I am new to the world of Camaros, but fell in headfirst when I purchased my 87 Iroc. I have always loved Camaros but not as much as I do now that I have my own!

I know NOTHING about engines, but I am trying to learn (getting laughed at by the mechanic guys around here in South Jersey because apparently pretty girls shouldnt be looking into becoming mechanics). I have currently about 7000 to spend, and a 1987 Iroc that is running like total crap. I've had the air pump, carburator, computer, and spark plug compontents. Also the oxygen sensor, and several other minor fuel system parts. Well quite frankly the shop told me this is what was needed.

When I purchased the Iroc she ran very well, a little louder then the 2000 z28 I test drove before her, but I figured older car would equal a louder car. Two weeks ago I noticed that she was sounding very different, and a few days later she started to shut off when put in reversed. The service engine light always flashes right before it shuts off. It started to sound worse and of course I took it to the shop to get a diagonistic, which said it needed a new carburator. So we replaced the carb, spark plugs, plug wires, the air pump, and various fuel system pieces. Which didn't solve the problem, in fact the car started to get worse, beginning to shut off whenever I had to stop at lights and stop signs. However it did run a little more quietly.

So we took it back, and they said it was the computer. So they replaced the pc. Which made the car stop turning off at stops. It still shuts off in reverse, still is seeming to idle way too low, and as a result its lost power in acceleration. It has now 8 days after I first took it in devolped a new problem, yesterday it made a very loud viberating sound that shook the floor and firewall for a few minutes and then went away. It still intermindatly shutting off in reverse, and once in a while (very rarely) at stops. The engine still sounds like something is wrong, but I am runnign out of ideas... anyone else have any?

 

Some of it sounds like the lockup converter maybe staying locked. to check it simply disconnect the lockup the four prong connector at the front left of the trans and drive it if it stops stalling then there you go. Sounds like you also need another shop.

 

Oh don't worry I've made my first mistake there, a horrible one. i used Pepboys. Biggest Mistake Ever.

I'll try that tommorrow... I just hope I can find what you are talking about.

 

What part of Joisy you from? I live in Northern Jersey, exit 150 off the parkway.

But about your problem... Check your idle in gear. I had a problem when I got my Firebird that it would die when I put it in gear unless I was fast with the gas. I didn't know it at the time (I was a mechanical moron), but my idle was way too low. Could be something REALLY stupid like that, and the Pep Boys morons don't want to fix the simple problems.

 

The more I think about it the more I think that is the real problem. I am in Blackwood, easiest to get to via 676 or 168 =)

 

In park what does your IROC idle at (RPMS)? Should be around 800.

 

She used to do a bit over 2000 when I got her, then you would hi the gs and she would drop down to under 1500, now she remains at or just under 1000 but during stops on the road while in drive she idles at 500 or just above it.

 

Yikes. About an hour and a half away... LOL

Also... Check your fuel filter. Wouldn't surprise me if the Pep Boys idiots replaced the carb and put in the old fuel filter.

 

They charged me for a new one, so they better have given me a new one. I am about readyto jsut replace the whole engine, I've had my eye on a particular one for a few weeks lol... should solve the problem... unless its a tranny thing...

 

Is the motor BUILT? Cam,headers,carb,intake? I had been assuming it was stock if its built the stahl may be to tight for the camshaft causing your idle probs.However that wouldn't solve your vibration prob.

 

Vacuum leak, maybe? Hmmm... If you weren't so far away, I'd drop by and check it out. I've discovered that I've even become good at diagnosing F#@$ engines. LOL

 

The motor in there is stock, the motor I am eyeing is not... Sooner or later I'll have the stock engine pulled and replaced with this sweet little 700 hp 350 that I have been drooling at... but for now I'd like to get the car running somewhat reliably, since money buys engines and getting to work makes money.

 

Aw too far.. even for me =)

 

 

Sorry someone *g* asked me to post a pic, just saw that as a prime time to do so lol...

 

What no house #! sheez!

 

LMAO!!!!!!!!!

Youa re so much more helpful then the idiots in the chat room. This isn't a transmission problem right?

Or could it be?

 

Someone *g* hua?

 

Sounds like the carb just needs adjusted probably the idle mixture screws. I don't think its gonna be the lockup though.

 

Well then, seeing as how as long as its not a trans problem I can afford to purchase teh engine.. all I need now is to price installation... a new engine should solve all the problems, I think lol.. I relaly need to get into a mechanic course... stupid semester doesnt start till summer.

 

If you have 7000 dollars to spend and you want to go faster eventually .....dont bother fixing this one....... just go buy a crate motor..... or have an engine builder blueprint one for you. 7000 should also be enough to cover you for a motor and a sweet little th-350 or 400 trans with lots of money left over. Which is want youd want with a nice 350 or bigger small block.... or even big block.

