Put a new cam in my 355, it's a crane 226/234, 114 LS hydrolic cam. I really don't want to screw anything up because the superram is a PITA to install and take apart so I want to do this right the first time. Zero Lash, what's the best way, or how do you know you've found it with brand new lifters? I want to get these close to get the cam broke in, then will readjust them with it running. I am running 1.6 crane aluminum roller rockers. This is the first time I've had to adjust valves on a new cam/lifters or without the motor running and the valves already close. Thanks in advance

 

There are other posts regarding this issue if you search it, but as long as I'm writing I'll tell ya the way I did mine. I got the Lunati 292 duration .480 lift hydraulic cam. Stand the lifters up so the push rod end faces teh ceiling in a bowl and cover them with motor oil, most people say soak over night before installing so they "gravity bleed" and fill with oil. When I set my valve lash, I have the (full aluminum roller rockers) also, I pushed down on the rocker arm where the push rod seats and held pressure there while a buddy turned the motor by hand, once the lifter was as far down the bore as it could go, I tightened the rocker arm while spinning the pushrod, as soon as it quit spinning with normal finger pressure I went 1/2 turn more on the rocker arm nut and then locked it into place. I did this for each lifter-it does take awile and is very time consuming, BUT, I've NEVER had the valve cover off the car since I bolted them on the engine stand. Everyone has their own way of doing things and this is what I did and what worked for me. oh, P.S. it's alot easier doing this with the intake off so you can see where exactly the lifter is at.

 

Tighten the nut till there is slight resistance on the pushrod as you spin it.

 

i believe the engine running way is better, but i do it cold like was already said on a new engine. hot let the engine idle and loosn a rocker nut until it ticks then tighten it till it stops then go 1/2 turn more.

 

I did do a search, I guess I didn't use the right key words because most of what I found just said go to zero lash and 1/4 to 1/2 turn from there. I didn;t really get an explanation of finding zero lash. Thanks for the help

 

I adjust all my valves on the stand using the exhaust opening intake closing method. Your roller rockers will make the task easier compared to stamped rockers and lock nuts.

Loosly install all your pushrods and rockers and back off your allen screws a round or two that are in the center of your rocker nuts. Bump engine over with a remote starter switch or clockwise by hand until you see the #1 exhaust rocker or pushrod begin to rise, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder by turning the 5/8 headed nut while feeling the pushrod, when all the up and down play is gone and you feel a SLIGHT resistance while spinning it you can then go an additional 1/4-1/2 turn, now hold nut in place while tightening the center allen screw. turn engine over until intake(the one you just adjusted) rises to max lift and then start to close, when it is almost closed stop and set the exhaust on that cylinder just like the intake and your done with that cylinder, Do #8 next and follow the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 this will allow you to do the job alot quicker.

If done right you can bolt your covers on and forget about it.

 

I use a .002 or .001 feeler gauge, + 1/3 turn one valve at a time. I also do this during a build while the intake is off, so I can see what I'm doing. It can be done this way on an already built engine too, but you have to have a good feel for it. Roller rockers do make it easier too.