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Hydraulic roller or Solid roller ?

Old Sep 8, 2002 | 04:39 AM
  #1  
Odyssey's Avatar
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Hydraulic roller or Solid roller ?

So I got some nicely ported AFR210s and an LT1 intake. Thinking about what cam to go with ? I was recommend something in the 230/240 at 0.050 and 600/600 lift. My dillemma is... solid or hydraulic ? With a solid... do you REALLY have to check and/or set the lash every week ? Do they REALLY give you that much more horsepower over a hydraulic cam ? I'd appreciate any opinions. Thanx
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 06:32 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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with .6 or more lift i'd run a solid and rev kit. if you're going to be running .6 lift you'll be doing a lot of maintance anyway and running the valves won't be a big deal and it isn't that bad to do.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 10:45 AM
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Re: Hydraulic roller or Solid roller ?

Originally posted by Odyssey
So I got some nicely ported AFR210s and an LT1 intake.
How much metal is left in the LT1 intake when you port matched it to the AFR210s? I say this because the "regular" Miniram supposedly doesn't have too much metal left when you port match to big port heads.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 11:08 AM
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From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
you wont find too many solid rollers with those specs

Most start in the 250-255 degree range.
I think it should depend on what rpm you plan on turning.

I have a cammotion hyd-roller with .596" intake (w 1.6s) and 238 duration and it will keep a 400 happy at 6000. Most 400s don't turn much more rpm that than.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 11:57 AM
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If your valve train is properly set up (SPRINGS!!!! SPRINGS!!!! and in case that isn't enough information, VALVE SPRINGS!!!!!!!) then the stress on the parts won't cause the valve lash to grow very rapidly; and if you learn how to adjust them perfectly (NOT the "set engine to #1 firing, adjust 8 valves, then set to #6 firing, adjust the other 8" method, or similar shortcuts), you'll start out with all 16 valves at the same, exactly correct lash rather than all over the place. I mention adjustment technique because most people don't do it as meticulously as they should, and one or 2 valves start to tick right away, and they think the valves aren't staying adjusted when the reality is that they weren't lashed correctly to begin with.

I can usually get at least 10,000 miles on an adjustment, and they're as quiet as hydraulics for the entire interval.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 03:18 PM
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The LT1 intake and the heads were portmatched to a 1206 gasket. The LT1 intake still has MORE room to go ! We thought we might have to weld a bead of aluminum at the top of the ports. Didnt have to.

I have dual springs that have more then enough seat pressure. I think I'll go with a hydraulic roller, since this will be a daily driver again. This is why I'm going back to fuel injection. Jcb999 is that cam for sale ?
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 04:58 PM
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From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
well.. I would have to replace it with something :)

and i don't know of anyone that has much better right now..

But, it is available from cammotion ..
Each CM cam is ground to the specs for your combination. I needed a reduced base circle and it was 350.. normal BCs are about 300.

It does sound pretty good though..

http://cis.tamu.edu/~jcb9392/idle.MPG

I do have a comp that I pulled out of the previous 400 thats got a little less intake duration,, (230) and .600 intake lift with a 1.6
Ext is 236 and .555" with a 1.6

It has about 19 hours on it.
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