What the hell are these!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
The dash pad, is the thing that is under the front window, kind of hard to explain, never had to explain it before. Right in front of you, that runs the width of the car where your front speakers are.
Your replacing the heater core? I've checked out mine before because I thought it might be leaking. I don't think the location is different from camaro to camaro so.... It should be near the foot area of the passenger. right above where your feet would be if you were the passenger is a plastic piece that you can unscrew. It aslo hold the interior light near that foot area. After you take that off, theres another thing to unscrew that probably extends from behind the console of the car (where your stereo and stuff is) to the middle of that foot area. After your remove that, it should be there, looks like a mini radiator. If all else fails, just start unscrewin stuff till ya find it
Good luck!
- Tom
Good luck! - Tom
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
With your 85 you dont need to remove the dash or lower the coulmb or any other BS. Just do as Mark said and remove the lower pannle on the passenger side 5/16 screws. You will see a curved box with 5 or 6 screws on the cover, remove the cover and unscrew the metel divider. If you disconnected you heater lines it will slide right out.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
be prepared unless u have any animals that u dont like that lick floors
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: T56
if you dont want it to pour antifreeze everywhere and the leak isn't terrible you can unplug both your heater hoses at the water pump and blow in one, it'll all pour out the other hose and you can catch it. don't swallow any antifreeze
Alright, well I ripped off all the panels. I pulled the top off and the two lower panels, I see the core (I think? ) is it a black plastic box with like metal strips going down the side (in which my case are an orangy rusted color) and tehere is like foamy type of stuff around it (in which case si soaked with antifreeze... )
I worked on it for 1 and a half hours, (from 4:00 to 5:30) and I am at step 4 on teh heatercore removal tutorial...
BTW how much does a new heater core cost?
I worked on it for 1 and a half hours, (from 4:00 to 5:30) and I am at step 4 on teh heatercore removal tutorial...
BTW how much does a new heater core cost?
Here is a picture of the heater core in my 89. I took the whole dash off to re-do some other things behind there and while i was at it, i went ahead and replaced the heater core. The area i circled is where the heater core is/goes. i already removed mine though. hope this helps, brad
alright well that looks somewhat similar to what looks like.... A claerer pic would be good too though...
I don't want to go take something out that I don't have too. you know what I mean..
I don't want to go take something out that I don't have too. you know what I mean..
The heater core is the only thing underneath the dash that has this bright green liquid in it.....
It will look like a mini-radiator, that has two rubber lines leading into it.......
Also lay down a few towels to make sure the liquid doesn't go all over too..........But yeah you are on the right track, the heater core is the thing with the antifreeze all over it..........
It will look like a mini-radiator, that has two rubber lines leading into it.......
Also lay down a few towels to make sure the liquid doesn't go all over too..........But yeah you are on the right track, the heater core is the thing with the antifreeze all over it..........
SS,
You can do it either way. Removing the upper dash pad isn't that difficult, but you can remove the large screw in the lower right corner of the dash and reach that elusive top screw that way if you have enough ¼" extensions.
But before you do any of that, drain the radiator so you don't have to deal with excessive coolant in the passenger compartment. Flush it with water and you won't have any coolant mess on the carpet. Just remove the core hoses from the engine compartment and flush through it for a while. The hoses have to come off anyway.
And don't joke too much about letting your animals drink the spilled coolant. The sweet aroma of the mixture attracts animals, so they tend to drink it. The silicates in the coolant crystalize in their livers, lacerating the liver from the inside. They die a slow, painful death by internal bleeding, blood contamination, and hemmorage. I spent over $1,100 (US) to get two antidote kits for my Lab (and had to drive 120 miles to get the second one) when I only thought he might have tasted it. Tests showed traces in his urine, and three days later he was alive only because of the treatment. (Just another reason to use DexCool.)
Match the replacement carefully, since the angle of the standpipes is crucial. I tried three replacements before I got one that was right and didn't interfere with the rear of the right cylinder head.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Just a side note, I always suspected that was the correct way to spell "Canada" - "C, eh. N, eh. D, eh."
Just pulling your chain a little. (Most of you Canucks know how I really feel.) I still haven't forgotten the Tehran thing. Nor the Normandy thing. Nor the Desert Storm thing... etc.
I am a little pissed about Lord Stanley's Cup, though. (I bet most of you didn't even know he wore one.)
You can do it either way. Removing the upper dash pad isn't that difficult, but you can remove the large screw in the lower right corner of the dash and reach that elusive top screw that way if you have enough ¼" extensions.
