hi i don't have a car yet but i'm trying to figure out exactly what i'm going to do with it when i buy one. i'm looking to buy a 87-92 camaro rs or iroc with the 305 and tbi. and hot-rod that but my budget is very limited and i need to get some gas mileage.but my question is what do i have to do to get the camshaft out besides take off all the front dress the intake and all that fun stuff. will i have to pull the engine or can i get it out without pulling the engine out

 

The cam can be taken out with the motor in the car, you'll have to take all the stuff off the front of the motor to get to the timing chain cover, water pump, pulleys, remove the balancer and take the front few bolts on each side of the oil pan and pry it down to get the cover off, you'll have to remove the fans, radiator, and the air conditioning (sp) condenser. this should free up enough room to get the cam out of the motor.

 

JPL,

If the car has air conditioning, you can MOVE the condenser out of the way rather than disconnecting and removing it. There is generally enough slack in the lines and hoses to allow lifting the condenser high enough to clear the camshaft.

You'll also have to remove the timing chain and cover, which will require the oil pan to be loosened (not removed) so that it can drop about ½" at the front edge. Of course, you'll want to install a new timing chain and sprockets with the new cam.

And to remove the timing cover, you'll have to remove the harmonic balancer. You'll need to acquire a puller designed for this purpose. You should also get or make an installation tool so that you don't damage the crankshaft snout or balancer hub by driving the balancer back on or trying to pull it on with the crankshaft center bolt.

Of course, a new camshaft should include new lifters. You'll have to inspect the push rods for tip wear and overall straightness. If you replacement cam will have peak lifts over 0.450", you should change the pressed-in rocker arm studs to screwed studs to prevent pullout.

And with the same lift constraints, the stock valve springs should be replaced with improved springs. Stock springs have a very low seat pressure and inadequate spring rates to control the valves at high lifts and higher RPMs. Fortunately, the studs and springs can be changed without removing the heads if you are careful and patient.

 

I have a question, i just bought an edelbrock performer for my 87 cc-q jet 305, would i have to change my studs also, i have a set 350 interceptor heads that have 500 mi on a rebuild, could i use those either?



89 T/a 305 q-jet

 

You say you can put screw in studs in while on the car? Can you just tap the holes or what? How much do the studs cost, because I have access to a pretty large tapping kit if that is all I need.

Ben

 

Shouldn't have to replace the lifters on an '87-later engine, since they're rollers.

 

you can tap them, but you'll have metal shavings all over the place. Be sure to cover up any and ALL openings in the heads first. And tapping the head for the stud threads isn't a great idea, it would be better to drill and tap for HeliCoils to screw the studs into.

~M~

 

Explain helicoils, and where can I get these and the studs, and how much will the stuff cost?

Ben

 

so the lifters on a 87 or newer tbi car are rollers?because i heard it was only tpi cars that came with the rollers. thank you for answering my questions i don't know much but i'm trying to learn

 

helicoils are available at Autozone/Parts America or Advance Auto. All you would have to do is drill the right size hole then install the helicoil which is the threads for the hole.

For all other parts you can get springs, keepers, and valve from
Summit, Jegs or your favorite High Performance Store Online

 

I know, I already have new springs, keepers, valves, lifters, cam and soforth, but I still have push in studs. So do if you just drill the holes and put helicoils in how is that better than push in studs? Wont they just pull out like the push in studs would have?

Ben

 

a helicoil is just a thread repairer. the helicoil comes in a kit which contains: a wound piece of metel (the helicoil) that looks like a spring, a tap, a plastic installation tool and possibly a drill bit.

how to use it.
1) drill the hole to the size indicated on the package.
it willl be larger than the thread size you want to end up with.
2) use the supplied tap to cut threads into your newly enlarged hole.
3) screw the installation tool into the helicooil.
4) screw the helicoil in.
5) unscrew the installation tool.

i don't know why it was advised not to just tap the stud holes.
my best guess is that the screw in and press in studs are roughly the same size. so while you may be able to tap the heads and get everything to work right, you may not get a complete thread engagement which would cause the stud to strip out under heavy load or high revs. check with others to verify the reason.

jess