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timing degree?? what should it be??

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Old Sep 26, 2002 | 11:57 PM
  #1  
KiLLJ0Y
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timing degree?? what should it be??

trying to figure out where my degree for timing should be

see sig for mods.. but the short block is an LG4...

i tried looking in my Haynes manual but the damn thing doesnt say where the it should be at.

my dad is guessing 5* below top dead center.. but im really not sure.

i have a timing gun, course i have never used one but i have the manual on how to go about hooking it up.


any suggestions or tech articles on this? and dont say use the search cause i did and nothing of value came up.
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 12:20 AM
  #2  
RedFirebird's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 649
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From: San Rafael, CA
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700RJunk
The factory specification is 6 degrees BTDC. You should be able to increase that significantly because that motor has lost a significant amount of compression due to normal wear, in addition to the fact that factory specs are a little conservative. I'd say around 9-12 degrees.........
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 01:15 PM
  #3  
Damon's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 7,072
Likes: 13
From: Philly, PA
The original spec for an LG-4 equipped car was 0* BTDC. HOWEVER..... it depends on the ECM and chip a lot more than what the iron under the hood is. In any case, even if it WAS or IS all LG-4 stuff it'll like 6-8* BTDC a LOT more than the original 0* spec.

So..... I agree with the above post, although I got there a little differently.
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 01:44 PM
  #4  
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
If you have a advance timing light,
temperarily disconect the vacuum advance line from the distributor. Set the timing to 32-36 deg with the motor at high rpm (4000+).

Reconnect the vacuum advance to "ported vacuum"
If you do this correctly, your timing should be 10 to 16 deg @ idle. Just right.....
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 05:12 PM
  #5  
Damon's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 7,072
Likes: 13
From: Philly, PA
Whoops, sorry, I think we need to clear something up here first.....

When you replaced the original computer controlled carb you DID also replace the computer controlled distributor with a non-computer controlled one, right?? If not you need to do that first. Running the old computer controlled distributor on the computer with a non-computer controlled carb is a big no-no. The ECM freaks when it doesn't see the cc-carb there anymore, goes into "limp home" mode, and gives you a HORRIBLE advance curve. If this is the case you are giving up a TON of power.

Once you get a non-computer controlled distributor in there (a Summit HEI distributor is an excellent, cheap, bolt-in replacement for this) try 12* B(before)TDC, vacuum advance disconnected, for starters.

Last edited by Damon; Sep 27, 2002 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 07:14 PM
  #6  
KiLLJ0Y
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the computer is non-existent... i bought the car that way.

the distributer is an HEI, with a new accel coil, new cap, new wires. even before all this.. this car FLYS!!!!... just needed to know the degree for timing.
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