Ok so I took my car to be dyno'd today and I'm not happy at all with my results. My power curves were pretty good, just all too low......torque peaked at 323.7 at 3400 and horsepower peaked at 254.6 at about 4800.
Here is my setup.....someone please give me some ideas to bring my numbers up to atleast 400 ft/lbs. and 300+ hp.
383 cubic inches
Roughly 10.04:1 Compression
AFR 190 heads (58cc I think...have to double check)
Edelbrock Baseplate
SuperRam Plenum and Runners
58mm Edelbrock Throttle Body
24# SVO injectors
Comp Cam 210/220 .50/.510 114LSA
Ed Wright chip.....had the car on WinALDL and everything looked good with the chip for the most part.
1 5/8 SLP headers
3 in Dynomax cat
Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-Back

I would really like to hear from some SuperRam guys who are making over 300 horsepower. Here is what I'm thinking might help, but I'm not sure......remove intake and heads for porting and polishing, bigger cam (suggestions welcome), and an exhaust cutout before the cat.

Once again I feel that for the money I spent on this engine these numbers SUCK so any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

IMO you have the right parts. And even though that cam seams kind of small for the 383 it should be producing monster torque numbers. I think something is amis. Fuel delivery or something. Do you have a way to check your A/F ratio during the dyno. Are you able to tell if you are heading towards knock and the knock sensor is pulling the timing back?

I'm no injection expert but maybe the guys on the TPI board could help out too.

 

Your only putting out around 300 flywheel horsepower. There is more power with what you have now. Just have to dig for it with tunning. Maybe a mechanical problem, Run the afr and timing up/down till you find your best area under the curve. I would use the LPE 219 roller or the 213 flat tappet cam both will get you well over 300 at the wheels.

Also I would port the Edelbrock base and SuperRam runners. With a stock Edelbrock base, SuperRam, 52mm your only getting around 225 cfm of system flow. You have a 58mm so it may be slightly more, Your heads flow more(260cfm)than that, you want the intake to flow around 15% more than the heads to not be a restriction. Fully ported you should be able to get 275cfm out of it. Alot of people buy the Edelbrock base because its cheaper but is down about 10cfm from the Accel base stock. But ported fully the both flow about the same with the Edelbrock slightly behind.

Look everything over good, My car made only 306rwh and 419rwt at first. I couldnt find anything wrong, But did end up having some major flaws in the setup. First was a blocked exhaust, (melted cats)before tunning it ran really rich. Thats what killed the cats i beleive, I also had drilled the steam holes improperly letting coolant leak into some cylinders causing alot of detonation.

What type of dyno was it? Dynojet..Mustang?

 

Definitely big problems somewhere. A 305 with those same parts would make those numbers. I don't know what's wrong since I only know what parts are there, but there's definitely something amiss(if those numbers are indeed correct).

 

It was a DynoJet dyno. They didn't do wideband readings today because it was a free day for testing. I had my car hooked up to WinALDL about 2 weeks ago and according to a friend my numbers looked pretty much correct. My throttle runs were pretty much close to correct in the A/F dept. according to the BLM's and O2 readings. I was a little rich at closed throttle. I turned my fuel pressure down from about 50 to 46psi now. Also eventhough I wasn't getting any knock he suggested I turn my timing back like 2 degrees so I now have it set at 4 degrees.
My exhaust should be ok....it's all new and the car ran through emissions testing cleaner than the day it was new. I do think it's a little restrictive though....I'm going to probably put a cutout in before the cat when I get my SFC's.

What other tuning things should I be looking at? I have had a vac gauge hooked up to it recently and didn't really see anything suspicious. The only thing I've noticed, which I don't think would be hurting me is that when I set my fuel pressure, as soon as I turn the key to on and the needle shoots up, it bleeds off pretty quickly, but when it's running my pressure it steady.
Should I run a compression test on the engine the next time I'm home??

 

Adavance your timing , 4 degrees seem really low for an engime setup like yours. I went from 254 hp to 273 hp by advancing my timing from 14 to 16 degree at Morgan Motorsports. You should see a decent gain from experimenting with it.

