:sillylol: haha what a queer, he's probably got either an old mustang with a 289 (or even a straight 6)or a new v6 mustang :sillylol: either way he's probably BSing

 

Yeah, that's what I said when she sent that to me in IM before. My friends Sentra could probably smoke him with all the smoke he's blowing up her backside.

 

i bought my roc last january and ran it all thru sept until it died on the old sticker.

 

ya know what marshall89, i agree! this thread is started to scare me now to, i think irocubabe is sipping on something that we dont know about cuz she sounds little woozy, first shes talking about her camaro, then she talking about mustangs(btw this is thirdgen.org, not mudstang.com!) then shes saying that she has to race her camaro and cant loose even though she told me that her car is dying out and crap like that....hmmm... i can only say one thing, this thread is a bunch of
now if youll excuse me im gonna go and get a drink
oh and would somebody please close this thread, cough vader cough his is getting a ittle off topic

 

Oh look a real nice guy. If text on a screen scares you, perhaps you should go home and let mommy change your diapers. Immaturity runs rampant in your words.

 

Anyone wanna give me a hint on how to get the air filter holder off so I can get a better look at the carburator? I don't want to break anything that will wind up costing me more money to get fixed, so this is why I am asking.

 

 

Take the top off, unhook the PCV breather that comes off of the valve cover, disconnect the vacuum line off of the carb, unhook the snorkel, lift air cleaner off, enjoy.

 

alright cool! thanks ill go and tighten that said screw and see if that was the problem. (If it works then at least I wasn't the only thing with a screw loose )

 

Okay I got the air filter off and can now see the carb perfectly, but I need a bit more information on where this screw I am supposed to be tightening is, if I am standing in dead center front of the car, looking toward the windshield is it right or left front or back? And is it a star screw or a straight?

 

phillips head or flat head

 

There are five pointed star pentagon shaped screws, and at the top of the carb flat straight screws. I dont want to turn the wrong one.

 

Umm... what screw? (Did I miss something?) What exactly IS it that we are trying to adjust?

 

I am attempting to do as suggested in this post

"adjust your idle speed. adjust it with the engine fully warm so the choke isn't adding extra throttle. ideally you want it at about 800 while in gear and a bit higher in park/neutral. the idle speed adjustment screw is located by the throttle linkage (where the throttle cable attaches on the carb). with no throttle applied, the adjustment screw will be touching the throttle linkage. tightening the screw does the same thing pushing on the gas does, it opens the throttle up, but very very little. good luck"

 

I think that's the most replies I have ever seen to a thread on this web page.. Nice camaro by the way..

 

torx screws

 

Curb idle speed is supposed to be set in DRIVE with the park brake set and wheel chocked, engine at full operating temperature. The allowable range for a stock LG4 is 500-550 in DRIVE with the AC off and no accessories on, AC idle solenoid OFF. 800RPM in gear with an auto and stock torque converter is going to cause premature clutch pack wear. 800 RPM in neutral with a manual trans is a little on the high side, and may cause dieseling when the engine is shut off. There is a VECI decal on the underside of your hood with the correct idle speed setting for your engine. It wasn't put there just to cover a hole.

For location of the screw, you might want to print and study this diagram. You're looking for Item #77 :



Once you get it warmed up and idling, you might want a little more detail about the procedure for setting the TPS and mixture control solenoid, just in case your shop "overlooked" the proper adjustment procedure for a replacement carburetor. They didn't get it to idle, so don't be surprised by anything. For instructions, check this file: E4ME.pdf

Incidentally, "E4ME" is the type designation of the Rochester carburetor you have on your engine, thus, all the "E4ME" filenames.

 

Well I found the screw, however according to the little thing on the bottom of the hood it should be idling at 500 (dr), DR I am taking to mean drive, so in drive it does idle at or just below 500, so am I to take it that they way it was set before was incorrect? And seeing that it is idling where it should be according to the little print out there, there is something else wrong? ~_~ I could tighten the screw but I don't want to make it worse.

