I cant seem to get my timing cover to go back on with the oil pan seal in it. I have the correct seal, actually the same one I pulled out since it has few miles on it. Does anyone know a trick to this or do I have to drop the oil pan?

 

you can force it on, drop the pan a little, or remove some or all of the back lip on the timing cover. it's made so the timing cover goes on before the oil pan.

 

Man, getting that timing cover on is the most frustrating thing. Unless you drop the oil pan, you will have to grind the back of the lip down some. I ground the top of the lip some, and then tapered it back. You will still need some force as you work the bottom back in. Also, remove the first three or four oil pan bolts on each side.
Heres a picture of how I ground the lip: (exscuse the bad drawing!)

 

I just clip the edges of the lip with a pair of dykes, kinda like Truckman's picture. It takes a little force but if you use the original seal it makes it easyer.

 

I did the exact same thing. No leaks or anything so far. I did a complete head and cam swap on my car and I swear the timing cover was by far the hardest thing to get back on.

 

That's about the size of it... it's not practical to try to mash it down hard enough to compress the rubber seal, and be accurate enough to get it over the dowel pins.

Loosen the fron 3 or so oil pan bolts on each side; cut just a little of off the corners of the back lip on the TC (doesn't need very much removed, just 1/8" or so off the last 1/4" of the corners) ; then it will go in easily. No leaks in a number of cars I've had to do that way.

 

Loosen the pan. I was too lazy to do it and I managed to have my timing cover leak after taking it off three times in a row. Whoops. I was never to lazy to wrestle the damn thing on there, though

 

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Loosen the pan. I was too lazy to do it and I managed to have my timing cover leak after taking it off three times in a row. Whoops. I was never to lazy to wrestle the damn thing on there, though

Ditto that. I spent dam near 2 hours fighting with the timing cover before I actually got it back on, and how I managed that was some sort of miracle. In retrospect, I could have saved myself 1.5 hours, and ten times the frustration if I'd just dropped the pan down.

 

Has anyone ever tried those 2 piece timing covers where you don't have to disturb the oil pan seal, just curious, I've heard of these but never new of anyone useing one, anyone here use one?

 

Yep, Ive got one on my truck. Its very easy to swap cams but if the engine "some how" gets turned just a little the whole cover has to come off to align the marks.

 

I got it back on. It was a PITA, but I figured out a 'trick' to it. I didnt have to grind the lip on the timing cover or anything. I set the timing cover on the engine, it would sit almost all the way against it, but the bottom would not go pasth the oil pan lip. So I put the top 2 timing cover bolts on to hang the cover in place from, then took a hammer to the bottom of it, and sure enough, it slid into place.

 

i found it easiest to just drop the pan. c'mon guys it's only like 10 bolts you have to take out as to hours of fighting with that damn cover. trust me it's easier that way.
also on a side note it's alot easier with 2 people. one up top and somebody underneath (anybody have a smart@ss commment about that?).

 

Well actually in order to take the pan "OFF" you have to raise the engine and drop the exhaust. Its not a fun job as many of us know and if you have an older style engine with the cork gasket that increases the time for cleanup. But I do see your point Rat, why mess around when you know what need to be done. I persoanlly just clip the edges of the timing cover and it never takes me more then 10 minutes to get it back on.

 

You know, I've worked on more than just a few engines and it never occurred to me to try to force the timing cover into place without dropping the pan.

I gotta go try this on one of my junk motors. I jsut can't beleive it can be done without causing massive oil leaks. Belive me, I'd love to avoid dropping the pan- it's a PITA. It's a LOT more work than "just undoing a few more bolts" on some cars where crossmemeber clearance is tight or you have to clear stuff outta the way to even get a wrench on some of them.

So no "contempt prior to investigation" here. I hope it works as well as you all say!

My best solution (up to now) is to buy a FelPro one-piece pan gasket ($38). It's a LOT easier than the old cork & rubber multi-piece arrangement when you're working on your back. No sealant required (except maybe a little blob in the corners) and it practially lines itself up automatically.

 

I myself have built several engines as well as repaired many inside of cars/trucks. I have never had any leak from trimming the edges of the timing cover lip. That includes older and newer style small blocks. I have never had to force the cover on either, since it goes in rather easily with the modifications. I would like to try WARDS suggestion sometime to see if it works (perhaps not on my Camaro however . Does that leak at all Ward?

Oh, and I definatly agree with using the rubber oil pan gasket. I'll never use cork again. Even after 180,000 miles, I have had the rubber gaskets come off of engines w/o sticking at all.

 

If you remove the starter and pull all of the pan bolts you can lower the pan without touching the exhaust. I just remove all of the pan bolts on the driver side and the ones back to the starter. That gives me enough flex to get the cover on and off. I also dog ear the lip on the cover.



Brian Felts