The motor was rebuilt and the car sat for 2 1/2 months. Now I have about another point of compression, 9.6:1 or so.

Here is what I know and tested.

the battery checks out OK
I've tried other batteries
I've tried the original and 2 other starters
new battery cables
ground goes to engine block (with paint well sanded off)
grounding strap from starter bolt to frame
2 heat shields
remote solenoid installed (tried bypassing it too)
jumped positive battery to 'signal' on the remote solenoid
it can be jump and push started
thermocouple on the under the starter blanket only reads about 150*F... I think thats pretty cold considering the y-pipe
on cooler days it 'MIGHT' eventually start... but only if I'm REALLY lucky

You can tell that the starter is trying to start the motor, but it just seems like it can't do it. My alarm disconnects the ignition, not the starter so that shouldn't have anything to do with it, remember I tried to 'force' the solenoid to work. This completely bypasses the rest of the car and narrows the search down to getting power to the starter, the battery, and the starter itself. But could there be anything that I am overlooking?

 

Get rid of the weenie little POS stock starter.

I had the same problem, except that I have a 10.4:1 400... imagine that sitation. I go a CVR mini-starter, now it spins the motor at least twice as fast as the stock one could spin the stock 305. No heat problem whatsoever.

 

I was sorta thinking that now, but I really don't like buying parts blindly. But out of curiosity, what kind of battery do you have and how many CCA does it have. Right now I have a Diehard Gold with 720 CCA.

Also, how well do those mini/high torque starters fit. My neighbor says that he has had some very bad experiences getting them to line up correctly/

 

is the starter shimmed properly from the flywheel, if the gears are too tight the starter will not spin the motor like it should.

 

Well it starts great when it is cold, and also I had the problem with my original starter... and that didn't use any shims. So if it worked before the rebuild why wouldn't it work after?

 

Sometimes we upgrade our motors and forget the little things like starters.....I second RB's suggestion.

 

When I dropped the 355 in mine, the 305 starter would'nt work cause the flywheel was ALOT bigger on the 350, the mini starter my friend gave me would'nt work-right now I can't remeber exactly, it was like a bolt in and starter snout interferred with something, so I bought a starter for a 70 camaro with a 350, yes it's huge and damn near rests against my full tube headers, but it starts everytime, even after going in circles for test n tune. I'm running 9.6:1 with 36 degrees total advance after 2500 rpm BTW.

 

The tech guy at Summit suggested a starter from a '71 Impala with a 402. Aparently it is the most powerful starter GM ever built. But with that one, just like the one from a '70 Camaro, is made for the larger 168 tooth flywheel. I have the smaller 153 tooth flywheel.

But thanks for the suggestion, I guess I just didn't think that the extra compression would make that much of a difference.

 

Is your car a auto/manual? If its a manual test the Clutch Safety Switch. If you short it out........with a little wire it will bypass it allowing your car to start like an auto. Im willing to bet that with all that other stuff youve checked that this is your problem.

 

That sounds like a good idea and I will try it, but I'm not too hopefull that it will work. For the remote solenoid I jumped power from the battery to the 'S' terminal. So that bypassed everything inside the car.

But thanks for the suggestion. I guess a paper clip would work?

 

I don't recall exactly what brand battery I have, but it's the same thing I always buy... it's the electrically largest Johnson Controls product (NOT Exide) that will fit in the car. The top of the line Diehard and Delco batteries are made by Johnson, the cheaper ones are made by Exide, I will not waste my money on an Exide product. The different mfrs are easy to spot visually regardless of whose label is on them.

I had no trouble with the CVR fitting. I have a 400, the extra bolt hole it has to have for the 12¾" 153-tooth flywheel is drilled in it, and a stock 83 L69 flywheel ("unbalanced" for the 400 of course). It required about 1/16" of shims. Regular real starter bolts, the kind with the special knurled area behind the threads, will not work; I had to use the ones that came with the starter.

The safety switch will not cause slow cranking.

 

Well the safety switch isn't the culprit, and I used a large wire instead of a paper clip. About the same size as the wires ging into the plug.

RB83L69, I haven't even heard of Johnson Controls. But will look for them the next time I need a battery.

But here is another general starter question. How in the world would I check for proper shimming with a manual transmission?? I mean the bellhousing is 360 degrees, so you just can't look in there and see. Of course I know I could pull the tranny, but I'm looking for other ideas!

 

You'll never see a battery that says "Johnson Controls" on the side of it.

There are very few actual manufacturers of batteries, at the really mass market level. The major labels just buy them and order them in their color of plastic, their stick-on labels, etc. Exide makes the majority of the high-volume market batteries in the country; Johnson makes a much better product, but it's more expensive, and theirs is often the premium one in a product line. The best Diehard, whatever they're calling it this month, is usually a Johnson, while the rest are all Exide.

When you're in Sears, mention to the sales person off-hand that you want a Johnson battery and not an Exide. You will either get a clear-cut answer or a blank stare. If you get the latter, ask for a new clerk, that stayed awake during battery training.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by slowTA
[B]Well the safety switch isn't the culprit, and I used a large wire instead of a paper clip. About the same size as the wires ging into the plug.

sorry, I didnt see the thing about it turning over slowly. Sounds like a lack of juice. But at least you know how to bypass your safety switch

 

Haha, that is a good point and I'm going to keep that wire in the storage box under the hatch... just in case!

Since it does sound like a lack of power getting to the strater thats why I'm asking what kind/size battery everyone is using.