ignition problem
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 212
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From: milwaukee
Car: 85 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: TH700 R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 drum
ignition problem
i hadnt had any previous problems w/ my ignition until now, but all of a sudden, i can't turn the key over to start the car. The key was also hard to get out of the ignition when it initially messed up, and won't go back to the accessory position either. any ideas what could be wrong? i know i put the car in park before i turned the key off, and I haven't had any problems w/ the starter. The lights and all still operate. Just all of a sudden, my ignition switch isn't working right. At least I was in the garage when it messed up. Any ideas? How much work is it to tear apart the steering column?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Sounds like you don't have a problem with the switch, what's broken is actually the lock cylinder.
You can try a little WD-40 on it, around the outside, but more than likely you'll need to replace it. Not too hard to do; disconnect the negative batt cable, pull the steering wheel, remove the turn signal cam and switch (the switch doesn't have to come all the way out), lift out the key alarm contacts, follow the cylinder instructions from there.
You can try a little WD-40 on it, around the outside, but more than likely you'll need to replace it. Not too hard to do; disconnect the negative batt cable, pull the steering wheel, remove the turn signal cam and switch (the switch doesn't have to come all the way out), lift out the key alarm contacts, follow the cylinder instructions from there.
And if the key is difficult to insert/remove, you might want to try a little graphite in the lock cylinder before you replace the lock. Graphite will lubricate the cylinder without gumming. Blow in a little graphite powder, insert the key and withdraw it a few times to distribute the powder around the plate tumblers, then insert the key and work the cylinder back and forth a few cycles.
If this action doesn't improve the cylinder operation (even slowly), you may be getting into the column to replace the cylinder. If you do, plan on an hour or so for the complete job, if you have the correct tools. You'll need common hand tools, plus a lock plate depressor and steering wheel puller. The cylinder is held in place with a Torx screw, so you'll need either a T-20 or T-25 (I can't remember the exact size) driver.
Here's what to expect:


And as long as you're in that far, you might as well get a small tube of white lithium grease, clean and re-grease the upper column bearing, turn signal switch, switch cancelling cam, and sector/rack gear on the opposite side of the column:
If this action doesn't improve the cylinder operation (even slowly), you may be getting into the column to replace the cylinder. If you do, plan on an hour or so for the complete job, if you have the correct tools. You'll need common hand tools, plus a lock plate depressor and steering wheel puller. The cylinder is held in place with a Torx screw, so you'll need either a T-20 or T-25 (I can't remember the exact size) driver.
Here's what to expect:


And as long as you're in that far, you might as well get a small tube of white lithium grease, clean and re-grease the upper column bearing, turn signal switch, switch cancelling cam, and sector/rack gear on the opposite side of the column:
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