there is no right or wrong answer. in the real world there are too many variables. i raced a 350 iroc at norwalk with my 86 iroc. he had tranny mods, large tube runners and base, and i think a cat back. i had a fresh rebuilt 305 with ported intake, headers and exhaust, and a cam. we bot ran identical times and i had 1mph on him at the end. there is no set in stone engine combo that will beat another. any engine shoudl be built to suit the wants, needs, and abilities of the owner. look at all the guys that build slant 6s, i know alot of guys that have built some ***** out fast muscle cars but want to retain stock appearance. of corse they could go faster with headers and slicks, but they like to run skinny redline tires and stock manifolds because of the stock look and challenge of getting it to hook up. many people like to be unique, many people like the challenge of building somethin different, just talk to a pontiac, olds, buick, or cadillac guy. would it be easier to just build a chevy motor? yes but they like to be different. hotrodding is supposed to be an enjoyable past time that requires creativity, time, patience and as little or as much money as you want to spend. be creative, do what you want, build what you wanna build and dont let anyone tell you your ideas arent worth it. we all know that some motors make more power than others, we all also know that some motors have limitations. i think it is cool that there are a few guys out there tryin new stuff. look at madmax, the first guy to siamese an intake base. he was just being creative and trying somethin new. that is what the hobby is all about. if we all ran the same motor and did teh same stuff life would be boring. i think it is cool to have guys out there doing stuff differently to spice the hobby up a bit. look at the guy that was runnin 9s on a supercharged 305. could he have went faster witha 350 or larger, but he wanted to run a 305 so that is what he did. that is the stuff i am talkin about.

 

Not at all just that you don't have tp have a 350 to be fast. Do you all realize that a modern roller 305 puts out more power than nost of the muscle cars of the 70s?

I mean I know a 350 makes more power but why get a 350 when a 400 makes more power. Why bother with small blocks? a 396 will make more power than a 400....

See it is stupid to play that game. Just build what ya got and have fun with it.

 

Parts avialability and cost. The 350 is about the most widely supported engine in the aftermarket with all sorts of parts from a slew of mfg's, with the other engines (olds, poncho, buick) the parts are more expensive due to less of a demand for them.
400? Unreliable engine for street use IMHO. 396? Bigger can-o-worms there, all the extra pains of putting a bigblock in a third gen=more money in the long run.
Of course, if you just have money to throw around...throw it my way.

 

Spend the least to get the most. That's the name of the game for most of us: doesn't matter whether it's housing, food, speed, or whatever...

The highest HP/$ ratio short block is a 350. Having the most power isn't the issue at hand with the 335/350 comparison; it's HP/$$$. By that measure, the 335 is a failure. You'll get more power for less money out of a 350, period. There is no possibility for an argument.

When I want power I don't fool around with little motors like a 350, either. I start at 400. But that's not a question of HP/$; the 335 debate is. It's all these people trying to tell us that a 335 is cheaper to build than an equivalent powered 350. It's not. None of them has managed to demonstrate a single case, even when they were getting parts for free, that their 335 was cheaper than going to the junkyard and buying a 350 core and rebuilding it; and not one of them — not one — has even begun to come close to being able to prove that their 335 has more power than an equivalent 350 (same heads, same cam, same induction, asme exhaust, etc.) Because they can't, and they know it as well as I do.

Looks to me like a 335 is still a bad idea when measured by the HP/$$$$ yardstick, even when the 305 block is free. All the monkey-spank to the contrary hasn't managed to alter the basic facts. And my advice, as well as that of the rest of the people around here that have been around the block more than once doing this, is and will continue to remain, don't do a 335. It's a stupid waste of money that puts you behind in the race.

 

I think most people are just trying to pass on some words of wisdom here. Bottom line,, unless you already have a 400 crank and rods laying around and a own a machine shop,, or have a buddy that does, why would you want to pay $150 to turn a 400 crank, or $180 for a new "stroker" crank for the 305,, when you can get a rebuildable 350 short block for the same money or less? Then you have to clearance the 305 block for the 3.75" stroke. And there could be piston skirt interference running a "305" piston with a 3.75" stroke and 5.565 rods that you would have to watch for since different pistons have different skirt lengths. Just a major pain in the buttock,, especially when a 350 can be built so much easier and cheaper and produce more power. OK,,, I could see doing a 335 for a numbers matching car that you wanted a little extra grunt out of it,,, but that's about it.

Mean,,, I don't disagree with what you're trying to say,, but do you know for sure that 9 second 305 used a production based 305? Seems like I remember he was running a bow-tie block,,, long rod, 4.020 bore, and 3" stroke - If this is so,,,, it's hardly an example of a "production based" 305's potential.

