I just installed Winaldl and took some basic information. I really don't know a whole lot about what I am looking at, but it seems to me like these MAP readings should vary more. Could somebody with some experience tell me a little about what they mean?

 

91,

After examining some of the table I created from your results, it appears that the WinALDL software is calibrated in real-world units for some parameters and percentages for others. It seems that TPS and MAP are percentages of maximum scale, while CTS, VSS, O², and other inputs are in real units.

Presuming that, it seems that the MAP is following the TPS and RPM fairly correctly. At one point in the run, you went WOT (about 155 seconds) and the MAP responded by going to near 100% (atmospheric pressure). The Integrator and Block Learn also went to flat 128s as they should, O² went rich, and the VSS climbed fairly sharply. As soon as the throttle was closed, the MAP went to 34%, or about 25" Hg.

Why do you think the MAP numbers are off?

 

BTW - If you're running a stock EPROM, your thermostat is too cold. You barely reached 170° after ten minutes and a few WOT runs. The stock EPROM needs to see at least 176°F to achieve full closed-loop operation and enable all ECM functions.

 

I thought they might be off since they stayed between 13.7-14.1 during the whole run. I think I just did not know how to read them.

I noticed that the temperature stayed pretty low. I have a 160 thermostat - I think - and a 180 hypertech fan switch. Do you think installing a 180 thermostat might help me out? It's running very rich right now. I had to advance the timing 10 degrees to get it to run ok. It idles great and even does ok above 3000 rpm, but off idle it is a total dog. It was running a little rich before I installed rebuilt heads, headers, Catco cat and Dynomax exhaust - which I did because I had failed emissions. After doing all of that it started running very rich and ran like crap until I advanced the timing. Before the work it had a stock fan switch and would frequently see 220 degrees in traffic. Now it never gets over about 160.

One other Winaldl thing, when I was running with the computer hooked up I had the "dash" display up. The rpm were dead on, but the speedometer would have me going 30mph more than I actually was. I don't know if that matters, but I thought it was interesting.

I desperately need to get this car through emissions. I have not been able to register it and I'm driving on an expired tag.

 

91,

I may be incorrect, but from what I can see of the MAP readings, they are varying all over the place, from 22.5 to 97.4. I interpreted the MAP to be the sixth column of data, according to the colummn headers.

What I see remaining relatively stable between 12.8 and 14.3 is the battery, or system voltage, in the eleventh columnn of data. That seems fairly normal as well.

Here's a sample of how it formatted for me:

 

Hahaha, i'd say it's pretty obvious here that the problem is he is trying to view the data as text, rather than importing it into a spreadsheet program.

 

Hahaha, as in "Elementary my dear Watson!"?
or
Hahaha, as in "Hey, idiot!"?

Yes, I was viewing the information as text. I don't know anything about the displays, and I appreciate the hell out of Vader for taking the time to help me. What I need to know now is whether any of these readings look off and point to a repair that I can make? If not, then I am going to have to start looking at things like fuel pressure or a thermostat - I guess - or take it somewhere because I am tired of messing with it (you don't want to know how much time away from the wife and kids I have spent between the engine tear down, trying to run down this problem and building that &$%@ Winaldl cable).

 

Your BLMs are low across the board, even bottoming out at 108 in a lot of places. That means you are running rich, or your computer thinks you are running rich. Since you know you fail emmisions, i'd reckon you might really be rich though...

Recommended repair: Figure out why / if you are running rich and correct the situation. Could be as simple as a relocated MAT / and or bumped up fuel pressure. Or could be a leaky injector. Or it could be misfiring. Could even be a flaky O2 sensor, although i'd doubt that. Other than that, everything seems pretty normal.

 

I noticed when I got the car back together that the injectors sounded like they were cycling loudly and I could see lots of fuel on the throttle plates. Is there something that might cause the injectors to cycle too rapidly or dump in more fuel than they are supposed to? Fuel pressure regulator?

I guess I will check the fuel pressure on the inlet side and, if that's normal, look into an AFPR or new injectors?

 

Ok, I graphed my MAP, TPS and BLM on a single scale. The only correlation I could see was that the BLM was lower when the TPS and MAP were low, which is to say that the car was running rich when the throttle was closed/closing.

I was thinking that the car should run richer closer to WOT if there's a leak since the injector might leak harder when more fuel is being demanded. But, that would not be true if the pressure at the injector is the same no matter what the throttle position. If that's the case then I would expect what the graph showed, which is that the BLM is lower when the throttle is closing. If the pressure increases at the injector when the throttle is more open, then I would expect a leaking injector to dump more fuel in at that time and cause the BLM to drop as the MAP and TPS go up.

Know what I'm sayin'?

 

Anybody have any thoughts on that?