used 10 bottles of dry gas with 1/5 full tank of gas. The inspector was going nuts because the ppm's would not register. The final result was 15ppms of HC. O2 was 0.0 and No was around 500. Compared to 75 ppms when I returned 2 weeks later (failed for a light bulb, and DMV could not reaquire the tests prior) with no dry gas.
Also, I disconnected the primary fan and only had the secondary fan, which kicks on at about 240°; This will reduce HC but kick up the No slightly.
BTW, Dry gas is about 69¢ compared to $8+ dollars for that worthless
emmissions additive. Just use the dry gas and you will be fine. The inspection before my current one, I used 10 bottles of dry gas with 1/5 full tank of gas. The inspector was going nuts because the ppm's would not register. The final result was 15ppms of HC. O2 was 0.0 and No was around 500. Compared to 75 ppms when I returned 2 weeks later (failed for a light bulb, and DMV could not reaquire the tests prior) with no dry gas.
Also, I disconnected the primary fan and only had the secondary fan, which kicks on at about 240°; This will reduce HC but kick up the No slightly.
Last edited by blak92!; Jun 12, 2002 at 06:54 AM.
Most of the fuel additives I've picked up (STP Gas Treatment, HEET, Gumout) are actually methyl alcohol, not isopropyl.
Much stronger solvent properties in methyl than ethyl or isopropyl alcohol, and it has fewer HC per molecule with the same hydrox quantity...that OH- is what later becomes the extra oxygen in the combustion process.
The downside to methanol...it is more destructive to rubber and aluminum with prolonged exposure than ethanol or isopropanol. Don't use it every day.
PS: mine passed NJ dyno emission with no modifications whatsoever, same setup than ran me 13.19sec@102mph at Island Dragway a few weeks prior.
Keep your car tuned and you won't have to play games beating the system, you'll make more power, and you won't be polluting the environment so much.
Much stronger solvent properties in methyl than ethyl or isopropyl alcohol, and it has fewer HC per molecule with the same hydrox quantity...that OH- is what later becomes the extra oxygen in the combustion process.
The downside to methanol...it is more destructive to rubber and aluminum with prolonged exposure than ethanol or isopropanol. Don't use it every day.
PS: mine passed NJ dyno emission with no modifications whatsoever, same setup than ran me 13.19sec@102mph at Island Dragway a few weeks prior.
Keep your car tuned and you won't have to play games beating the system, you'll make more power, and you won't be polluting the environment so much.
Last edited by kevinc; Jun 12, 2002 at 02:42 PM.
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah I'll be taking my car to the fine NJ state inspection facility in about a week for the first time with the new engine. I'm not too worried because I have all the emissions equipment and it's a fresh rebuild, but I might dump in some dry gas for a little extra help.
I sure hope one of the low-qualified inspectors doesn't hop my 400-500 ft/lbs. torque baby off the dyno into a wall!!
I sure hope one of the low-qualified inspectors doesn't hop my 400-500 ft/lbs. torque baby off the dyno into a wall!!
I took mine to the Randolph inspection station and noticed it was "climbing" up the dyno roller during the test. Evidently they don't believe in straps.
Mine only makes 367 lb/ft of torque max, but it's over 300 lb/ft all the way from 2200-4800rpm. Dyno graphs are on the page in my sig.
Good luck w/ the new engine!
Mine only makes 367 lb/ft of torque max, but it's over 300 lb/ft all the way from 2200-4800rpm. Dyno graphs are on the page in my sig.
Good luck w/ the new engine!
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
some of these inspectors are just plain stupid. The guy who tested my moms honda just set the parking brake and floored it. And, of coarse, teh thing shot right off the dyno...
what products could i look for like brand name things that are DRY GAS. becuz i put this Outlaw fuel treatment stuff. also i didnt a oil change and i cleaned the hell out of the carb. and ill do it again tomarrow and then hope to pass enless i find the DRY GAS soon. help me
hey im pretty lucky becuz last month i hooked my friend up with an extra glasspack and i asked my friend last night after i posted here and he had two bottles of dry gas and now i got them becuz i hooked him and he hooked me up.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I went through NJ inspection twice; passed with flying colors the first time, barely passed the second time. (Found out a week later that my distributor cap was dead- I should've checked it, like I did the first time. http://www.geocities.com/tomp_3rdgen/burnt-cap.html )
I can't wait until they kick Parsons out of the f'ing state. Did you hear that NJ emissions DID NOT DROP because of this new test?? Our emissions were supposed to drop. Nope, instead, they go up. WTF? G-damn emissions tests.