 

Yes. I think..... But I don't recall everything you stated about the situation..... But if the ilde is within spec ranges in gear but shoots way up out of gear- something else is wrong. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me....... And yes, a vacuum leak could cause it to do the intermittent stalling thing as well.

 

And just for reference, you shouldn't be using the dash-mounted tachometer to check the idle speed. Engine adjustments need to be made with separate (handheld or otherwise) diagnostic instruments. The tach on the dash is about as accurate as an 18" shotgun. The same goes for the rest of the instruments, with the exception of the voltmeter. Somehow, they accidentally got that one fairly close most of the time. The dash gauges are merely an rough approximation of what's really happening.

 

Well whatevers wrong has gotten worse, and unfortunately I think its beyond anything I can fix without the idiots guide to IROC engine repair. I went out and turned her on just about 15 minutes ago and the rpm guage on the dash was up and down up and down never going over 500 (still in park), put her in drive after a few minutes, and she turned off without even moving. Normally the car would got forward a few feet and then shut off now she didn't even move and turned off. Then she was hard as hell to get restarted, normally its easy to get her restarted after she's been on a few minutes, even if she stalls out. Not so this time. Took three cranks to get her back on, and the rpm dash gauge was waving between 1000 and 1500 then about 30 seconds in it dropped a bit, and then a bit more and then just turned off right there in park. Its never turned off in park before without ME turning it off.

 

Yes, it sounds like that carb installation wasn't as smooth as it might have been. If you paid for the work, take it back and have them finish the job (adjustments to mixture screws, MC solenoid, TPS setting, high idle, choke pull-off, AC solenoid, and curb idle adjustments. That's all necessary for a reman carb installation. They DID at least set the float level, didn't they? (The specifications for float level vary with the application.)

As for the "idiot's guide", you're already here. If you have some basic tools, a multimeter, and some time, we can walk you through it. I'd suggest a warm, well lighted place to work, too.

 

it really sounds like a vaccum problem.. look for a vaccum leak.. probably something as simple as a disconnected or cracked vaccum line

 

to irocubabe, how am i even remotely immature, sure it might sound dumb that i say i am scared off this thread but thats because theres people out there like you who are so dumb, and by that i mean you go out and race your car knowing that it is not running right, and then you come running to us asking us for help and advice. well heres a little advice for you seing as how you know nothing about engines(hey you said this not me) either fix your engine first, or get another one b4 you go out racing your car and braging it up, that just gives us other fbody drivers a bad name.
p.s. haha i got the best of you, you will never win

 

Yes I am taking it in tommorrow at 8 am, -insert massive groaning here- I am not too keen on taking it BACK to the idiots the fracked up the job in the first place but I have no other recourse, I don't have a multimeter, where do I buy one and waht does it look like lol.

I have NO idea what they did, if it would help I could get the reciept and check... I fear the car may need to be towed into the shop as I was so unsucessful at getting it to stay on. ~_~

 

I am not the one attempting to create net drama, that would be you. As for what I do with my car, if you don't approve thats your problem. You are neither my parent, my spouse, or anyone whose opinion remotely matters.

You have been added to my ignore list, further post in this thread will just make you look stupider. Thank you and have a nice day.

(Oh and picking on a girl who has admitted knowing nothing about engines makes you a 'real' man. )

 

LOL. Some of you folks kill me! Vader's advice is good and always on target. Good luck with the iroc. What Pepboys did you take it to? I'm local to the area and can lend you some advice if you need it.

