OK....

1. If the car is sitting at idle too long...the temp starts to climb to the sky. After letting it run for awhile I noticed the fans werent' coming on.

I reprogrammed the ECS with the ARAP bin and did no other programming.

Am I correct to assume that it is probably the fan switch on the passenger side of the block?

2. After the car sits and starts to heat up the alternator gauge shows the alternator is charging at 8 volts. The alternator seems to shut on and off again quit abit. Seems fine when I get on the freeway and cool the car down.

3. Oil squirts out of the dipstick tube when I stomp on the accelerator. Embarassing as h*ll when the car starts smoking after I stop.

I had a melling high volume oil pump during my engine rebuild and run synthetic oil.

Should I run a standard oil pump and get a moroso 6 qt pan with baffles or something.



Any solutions to these problems would be greatly appreciated.

Marty

 

You don't need and shouldm't use a HV pump but thats not your problem. Low voltage may cause the fan relay to not function properly.

 

The ECS controls the main fan and the aux. fan is controlled by the fan switch. If you reprogrammed to turn the fan on at a lower temp then the fan is probably bad. Run a test on it. The aux.fan doesn't come on till 230ish is it is a stock fan switch.

I would get the alternator tested, most places check it for free. I assume you don't have underdrive pulleys on it.

What does your oil pressure run? I don't think its the oil pump giving your problems. Mine runs 50-60 with a standard pump, had the machine shop machine to close tolerances. Also ran a high volume pump at 80-90 in another motor without any problems. I think your crankcase pressure is from another source

 

oil pressure is at 60lb...sometimes drops to 30 when really hot.

What other causes could there be for the crankcase pressure?

As far as the fans. Is there a way I could test the fan?

 

Do you have a crank case ventilation system? If you ground the wire going to the fan switch, the fans should turn on. They should also turn on with the air conditioning. Have you checked at the battery and alternator with the car running to see if the guage is reading correctly? Checking the alternator is a good idea.

 

Oil pressure has nothing to do with crankcase pressure. Put that out of your mind.

Crankcase pressure = blowby. Pure and simple. If you have a correctly installed and operating PCV system (I assume you do.... both the vacuum that extracts the vapors, and the clean air to replace what's sucked out, right?) then the only possible explanation for your problem is combustion pressure leaking into the crankcase.

Check for a stopped up cat; leaky intake gasket at the center, where the exhaust crossover passages are; cracked castings, either intake or heads; bad head gaskets; really, really bad valve guides; wasted rings; or pistons with holes in them.

 

Complete rebuild last summer...about 1500 miles ago.

Cat is new.

Heads are new.

New rings / pistons.

I don't see any exhaust indicators that the head gaskets are bad.

What other indication would I get that the intake gaskets are bad?

The intake manifold is an accel base for the superram setup. I'm assuming the gasket is not a special one?!?

I do not really want to remove the superram to physically inspect the gasket....for some strange reason...

 

Are you running stock valve covers?

 

They are tall aluminum ones from summit!

 

Do they have the vent and pcv valve openings?

 

each valve cover has one opening. The passenger side is plumbed to the throttle body and the drivers side dives under the plenum...looks to be hooked up to the intake manifold.

 

The only thing left that i know of is whatRB83L69 said.

 

Thanks for the help....I'll take a closer look at the pcv system.