A big problem with emissions is a misfiring, out of tune, motor. If you have one cylinder with bad spark, it can put out enough emissions for 6-7 "legal" cars! So here's some stuff to check. It's what I did the first time.
Remove all plugs. Clean them, re-gap them to STOCK spec.
Check/adjust timing to STOCK spec. Check all wires (resistance meter), if in doubt, replace 'em with stock ones, and take them off when the test is done. Label the box "wires for emissions test only". Put a new, Kmart/Walmart, $6 air filter on. After the test, take it off, and label it "emissions test only".
Remove the distributor cap. Check it out. If it's not melted like mine, clean all the carbon deposits off the inside terminals with a small file. Be careful not to file the terminals at an angle! Clean the rotor, too. Spray carb/choke cleaner inside your carb to clean all the crap out. Make sure your EGR opens as it should. Don't forget to check "tire thread depth" (the penny trick), steering, brakes, etc.
Some causes of emissions:
1. High CO: Running lean (change the air filter Not enough Oxygen is getting into the car to make CO into CO2!)
2. High HC: Misfiring cylinder
3. High HC & CO: Misfiring, running lean
4. High NOx: EGR wasn't kicking in
The test should be the ASM-5015 test, which means "50% load at 15 mph".
Oh yeah- I also used "Guaranteed to Pass" from Pep Boys, instead of Dry Gas. You put it in a full tank of gas, drive till the tank is almost empty, fill up with another tank of gas, and go ASAP to the emissions test. I think the bottle was $8. Ask for a copy of the printout, and let us know how you did! Good luck on passing!!
I can't wait until they kick Parsons out of the f'ing state. Did you hear that NJ emissions DID NOT DROP because of this new test?? Our emissions were supposed to drop. Nope, instead, they go up. WTF? G-damn emissions tests.
A big problem with emissions is a misfiring, out of tune, motor. If you have one cylinder with bad spark, it can put out enough emissions for 6-7 "legal" cars! So here's some stuff to check. It's what I did the first time.
Remove all plugs. Clean them, re-gap them to STOCK spec.
Check/adjust timing to STOCK spec. Check all wires (resistance meter), if in doubt, replace 'em with stock ones, and take them off when the test is done. Label the box "wires for emissions test only". Put a new, Kmart/Walmart, $6 air filter on. After the test, take it off, and label it "emissions test only".
Remove the distributor cap. Check it out. If it's not melted like mine, clean all the carbon deposits off the inside terminals with a small file. Be careful not to file the terminals at an angle! Clean the rotor, too. Spray carb/choke cleaner inside your carb to clean all the crap out. Make sure your EGR opens as it should. Don't forget to check "tire thread depth" (the penny trick), steering, brakes, etc.Some causes of emissions:
1. High CO: Running lean (change the air filter Not enough Oxygen is getting into the car to make CO into CO2!)
2. High HC: Misfiring cylinder
3. High HC & CO: Misfiring, running lean
4. High NOx: EGR wasn't kicking in
The test should be the ASM-5015 test, which means "50% load at 15 mph".
Oh yeah- I also used "Guaranteed to Pass" from Pep Boys, instead of Dry Gas. You put it in a full tank of gas, drive till the tank is almost empty, fill up with another tank of gas, and go ASAP to the emissions test. I think the bottle was $8. Ask for a copy of the printout, and let us know how you did! Good luck on passing!!
NJ was suposed to drop the whole emmissions check stuff? damn i hope that does happen. also i have a whole new ignition system from batter to plug to wires to starter and cap and rotor. and i have a brand new K&N on for the air filter. and i cleaned the hell out of the carb yesturday. and today im goin to drop in the 2 bottles of dry gas and hope to go get more tonight. with the tires do the check the center of the tire like the center 2 treads?
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Well, no matter how new your ignition system is, you might want to take the 20 minutes to check it all over anyway... Especially cleaning the plugs! (Carb/choke cleaner can loosen up crap that'll carbon up your plugs.)
Probably do the check where the tires are the most worn down. 'Course, failing for tires isn't as big a deal as failing emissions!
Probably do the check where the tires are the most worn down. 'Course, failing for tires isn't as big a deal as failing emissions!
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