Can you get to the o2 sensor from the engine bay?
Well, this photo may not be any clearer, but I'll give it a shot:

You should be able to reach it from the top with a 13/16" or 7/8" box wrench or deep socket. Unplug the connector and slide the wrench over the sensor wire onto the hex. If you have a very deep socket, you can carefully fold the wire and connector into the socket and slide it onto the hex.
When you pick up a new sensor, also get a small container of anti-seize compound. The sensor comes with a little already on its threads, but it is rarely enough. Apply the compound to the OLD sensor, then thread it into the hole by hand, working the compound into the threads of the exhaust tube. Work it back and forth a few times to evenly distribute the compound, then remove the old sensor and install the new one. If there is only a little compound on the new sensor, carefully apply a bit more, avoiding the sensor tip. Connect the electrical connector (you can apply a bit of dielectric silcone grease to the sealing boots if you like) and you're done.
If you have some difficulty in getting the old sensor to break loose, you'll understand the desire for a little extra anti-seize compound (for the next time you change the sensor - about 30,000 miles away).

You should be able to reach it from the top with a 13/16" or 7/8" box wrench or deep socket. Unplug the connector and slide the wrench over the sensor wire onto the hex. If you have a very deep socket, you can carefully fold the wire and connector into the socket and slide it onto the hex.
When you pick up a new sensor, also get a small container of anti-seize compound. The sensor comes with a little already on its threads, but it is rarely enough. Apply the compound to the OLD sensor, then thread it into the hole by hand, working the compound into the threads of the exhaust tube. Work it back and forth a few times to evenly distribute the compound, then remove the old sensor and install the new one. If there is only a little compound on the new sensor, carefully apply a bit more, avoiding the sensor tip. Connect the electrical connector (you can apply a bit of dielectric silcone grease to the sealing boots if you like) and you're done.
If you have some difficulty in getting the old sensor to break loose, you'll understand the desire for a little extra anti-seize compound (for the next time you change the sensor - about 30,000 miles away).
Originally posted by MikeC.86Roc
Oh, they'll have antisieze at any local parts place for the most part. Loctite makes a good product.
Oh, they'll have antisieze at any local parts place for the most part. Loctite makes a good product.
it's much easier to get at from below. no matter what i did to mine it wouldn't come off, so i just had a shop put a torch on it and it came off in a couple minutes. (to get it to the temp they did, i couldn't have really worked under the car very easily)
but it's definitely one of the most under-appreciated parts, both for driveability and emissions. when i did it on the car i had just bought, gas mileage jumped from 12ish to 17ish.
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It's looking like I'm going to need a MotorVac trip anyway, so I might just get them to do it while its up. From my understanding, you need new plugs when you do that, so it'll all be good (I've got new plugs, 3k miles on em...
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From: N. Illinois
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new plugs with motorvac? what's that?
In doing my O2 I just used the O2 socket and 2ft of extensions on my ratchet. Done from the top. Run the engine for a minute and that'll heat it up nicely. No breaker bar needed when I did it.
I put it back on with the extensions and ratchet as well. No problems.
In doing my O2 I just used the O2 socket and 2ft of extensions on my ratchet. Done from the top. Run the engine for a minute and that'll heat it up nicely. No breaker bar needed when I did it.
I put it back on with the extensions and ratchet as well. No problems.
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Originally posted by Vader
If you have a very deep socket, you can carefully fold the wire and connector into the socket and slide it onto the hex.
If you have a very deep socket, you can carefully fold the wire and connector into the socket and slide it onto the hex.
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I just replaced mine with the knock sensor this weekend. it helps if you have small hands but once you wedge in there it doesnt really take a lot of effort to loosen it and it was a little easier getting the new back in (once your hands are already sliced and bleeding you just dont care anymore.) get the o2 socket from auto zone. 15 returnable deposit. took me 5 min to do.
ok stupid question do we 3.1l 's have 1 or 2 sensors????
i'm under the impression that i have one
currently sticking out of the bottom of my headers
the reason i'm asking is i just tried to pick up the bosch #12014 oxy sensor tomp mentioned in a different post to me for around $26
but this cat in auto zone (i just left there not 15min ago)
is trying to sell me two one for in front of the cat and one for behind and both were over 60 bucks
(but then what else is new)
i'm under the impression that i have one
currently sticking out of the bottom of my headers
the reason i'm asking is i just tried to pick up the bosch #12014 oxy sensor tomp mentioned in a different post to me for around $26
but this cat in auto zone (i just left there not 15min ago)
is trying to sell me two one for in front of the cat and one for behind and both were over 60 bucks
(but then what else is new)
Originally posted by Viprklr
new plugs with motorvac? what's that?
In doing my O2 I just used the O2 socket and 2ft of extensions on my ratchet. Done from the top. Run the engine for a minute and that'll heat it up nicely. No breaker bar needed when I did it.
I put it back on with the extensions and ratchet as well. No problems.
new plugs with motorvac? what's that?
In doing my O2 I just used the O2 socket and 2ft of extensions on my ratchet. Done from the top. Run the engine for a minute and that'll heat it up nicely. No breaker bar needed when I did it.
I put it back on with the extensions and ratchet as well. No problems.
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