 

I just talked to my friend and he said that we might be able to pick up some substantial horsepower gains if we burn a new chip from scratch so I'm going to hope for the best. He said it looks like I could use a lot of tuning in my spark tables. This is going to happen around the first of March so I'll be waiting eagerly. I'm also going to get an exhaust cutout soon and play around with the LPE 219 cam in DD2000.

If I can get to like 300hp and 380ft/lbs I can live with that for now and then do some porting work later.

 

I like your idea of doing your own chip. I know Ed Wright is good but without having your car there on his dyno he probably can't do as good of a job as you can with the car in your possesion.

There is a thread on this board for a guy from Stillwater, Ok that took his car to Ed Wright's shop here in Tulsa. If I remember right he made several pulls on the dyno and changed the chip quite a few times before having the right one. And it made a huge difference.

 

I'm running a VERY similar setup to yours. Here's what I've got: 383 stroker, 6" rod, 9.9:1 compression ratio, Superram base and upper, vette heads, ported and polished, with 2.00/1.60 valves, and TPIS ZZ9 cam, .514/.560 lift, 212/226 dur, 112 lsa, Edelbrock 1 5/8 shortie headers, single cat 3" exhaust, LT1 24lb injectors, 47psi fuel pressure, stock TB, T56 tranny. I also had Ed Wright tune my PROM.
In fact, I had such a problem with his tuning, that I had to drive the car down to him (from KS, not cali) so that he could fix it. He dyno tuned about 22 hp into it, and my final numbers were 320 rwhp, 417 rwtq. I was a tad disappointed with the HP numbers, especially since HP peaked at 4600, which I dont understand. But I've got 65 hp on you, and nearly 100 ft/lbs of torque!!
My cam is a bit bigger than yours, but your heads are much better than mine. That's the only difference I see, and it shouldnt make nearly that much difference between our two dyno numbers.
So I would say something is wrong with your car. If you're getting a knock or knock retard, generally you can see that on the dyno, you'll see a sudden dip in power, and then it will go back up. Interesting about the fuel pressure dropping. I would look into that if I were you. It's possible that you have a leaking injector, and your O2 sensor might not pick that up if it's on the right bank. Check the fuel pressure with the car off. When it starts to drop, pinch off the fuel return line with a set of vice grips or channel locks. If the pressure continues to drop then you have a leaking injector. That's the first place I'd look if I were you, since you know you have some sort of problem there.

 

ViciousZ I could live with numbers like yours, although I'd still like to see the hp number a little higher. I'll have to check out the fuel leakdown problem when I'm home from school again.

 

One thing to add to ViscousZ's method for finding the leak down problem.. Pinching the return will eliminate the pressure regulator as the cuase. But you still need to determine if its the injectors or the fuel pump check valve that's leaking. So if it still leaks down after pinching the return, take the fuel supply line loose and dead head it to your fuel pressure gauge. Quickly cycle the key to get some fuel pressure and watch if it still drops. If it holds you have an injector problem. If it still drops either the fuel pump check valve is bad or theres a leak in the supply line inside the tank.(assuming theres no fuel pouring on the ground! )

 

I'm assuming you've got the stock (narrowband) O2 sensor?

It won't be good enough for tuning. Get it on the wdeband and I think you will be surprised.

 

Ok so I talked to the guys are CarTek today and this is what one of them suggested:
More chip tuning
Different cam....224/230 .502/.510 (higher with 1.6's) 110 LSA
Port and then Extrude Hone Runners and Baseplate
Port and maybe Mill Cylinder Heads

What do you guys think of that cam for this setup? Other than that everything else makes sense to me.

 

definatly go with that bigger cam.... i dont think you should need to touch the heads.... but the cam ... most certainly.... and if u really get tired of tuning and all that crap.... dump the FI setup for a carb and sweet intake....you might REALLY be surprised by all that breathing it does. cuz with what you got on the motor and with the new cam you want.... i think with a nice 750 dp or 800 cfm carb (holley of course).... you should be above 400 hp easily.