I have my cam retarded 2*. My base timing is set at 6*.

I changed my rockers so I had to re-do my valve lash. That went ok. To find TDC I set the dist rotor pointing directly at the post on the cap for the cyl I'm adjusting. I have an old dist cap I cut the top off and use the rotor cap alignment for indicator.

How does the cam being retarded 2* affect this? To get true base circle on the cam should I be turning the HB past 0 by 2* ? Since my lines drawn on the HB are not exact, where should the dist rotor be in relation to the cap posts?

 

not sure i'd trust your method to truely locate TDC. i always watched the valves to tell when they were closed and then used a feeler gage to set lash, or spin the puch rod depending on the cam, but if the engine runs it's better and easier to run the valves with the engine running.

 

If you are adjusting the valve lash you can see when the cams are at the top of their lift and bottom, by following the instructions in the manual. You watch one set lifting and that tells you which set can be adjusted.

This will apply whatever the cam timing is. Also you should not rely on the engine TDC to set the cam, you have to know when you are right on the back of the cam, which does not always coincide with TDC.

Also if the cam and ingition timing were out, you would not be finding TDC, and considering you don't even necessarily want TDC you will be adding up all the errors in the system and adding another when you set the lash.

In other words, it is probably not a reliable process, but admirably inovative for sure.

 

Regardless of the cam timing, the intake valve should be closed at least 100° before TDC on the compression stroke and the exhaust valve should not open until at least 80° after TDC on the power stroke. That's a pretty broad range of fully closed valves in which to set lash. I think we might be splitting hairs a bit too much. A couple degrees advance or retard on the cam installation shouldn't make that great a difrference. If you're within 30° of TDC on the compression/power stroke, your valves had both BETTER be closed or you have more problems than lash. And the resultant 60° band should be plenty to work with.

If the balancer hub markings are off by that much, use the crank keyway as a guide. The keyway is usually milled about 2° off TDC of the #1 crank throw (and that's 2° advanced at the front edge of the milling).