 

hahaha apparently someone cant take a joke here, come on now how old are we? try to lighten up a bit and maybe you wont have to get so offensive. i never said i was your mommy or daddy which you still probably live with or your overwieght white trash boyfriend. all i am trying to explain is that in order for you to fix your car problems, your best bet is to not race it, its just that simple. believe ive seen happen sooooo many times. for instance, my friend has a 1990 plymoth laser turbo and he beats the crap out of it, then he ended up burning up one of his pistons and comes crying to me asking me for help.... not dont you see how immature it really is? if not that i guess your the one thats missing out not me, like you said its your car, not mine, my car is near perfect so im not gonna worry about yur hunk of junk
the end

 

hah this is funny, happygilmored just pmd me and called me an idiot, whos the idiot now, dd you not just stoop to new lows?! and he tells me to stay off this thread, um last time i checked vader was the moderator for this board, so you cant keep me off this thread son. and even if vader wants to kick me off, technically i should be the moderator cuz i have been on this sight since 1999.

 

 

Yes, reviewing the repair report might be a good idea. At the least, you'll know what they said they did.

As for a multimeter, if you are planning to at least tinker with the car (or any other) while you own it, it's about as basic a tool as a screwdriver any more. So many critical automotive items are electrical or electronic that having at least a basic meter is necessary for anything more than oil changes. They can be found in a lot of places, for a reasonable cost, and will serve at least the basic functions you'll need to keep your car running right - or check the work of those you are paying to do that.

Actron/SunPro offers some resonable quality testers for the DIY market. While not laboratory quality, they're generally adequate for whatever you might ever need. If you can still find a place that has the CP7676 tester on their display, it has all the basic features and can be purchased for dirt (about $25). This is an obsoleted model, replaced by the CP7680GS ($60). It's still a reasonable price for the features.

If you are thinking of spending any more than that, forget about the SunPro testers and check out the professional line from John Fluke. These are true instruments, with a lifetime warranty, U.S. factory service and calibration, and all the functions you'll ever need short of a graphical display and data logging. The Series 78 Automotive Multimeter is the real deal, but will run you about $280.

 

my blue point meter was only like 300 i think.. works pretty good.. got a damn good deal on it... the only problem i had so far was loaning it to a not so intelligent tech who was kind enough to blow all the fuses for the ohm meter function by checking a circuit with the battery still hooked up... 7 bucks a fuse..

 

SinthetikIroc quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by 89rsIMPRTETR
i have been on this sight since 1999.
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yes you are confused, i understand why, it says i have only been on this website since november of 2002, well i used to go under a different screen name back in 99 all the way up to 2002, then i got off the computer for a couple months and now im back on, so know you understand? i hope you do

 

...And as a general, friendly reminder, it seems that some of the members responding to this thread need to review the Message Board Rules (to which we ALL agreed) and act accordingly. Being forced into "Moderator" duties is never any fun.


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Seven bucks for a pico fuse? OUCH!

 

well lets see vader, first of all im 22 years old not 13 so i pass that rule, secondly i havent posted anything thats obscene, vulgar, sexually-orientated, hateful, threatening, or otherwise violative of any laws, and thirdly how were you forsed to be a moderator, back in 99 i was asked to be a moderator but decided not to because i realized its a lot work, im not taken any credit away from you man you do a good job and i realize its not fun but who ever said it was supposed to be

 

"Forced" is such a harsh term. "Coerced" is more like it. Obviously, you were a lot smarter than I was when asked. Actually, it isn't very difficult, or I wouldn't be able to do it. It only becomes less fun when things get out of hand. And since most people exercise good judgement, that isn't very often considering the number of members here.

Man, I wish I was 22 again, and know what little I do now...

Just keep it clean, and try to avoid being sucked into the fray. We can all read. We can all see for ourselves who is and isn't mature enough to contribute positively. We don't need big red pointers. Besides, it's always MORE fun to get your digs in without people even knowing it. Given enough time and bandwidth, they'll usually dig their own holes to stumble into.

I, too, started under a different username back in '99, and re-registered at the beginning of 2000 to mark the new millenium as a fresh start. I guess I'm stuck with it now. Your old name is probably still active, if you search for it.

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And as for the Actron/SunPro CP7676, I only found one at http://www.tradervar.com for $35. I guess they are getting cleaned out faster than I thought.