I was curious what lift you will begin to have problems with pressed in studs if you have the right springs and all. Would the xe268 w/ 477/480 have a problem?

Ben

 

Your stud type (screw-in versus pressed-in) depends more on the valve spring pressures. If you have race strength valve springs, with an agressive roller cam, you may need screw in studs. If money is not an option, I'd recommend them anyways. They're good insurance.
For a specific number on what I'd recommend for top spring pressures on pressed in studs, I'd look up the specs on the K-motion K-700's, and I'd say any seat pressures higher than that, and screw-in studs are necessary.
Lots of guys run the 700's with pressed-in studs, and I've not heard of any failures.

 

the springs make the differance, but as a rule a cam around .470 will need screw in studs. the press in studs are more accurately called pull out studs, it's just a matter of time.

 

Its more of a safety catch than anything. I've run almost .500 lift on pull out studs and 6500rpm shifts. Its just peace of mind that with screw ins they arent gonna just come out of the head.

 

Ok, here is the deal. My car has not been runing for several months. It started out that the 305 bit the dust. I have put a 3.45 9 bolt in, 1le drive shaft, rebuilt the tranny, got a gta interior, and upgraded the rear brakes and put performance pads and braided lines all around(I want to be able to stop if I can go). Well, I got a pretty fresh 350 short block from a friends dad. My cousin and I ported the crap out of my lg4 heads. These should also raise the compression to just over 10:1 because fo the 58 cc chambers I believe. I have a set of stainless 1.94 and 1.5 valves I was going to put in them, but I was advised not to put any more money in these heads. Well, I was looking at aftermarket heads and decided if I was going to put down some money for aftermarket heads I would go all out with some afr 190's. I would like to do this, but I really miss my car and would like to get it going as soon as possible. With the money I have I could probably either buy the heads and save up some more money to get the rest of the stuff I need to get the car going, or if I could use these heads I could buy most of the stuff I still need to get it running. If you guys dont think that these heads will hold up to it I will buy the afrs and wait to get the car going. If the would hold up I have a roller block that I want to make a stroker out of and thought of just waiting to get the afrs until I got that motor ready. I know that I could make these heads work although probably not perform the best, but I dont want to put any more money in them. Does anyone know if there will be any interference by the valve bosses or whatever they are called with this lift? Let me know what you guys think. Here is a link to the springs that I have that match this cam since you guys said that that makes the difference. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=9516 Also, I was wondering if a stud did happen to pull out would it damage anything other than the head? Thanks for the help.

Ben

 

Deffinatly go with the screw in studs if you ask me, I just went through the trouble of having the stockers pull out on me and had to take my motor back out and take the heads in to be machined for the threaded kind. Check out this post there are some pictures in there and alot of good info that Vader gave me.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=109770

 

Great - now I've got you saying it...

I'd go with screw-ins on anything that I was planning to run at any decent RPM. Even 0.450" with the correct springs might need screwed studs for safety. For less than $20, it's cheap insurance.