knock sensor conector?
knock sensor conector?
i was in a hurry when i pulled out my motor and cut off the conector that conects the wire to the knock sensor... i put back in my motor and now all i have is a dagling wire for my knock sensor does anyone know where i can get that conector? i was just gona get a new knock snensor hoping it comes with it but it doesnt! grrr... all the junk yards are all closed because of christmas, im to the point where i just might jump a fence!
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iTrader: (9)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,871
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
you may be able to get one at a local parts store. I had this problem with my sensor on the drivers head. I got a new connector at NAPA
KDClaw,
Well, Ed's method would work, but since the signal level from the KS (or any other sensor) can be very low, and crimp connectors never get better with age (99.99% of the time they get worse with exposure to the elements), I would suggest stripping, line-splicing, and soldering the wires. Definitely use heat-shrink tubing to seal the connection after the connection is complete. That, of course, means the tubing will have to be slid on the wire before the soldering.
NOTE: Of all sensors, you NEVER want to crimp the O² sensor connectors of leads. The dissimilarity of the wire alone can generate enough resistance to kill the signal.
Just an anecdotal situation, but I recently had a newer Vortec 350 truck in for a failed fuel pump. Pressure would only make 48 PSIG (59 is the absolute minimum on the sequential CFI system, or they don't operate or even start most of the time). The problem was not the fuel pump, but the fact that a previous mechanic installed a crimp-type butt connector to replace a failed WeatherPack. The connection had degraded and the pump was getting only 8.8V, thus made low pressure. The truck was towed in because someone took the easy way out several months ago, and drove out after a new $10 WeatherPack connector was soldered in place.
Then again, if you're only planning on keeping it for a few months...
Well, Ed's method would work, but since the signal level from the KS (or any other sensor) can be very low, and crimp connectors never get better with age (99.99% of the time they get worse with exposure to the elements), I would suggest stripping, line-splicing, and soldering the wires. Definitely use heat-shrink tubing to seal the connection after the connection is complete. That, of course, means the tubing will have to be slid on the wire before the soldering.
NOTE: Of all sensors, you NEVER want to crimp the O² sensor connectors of leads. The dissimilarity of the wire alone can generate enough resistance to kill the signal.
Just an anecdotal situation, but I recently had a newer Vortec 350 truck in for a failed fuel pump. Pressure would only make 48 PSIG (59 is the absolute minimum on the sequential CFI system, or they don't operate or even start most of the time). The problem was not the fuel pump, but the fact that a previous mechanic installed a crimp-type butt connector to replace a failed WeatherPack. The connection had degraded and the pump was getting only 8.8V, thus made low pressure. The truck was towed in because someone took the easy way out several months ago, and drove out after a new $10 WeatherPack connector was soldered in place.
Then again, if you're only planning on keeping it for a few months...
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 24
From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Vader, I crimpped in a wire for an air/fuel ratio gauge on my O2 sensor. Should I have done this or not? Mt gauge does read real wacky al the time.
hey, thanks everyone for the input! i dont like rigged things on my car so i had to find the conector its ac/delco pn:12102621, napa was out so i had to go to the dealer... grrr... but napa carrys it too. its the same conector as the one on your coolant temp switch...
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