 

Has anyone here ever dynoed a 335 other than "BGNCHRS"

 

I already stated in one of my earlier posts that it was cheaper (yes cheaper) for me to build a 335 than a 350. I built this car on a tight budget, so I had priced out every combination long before I ever bought anything.

If it was cheaper for me to build a 350, well then I'd have a 355 or a 383 right now. I know a 350 has alot more potential, but I wanna see what I get out of this combo first.

Keep in mind this car was built to be a daily driver, not a race car.

This may not be the case for everyone here , but in my personal situation... it was actually cheaper.

 

Please post the numbers then. I don't see how you could possibly pay to have the block clearanced and machined for the stroker assembly for cheaper than paying $150 for a rebuildable 350 and then having it rebuilt. Either you have a hookup with the guy at the machine shop, or someone was trying to overcharge you for 350 parts.

 

the original poster hasn't even replied to any of this, so I don't know how anyone can speak for him, unless they know him.. how does anyone know if he wants more power? or hp/$? or if he just wants to spend a lot of money? I'm pretty sure anyone with an ounce of common sense would know a 350 would be stronger than a 305.. which is why I kinda assumed he's looking to just build up the 305 and have some fun with it.. I saw nothing in his post about getting the most for his money.. he just said that he could build that for $1200, which sounds like a better price than any other price for 350 stuff that everyone else has posted.. not sure if he could do a 350 for that cheap too... why don't we wait and see?

 

Brad - I did all the block clearancing myself with a dremel tool.

I'm not going to post any prices, because in the long run you guys won't believe me anyways.

 

CarCraft did. Years ago they did a 334 stroker build up, the TPI engine with twisted wedge heads made the most HP, coming in at 329 at the flywheel. This was on a a dyno, not in the car. They used dyno headers, which are better than street headers and don't have a full exhaust hooked up.

 

Thanks Morley.

I know Super Chevy put one in their Silver Streak Camaro, but I don't have that issue. And I can't find much info online

 

the main reason i would want to build a 335 is just to have a good street motor with decent power that sounded good. keep in mind i am SMARTER thats right smarter than most people my age because if you give a 16 year old a car with a 450 horse engine what is gonna happen? ull find them wrapped around a tree somewhere is what will happen. im just looking for about 300 horse. this isnt for an all out drag car. then after i drive this engine around for a year or two then i might build something bigger. ive already got a 305 block(not a roller block) and the heads that were on it. i will do the machining to get everything to fit. i am going to port and polish the heads i already have also.then i was thinking about getting a used tpi setup off ebay or out of a boneyard. or maybe go carb. put a decent sized cam in it and be happy with what it is. I DONT NEED THE FASTEST CAR IN THE WORLD TO BE HAPPY i just want something thats not slow and sounds good. i appreciate all the replys. plus it will be alot easier to talk my mom into letting me put a 305 in my car than a 350 anyway.

kolby

 

And the main reason not to go 350. Just don't take her for a ride with a 300 hp engine in the car either, 300 hp, 450 hp...its all subjective to mothers.

 

i have a a 5.0 stock bore, crank, heads and cam and im pretty sure i can take a 4.6L gt

 

id say a 13.952 @ 97.08 is pretty respectable out of what i have, seein my friend with a 5.0 mustang gt with a lot more mods then me did a slow et at that the same 60 foot i puled.

and if u wanna talk about cheapness, then why spend **** loads of money on catalog junk when all u need to do is fix GMs mistakes first?

 

Cheap mods?

Mods:

vehicle weight with driver 3350 with a 1/4 tank of fuel

hollowed cat
emissions delete
A/C delete
throttle body coolant bypass
cut the bottoms off the air box
manifold air temperature sensor relocated to the air box cover
160 stat, manual control dual fans
dynomax super turbo exhaust
dynomax headers
headman Y pipe 2.25 to 2.50
ported plenum
ac delco plugs
centerforce dual friction clutch
energy suspension torque arm bushing
energy suspension tranny mount

 

Which tires and axle ratio was that 13.95 on? Very impressive without a cam or head porting.

 

He was running 205 series tires and a 3.08 10 bolt.

 

205 75 15 goodyear invicta GS's and 3.08 ten bolt

 

Hay there SLP good to see ya ............ maybe this year I can top ya .......Y a man I know your car is the shiznat ....... Proveing it WOOOOHOOOOOO

 

ill let u lnow how any other mods i do work out for it, that why i can pass em on to u. right now im workin ona 3.45 9 bolt rear for it, just got one a 3.27 9 bolt with PBR calipers, fond some 3.45 gears gonna do it up. have a lot of suspension work to do this winter thats for sure.