 

How are the emission laws where you live in NJ? It's a terrible thought to have just spent all that money on a carb etc. and just replace it all when you put in a new motor. Its sad that most women (and even some dudes) go to have shop work done and practically get robbed in the process. It really does sound like the idle mixture screws need adjusting take it and have a mechanic adjust it using a vacuum guage. As far as your 700 hp engine BEWARE! Not many engines make that kind of hp and if they do it's race gas and N2O. best bet is to leave race engines for the strip and stick with crate motors and such because of their warranty and reliability factor.

 

It could be, but i'm more willing to bet it's an engine problem if you were having a stalling problem when in gear, but idling at 2000, and a computer change fixed that.

 

I am only visiting NJ, I am from NY. As for emissions, I guess you may be right. But I like to race a bit too, rephrase, I love to race. Been to the speedway more times then I've been to see my family lol. Any idea how to make the car faster while not killing my chances to get passed for inspection next year?

 

It was previously idling at 2000, it now idles at or just under 1000 in park, and at or just under 500 in drive while stopped. When I first got the car she ran very strong, so the 2000 rpm idle speed was fine because she ran and sounded fine...

 

do like the guys mentioned earlier and start with the easy (read: free) stuff. there are four wires running to the side of the transmission (can't remember which side though, i dont have an automatic trans). they run to a single plug and are arranged in a square where they plug into the tranny, that controls the solenoid that locks up your torqe converter. pull back the clip on the plug and pull it out of the trans and tie up the connector so it doesn't drag or get caught anywhere. go for a drive. if the torque converter was operating properly you will notice that you now run at a couple hundred more rpm than usual while at light throttle at speeds over 20 or 30. if that's the only difference you notice then that wasn't the problem. now plug the connector back in and adjust your idle speed. adjust it with the engine fully warm so the choke isn't adding extra throttle. ideally you want it at about 800 while in gear and a bit higher in park/neutral. the idle speed adjustment screw is located by the throttle linkage (where the throttle cable attaches on the carb). with no throttle applied, the adjustment screw will be touching the throttle linkage. tightening the screw does the same thing pushing on the gas does, it opens the throttle up, but very very little. good luck.

 

Sure, it'll run strong at 2000 RPM, but you're missing the problem that is revealed at lower RPMs. Your engine is screaming vacuum leak to me... I could be wrong, but such a large difference between park and drive... My car idles at 800-850 and is 600 in drive. Do you have a can of carb cleaner? If so, start the car up, and spray all around the base of the carb, and along the intake where it meets the heads. Also spray the vacuum hoses. If you spray any part of the engine carrying vacuum and the engine surges, that's the source of your vacuum leak.

 

I would need to know gearing of your car,intended use(drag race or weekend cruiser or daily driven) My car runs 11.2@119 it has a cat passes visual but... Anyway it all depends on the state laws and you really need a mechanic,don't just take every Tom,Dick and Harry's advice(did I just type that,lol) check references look over their cars etc. and be very wary if it sounds to good to be true.... This has been a message from the BBB...

 

Hmm... you've given me alot to check lol! I hope I can find all these things. Sorry was gone for a while was working on my litle camaro site!

 

oh and as far as building the car up i'll give this advice: with a 700hp engine you will have to replace EVERYTHING behind it, trans, rear, suspension, roll cage, subframe connectors and maybe even upgrading brakes. oh and deep pockets for gas heh. the rearend alone you'll need is two grand (ford 9") and little things add up SO fast it's mind boggling, ask anyone that's built a car, $10 here, $50 there and before you know it you're up to two or three grand. what i'd do is get something like a ZZ4 crate motor which i think is about 350hp ($3500ish). it sounds like you're more into drag racing than road racing so i'd stick with an auto trans, so you can get your trans rebuilt and beefed up(not sure what this costs but i'd guess $500-800). if you want you can upgrade your rear end to a 9 bolt which is stronger than a 10 bolt, but you may already have a 9 bolt (count the bolts on the differential cover). whichever rear you have, it won't have the best gearing for drag racing so you can get something like 3.73:1 gears put in along with a good posi($200-300?). for about a grand you can get most of your suspension replaced with awesome tubular components from some place like www.spohn.net I haven't included any labor in the prices mentioned, which is always a killer, so hurry up and take some classes so you can do it yourself lol. with luck you'll have money left over for all the tires you'll burn up and maybe some exterior/interior mods

 

I'd say "she" has modded the exterior and interior already from the pics I see!

 

The person I bought the car from was a racer, he has a certified track time of a 1/4 mile at 11.6 @ 120 from the raceway there, and a 0-60 of 4.9, which I have yet to match in the same car! But I've only lost once, and since it was to another Chevy I wasn't too upset. Course now she is barely road worthy much less track worthy.

I have no idea about gears or anything, I am sure if I did I could probably match the previous owners stuff.

