a/c compressor
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
a/c compressor
ok the defrost, a/c and bi-lev all run off the compressor correct? if i change compressors i lose all my freon. but if i only change the clutch will i lose my freon then? the clutch is locked up i turn on defrost and it starts smoking. cause it doesnt engage. any help or ideas would be appreciated.
You'll probably have to remove the compressor to remove the clutch. Either way you'll lose your freon. I'd recommend just replacing the compressor. Are you sure it's locked up? Try giving the clutch 12V with the engine running. (be careful when hooking up the wire from the battery to the clutch though. Don't let the wire contact any metal except the pin on the clutch connector....you don't want any firework shows)
Does the compressor smoke all the time? If it smokes then that means the clutch is engaging, but the compressor is locked up. If I understand you correctly you said the compressor smokes when you turn on the a/c and doesn't anytime else. In other words if the compressor only smokes when you turn on defrost, a/c, or bi-lev, then your compressor is locked up, not your clutch. If that's the case you need to replace the compressor. I had the same thing happen to me, the compressor locked up an started smoking the belt. I just disconnected the electrical connector on the compressor so that the clutch can't engage. When I get my car running right again, I'll replace the compressor.
the clutch is nothing more than a metal disc on the front of the compressor. There is a magnet behind the pulley that engages the clutch. The clutch, pulley and magnet should be able to come of the compressor without disconnecting the lines, but it meay be hard to pull those items off with the compressor lines hooked up. You can try though.
-Dave
the clutch is nothing more than a metal disc on the front of the compressor. There is a magnet behind the pulley that engages the clutch. The clutch, pulley and magnet should be able to come of the compressor without disconnecting the lines, but it meay be hard to pull those items off with the compressor lines hooked up. You can try though.
-Dave
Last edited by Arntzman; Nov 20, 2002 at 11:53 PM.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Unplug the clutch wire until you can get it fixed.
Your problem isn't the clutch, it's the compressor. The compressor can't turn so when the clutch engages and the belt is trying to turn the whole thing, it can't.
You'd be best off to rent a recovery machine, and change the compressor. If it was me, I'd change every single O-ring at the same time, put a new accumulator/dryer on it, a new orifice tube, and replace the rubber part of the lines, all at the same time. Do that, it will probably work for many years, and hold its charge much better (whether you stay with R-12 or change it over to R-134a).
Your problem isn't the clutch, it's the compressor. The compressor can't turn so when the clutch engages and the belt is trying to turn the whole thing, it can't.
You'd be best off to rent a recovery machine, and change the compressor. If it was me, I'd change every single O-ring at the same time, put a new accumulator/dryer on it, a new orifice tube, and replace the rubber part of the lines, all at the same time. Do that, it will probably work for many years, and hold its charge much better (whether you stay with R-12 or change it over to R-134a).
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,462
Likes: 4
From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Maybe you can do it with the compressor on the car. According to the manual you need to pull the compressor (lose freon) to pull the clutch.
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