ok guys what oils would you use



also how good is the redline synthetic oil?


and does anyone have (vader I think your being called here) a list of stats for each oil... you know pour rates, viscosity, ash... all that ****

 

i use pennzoil, M1 ,amsoil, and homelite 2cycle depending on where it's going.

 

Rear diff gets any brand straight weight oil since it's a torsen unit. The tranny gets what ever is cheapest.
Motor gets Castrol GTX 10w-30 all year round with only AC Delco oil filters, either PF35 or PF1218.
I figure if I change the oil ever 3000 miles it's better than leaving synthetic stuff in for twice that. Maybe if I was using those complete seal rings and didn't have to worry about fuel getting into the crank case I would use synthetic. I just can't justify the cost when compared to friends of mine that spend $$$ on their oil and have just as many if not more problems then my car. I've just got too heavy of a foot so oil doesn't matter, it's the interval between changes that's more important. Just don't use Penzoil engine oil, it seems to break down a lot faster, not sure why but that's been my experience.

 

Amsoil I hear is the best but hard to find.

I've been using Mobil 1 for a while now.

 

You wouldn't even really consider using a mineral oil in a turbo, would you? With the tight clearances, high load, and heat of the turbine, mineral oil will turn to ash in nearly no time. The oil cooler and turbo lines will fill with carbon coking and soot, and you'll be hunting for another cartridge in short order.

You were just joking, right?

 

I agree with Vader. I've had 2 turbo cars of my own. When I got them both of them had severe coking in the turbo. Most people I know, including myself, ran synthetic oil and used a turbo timer. Using dino juice is like smoking. slow premature death.

 

You're kidding, right? How hard is it to find www.amsoil.com ? Or, "Oils, Lubricating" (or whatever your region calls it) in the Yellow Pages?

 

Amsoil and Redline are the best two in my opinion.
Mobil 1 is good also and it's easier to find locally (at any Kragen)
I run Mobil 1 in my engines and Redline in trannys and rearends of my three cars.
-Rich-

 

most the ppl I know with turbo's (a.k.a the TV rx7 club) use dino juice I think


but I was thinking about using synthetic myself

one question I have about synthetic though is I hear problems of it not burning clean


is that so or do I have nothing to worry about?

 

If you're letting it get into your combustion chamber, it won't burn as clean as gasoline. But, it won't have any more non-burning constituents than petroleum.

The AMSOIL 10W30 full synthetic was formulated with turbo applications in mind. None of that coking stuff mentioned above.

 

have a rotary...

need to burn oil

more or less they have a setup to let oil into the intake manifold to help lube the apex seals

 

Is that "controlled leak" adjustable?

You could likely get by with less lube going directly into the camber with synthetic. I know a bunch of 2-strokes have been using AMSOIL 2-stroke oil at 100:1 and more, vs. normal 25:1 or 50:1.

 

Sorry, I should have clarified, I meant at local stores, like Wal-Mart, Autozone.

 

cheap store will only carry cheap stuff

just don't tell me you try to buy stuff for your motor at wal-mart


I can just see it now

"blue light special at walmart on all cranks. half off normal sale price"

and there goes mark trying to get as many as he can

 

I consider oil cheap stuff so yeah, I get my oil, my fuel filters, my oil filters (AC Delco), my spark plugs (AC Delco), my belts, my hoses, coolant, wiper blades, you name it I get it from there. No sence in spending $$$$ for something that has a simple function. If it was piston rings or something like a bolt you can bet your **** I wouldn't get it from an "autozone" only because the extream conditions require better grade parts. Oil is replaced frequently in an engines life time so why would you want to spend $$$ only to through it away. I've noticed that from all these tests with synthetic vs. oil they never show you the actual real world tests. I don't give a **** if the synthetic gives me 1 hp and a couple ft-lbs of torque. For the price it's not worth it. I also don't plan on running my engine with no oil in the pan so what is up with that damn commercial showing the engines running and locking up? What morons. Again, like I said before. If I was making this my baby and I had money to literaly burn then synthetic is definatly a good choice but for the majority of people it's a wasted effort. You'll probably end up pulling the motor apart well before it starts burning oil so that extra protection doesn't mean squat. Wow did I go off on a tanget with this one. Oh yeah, and when somebody brings up the fact that the corvettes have mobil 1 from the factory I'd like to keep reminding you that it's not an issue, it's so they can 1. squeeze more money out of your pocket and 2. so the motor has less of a chance of being brought in before the warrenty is up. Also if and when you do bring it in for warrenty and they find dyno juice they can tell you tuff, premium charge to fix, your loss. Again, I'm not saying it isn't good stuff because really it is. I'm just pointing out that it's not for everyone, expecially not a low hp per cubes output motor like a v8. Different engines might require the good stuff like forged pistons (loose in the hole), special power band above normal and high oil temps (turbo and power adders), all of which could require such a premium. Just don't go around thinking the Mobil 1 will save your motor from ever needing a rebuild!

 

Never having "played with someone's Wankel", I wouldn't have known that. However, years ago I tried synthetic two-stoke oil in a couple of sleds and while I never had lubrication issues I did notice shorter plug life. I'm sure the formulations have inproved over the years, but I'm using mineral oil in two-strokers for now. If you are injecting/burning oil, you may experience something similar, but as for the turbocharger, synthetic is a better choice IMO.