As for gas, I only buy Sunoco 94 octane which is anywhere from 1.69-1.89 a gallon so I already spend a pretty penny on gas. Too bad no one here is close enough to show me what I need to know stupid Jersey >_<

 

good advice but i'd use something less messy than carb cleaner, like an UNLIGHTED propane torch. if the following seems really elementary dont take offense, i'm just not sure how much you actually know. when air/fuel gets sucked through your carb/intake it creates a vacuum which is used for various components in the car from power brakes to emissions stuff to cruise control. the vacuum is provided to these things via hoses which can over time break and leak which results in excess air being sucked into the engine through these holes. this is called running lean as opposed to when you have too much gas which is called running rich. the purpose of using the propane/carb cleaner: if you wave around the propane over your vacuum lines and you suddenly hear a change in how your engine is running it means you passed over a hole in a vacuum line where the engine sucked in propane or carb cleaner which are both very flammable and thus you change the air/fuel ratio in the engine which changes how it runs.

 

You would be right.

I replaced the stock radio with an MP3 cd player, and the stock sound system with 4 new speakers (sony). Added undercarriage lights, some dragons/windshield decals.

Still have other mods up my sleeve. =) I love my car, even when she's being a bitch.

 

I know nothing so this is all way over my head but I think I can manage... now why did flyin89 put she in quotes O_o

 

If you've done any of that work yourself, you should be able to handle this stuff.

As for the "she" in quotes... You seem pretty female to me from the above pic.

 

wait a minute, your stock iroc with a carbed 305 ran an 11.6? the guy seriously lied to you there, that car is good for 17s or 16s at best i'd say, or am i misunderstanding? there's a big misconception that using premium gas is good for your car if it doesn't require it. if your engine is stock dont waste your money, run 87 octane and save money because the 94 isn't doing you any good. you should run the lowest octane you can without detonation. what high octane does is give you the ability to run higher cylinder compression. when gases compress they get hot, high octane is easier to compress than lower octane so you get lower temperatures in your cylinders. detonation occurs when cylinder temps get hot enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture before the sparkplug sparks, this is typically catastrophic to an engine, high octane prevents this

 

The motor in there is stock, the motor I am eyeing is not... Sooner or later I'll have the stock engine pulled and replaced with this sweet little 700 hp 350 that I have been drooling at... but for now I'd like to get the car running somewhat reliably, since money buys engines and getting to work makes money.











Stock motors don't run 11's. Anyone can get a timeslip(I've thrown away some low 12 ones away) I see you have a camera take some pics of your motor,carb,headers or manifolds etc the codes in your glovebox (that'll tell us your gears if they are stock) so we can see a little more of this setup and any other pics (just kidding about the house number)lol

 

I don't know maybe he had somethings in the car he removed later, but it was the same vin on the cert. Or maybe it isn't as stock as I think it is, again I know **** about engines other then their point and where certain things are.

The car been on this gas since 1989... i tried once running on mobil gas, at 89 octane i think it was 89 and the car ran like ****, so I went back and she ran better.

What I know about engines is rudimentry at best, I can drive, damn good at it if I do say so myself (and I did =p). The underlights were installed by a local preformance shop, as was the alarm, the radio/speakers were installed by tweeter. I did install the seat cover and steering wheel cover =) As mechanical as that was (lol) it didn't teach me much. I also put on the decals myself.

 

I can get pics tommorrow, seeing as how its dark out and there are crazy all over this area. Hell I got my car parked in plain view so I can watch it out the window with my rifle nearby, because they stole my aunts van last month. I -hate- Jersey.

 

IROCUBABE wrote:
I know nothing so this is all way over my head but I think I can manage... now why did flyin89 put she in quotes O_o


Please don't be offended by that. I'm the cat from Missouri the show me state (lol). Until I see especially on the computer I have doubts. Regardless the advice I give is genuine. BTW way if the pic is you,you are a very pretty young girl! fair nuff?

 

It's just South Jersey... Central Jersey's sweet and North is OK in the suburbs. My best friend used to live down in Cape May Courthouse... She hates it down there. Where in NY do you live normally?

 

Whya man would pose as a girl is behind me but I have more affirming pictures if you need them ;p

 

Penfield, its a place near Rochester NY, but only till June.

 

Oh girl the PM's your gonna get now! :shakes head! grins lol

 

You're a trip either way. If I come help ya, I expect a nice lunch. LOL BTW, you have a private message.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

Seeing how its 4 am I think its time I headed to bed. I'll get pictures of the engine, and try out some of the suggestions tommorrow.

Night all and thanks for all the advice.

 

IrocUbabe - have you ever been to Binghamton, NY? Thats where I'm from. I have family there and in Jersey. My question for you is, if your car is an '87 IROC, what happened to the tuned port fuel injection? Do you know any of the car's history (service records or FI to carb swaps, etc...)?? My dad's uncle owns/operates a real mechanic shop in Jersey, I could see where it's located exactly if you like.

Mike (1bad91Z)

 

1Bad91Z;

Not all IROCS were TPI. I have seen several carbed IROCS and have an uncle that brought one new and specifically ordered it with carb because his 83 T/A had the notably troublesome Crossfire(ceasefire) fuel injection(it stayed in the shop).