But before you do any of that, drain the radiator so you don't have to deal with excessive coolant in the passenger compartment. Flush it with water and you won't have any coolant mess on the carpet. Just remove the core hoses from the engine compartment and flush through it for a while. The hoses have to come off anyway.
And don't joke too much about letting your animals drink the spilled coolant. The sweet aroma of the mixture attracts animals, so they tend to drink it. The silicates in the coolant crystalize in their livers, lacerating the liver from the inside. They die a slow, painful death by internal bleeding, blood contamination, and hemmorage. I spent over $1,100 (US) to get two antidote kits for my Lab (and had to drive 120 miles to get the second one) when I only thought he might have tasted it. Tests showed traces in his urine, and three days later he was alive only because of the treatment. (Just another reason to use DexCool.)
Match the replacement carefully, since the angle of the standpipes is crucial. I tried three replacements before I got one that was right and didn't interfere with the rear of the right cylinder head.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Just a side note, I always suspected that was the correct way to spell "Canada" - "C, eh. N, eh. D, eh."
Just pulling your chain a little. (Most of you Canucks know how I really feel.) I still haven't forgotten the Tehran thing. Nor the Normandy thing. Nor the Desert Storm thing... etc.
I am a little pissed about Lord Stanley's Cup, though. (I bet most of you didn't even know he wore one.)
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From: Somewhere in between Lynn, MA (home) and Lakeland, FL (school)
your local parts shop can probably take care of it for you, but you'll probably have to pay a small fee for toxic waste processing...
core should set you back about 35 bux.
When you re-install, be careful when you tighten down the hose clamps... copper is a soft metal, if you go to tight you'll warp them and you're talking about doing the whole job over again. for this reason you may want to start the car up and let the thermosat come on before you bolt up all the interior pannels, so you don't find out after re-assembling for an hour and a half that you're leaking again. Like i did.
core should set you back about 35 bux.
When you re-install, be careful when you tighten down the hose clamps... copper is a soft metal, if you go to tight you'll warp them and you're talking about doing the whole job over again. for this reason you may want to start the car up and let the thermosat come on before you bolt up all the interior pannels, so you don't find out after re-assembling for an hour and a half that you're leaking again. Like i did.
alright, I am having amajor problem, the box that rthe heater core is in ... I can't get it off, there is like a screw inside that I dunno how to get!
How can I get that damn box off, btw how many screws are holding it on?
Can anyone help me?!
i can stick my hand inside and I can feel the core. but I dunno how to get that cover off! arg!
How can I get that damn box off, btw how many screws are holding it on?
Can anyone help me?!
i can stick my hand inside and I can feel the core. but I dunno how to get that cover off! arg!
I'm not positive on the actual screw count, but there is a "hidden" screw at the top edge of the case. That's the one that many people remove the dash pad to access. Beyond that, there should only be a foam gasket sticking the two halves together. The entire box does not need to be removed, only the cover (rearward half). Removing the entire core box would require a lot more disassembly.
i think I already got that screw that screw is for the other panel, the one that you can see from the passengers compartment, I am tlking about the actual heater core casing, the plastic around the heater core... ,,, but I will check ...
there are four screws that hold that on. 2 in front side and 2 in back. when you remove those pull out the core with that black piece togethor. there is also one screw on the bottom of the other black outside box that you can take out to make this easier just make sure you align the door right when you put it back.
Originally posted by ohohblita
there are four screws that hold that on. 2 in front side and 2 in back. when you remove those pull out the core with that black piece togethor. there is also one screw on the bottom of the other black outside box that you can take out to make this easier just make sure you align the door right when you put it back.
there are four screws that hold that on. 2 in front side and 2 in back. when you remove those pull out the core with that black piece togethor. there is also one screw on the bottom of the other black outside box that you can take out to make this easier just make sure you align the door right when you put it back.
How would i get through that door to get that screw?
no there is a piece of plastice that the heater core attaches to.
this is the piece that your are trying to unscrew.
you should not need to get past any of the cardboard doors.
just follow the outside of this plastice piece, about the same size as the core, and you will find the 2 screws in front and 2 along the back.
this is the piece that your are trying to unscrew.
you should not need to get past any of the cardboard doors.
just follow the outside of this plastice piece, about the same size as the core, and you will find the 2 screws in front and 2 along the back.
Originally posted by ohohblita
not feel "around"
by "back" i really meant "rear of the front" sorry to confuse you.
there are 4 screws on the front. two are "further back".
not feel "around"
by "back" i really meant "rear of the front" sorry to confuse you.
there are 4 screws on the front. two are "further back".
can you describe the whereabouts of these screws?
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