and?

 

You should see a doctor for that, one is plenty for me.

Where's Vader at, he can never pass up a good freebie!!!

Here, I'll even temp him from his black depths of doom... FREE ANTISEIZE!!!

 

Umm... Huh? What? FREE antiseize?! WHERE?!

Yeah, that must be a real trick. I usually try to get someone else to do that for me. Ever consider joining the circus?

(Sorry, Budget, but I just HAD to. Couldn't pass that one up...)

I think we all know what you meant. Try posting again and we'll offer some real help and suggestions. There are a lot of "home-head" projects done here. We don't always have to pay a professional...

How's that, Red?

 

What the heck.I tried to post this.My internet locked up so I didn't think it did it.

Anyway what I was going to ask.Is do you think it would be possible to redo my vortec heads myself.I want to put screw in studs,And do whatever machining needs to be done.(I forgot exactly what is for I know you can buy the bits to do it with from comp cams)

Also run guide plates and stiffer springs,New valves,seals,etc.

See I dropped out of school.And now I went back.And wont be able to have both jobs.So I am going to be a little strapped for cash for a while.

Any idea's?

 

Glad to hear you went back to school. You made the intelligent choice

You will need to purchase a few tools and get ahold of a drill. But everything you want to do is doable, except if you need valve guides. They will have to be pressed in with a machine. The valve angles and seats will have to be matched at the shop, too.

If the springs and whatnot are too hard to install, a machine shop can do it for not very much. It'll only take them 20 mins., tops.

 

yeah sitting bull.You know before I left I thought it was the worst thing in the world.After I did the whole get up at 5:30 in the morning drive 40 miles to work.Work all day at one place.Drive through rush hour traffic to get home.And most nights go to another job.Driving the 3 minute drive to school and sitting there all day just doesn't seem that bad!


Anyway about the heads.How will I get the pressed in rocker studs out.I was thinking either heat the head or drill them.Retap the hole and put arp studs in.


As for the valves.Do vortec heads take regular small block valves?


I am going to have the machine shop shave the heads and put new valve guides in.


Thanks.

 

Stack some washers around the stud and tighten down on them with a nut. They should pull-out pretty easily.

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the Vortecs use normal valves. The machine shop will get you the right ones, if you ask them. GM carries some with a nice cutback on the lower valve stem and they increase flow, too.

 

WTF? I had a long post in this thread yesterday, and now it's gone? (I had suggested contacting the Bull about porting, as a matter of fact.)

I've also noticed some oddities in the board, like threads with no content, double and triple threads with the same subject line, etc.

Get ready, we may be Goin' Down again. The last time we had this kind of phenomenon was Black Friday, when the server wouldn't take the traffic any more. That was with the old board software, but everything has its limitations...

 

i dont think i could live without a trip to these boards a day vader. dont scare me

 

Yeah, me neither

I'd have to work on my historical exposé if that happened.

 

Vader, you are incorrigible!

As for the Vortec heads, I have not read anything in regard to gains made after touching these heads. Swapping the screw ins for the press in is good, but as far as porting, I have yet to see documented gains (that are worth the trouble).

 

I didn't plan on porting them.Just install screw instuds with comp cams guideplates.Machine them to accept higher lift valve springs,And put some manley race cut valves,New valve seals and all that other stuff.

The only thing I planned to do was gasket match the intake side.And match the intake to.

 

Budget,

That can all be done at home if you want to invest in the tooling. You can purchase guide, stud boss, and spring seat cutters from Crane, Comp, and many tooling suppliers. Make sure you get an 11/32" pilot for the stem and spring seat tools, and a 3/8" pilot for the stud boss cutter. You'll need to use the cutters with pilot arbors to maintain the correct angle. You'll also have to cut very slowly, and check the depth often. Of course, if you're doing this in a mill, the depth control will be a lot better. And in a mill, you'll have to indicate in the head angle carefully.

As long as you are installing new valves, you might want to check the cost difference for having the heads machined for larger valves and bowl porting. The last time I had 2.02/1.60 valves cut in, it was only $65 for labor, and that included a Magnaflux UV dye test.

You might actually get a pretty good price on all the machining if you shop around at different machine shops, and let them know that you aren't in a real hurry. If you can wait until they do another setup for the same work, the cost can be a lot lower. Setup is a big part of the labor cost. The entire job may actually be cheaper than what you would spend on the cutters (about $40 each).

 

Well bad news.I just got back in from the garage.I was removing the studs.By takes a bunch of washers an putting 2 nuts on the stud and using my 1/2 inch air impact to take them out.

Well I got 4 of them out and I was on my 5th.When I broke a chunk out of the head.It is ruined now.I can bet on it.I can take a pic of it.I don't know how to resize pics to put them on here though.

I was thinking about getting some pro topline heads now.I Am going to have to use my tax money to buy them.

Do you still think I can get 400hp out of this motor with the pro-toplines?

 

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/Vi...d=4&courtesy=1

If you copy and paste that it will take you to a pic of it.

Do you guys think it can be fixed or not?

 

It is still useable. The stud boss has to be shortened
anyways for screw in studs and guide plates.
About .400"
About flush with the bolt boss.
Do not use air tools. Get a big johnston bar and take your time pulling the studs.

Leave one stud pressed in until you get the stud boss machining tool. That way you can do one boss and check
the new screw in stud/ guideplate for proper height.
Compare to the old pressed in stud height.

Some people should just stay away from cars......

 

Well I sent a pic of it to one of my freinds that is a welded.And he said it can be tig welded.So I am going to take it to the sheetmetal shop where I used to work.They can fix it up for me.

I think I am going to let the machine shop do the other head!