Tune up Help?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
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From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Tune up Help?
i am doing a tune up on my car, did the distributor cap, rotor and such, movin on to the spark plugs and plug wires...what is the best way to go about this? is it easier to get to if i jack the car up or put it on ramps? any good procedures would be greatly appriated, for it is my first tune up on any car lmao (wrong choice for a first to be on a camaro eh? lol)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
and also...i've been finding it hard to use jack stands on my z-28...are you able to use jack stands on them, and if so, where is a good spot for them to be placed
Kaas,
I get all the plugs on my T.A. from the top. (It helps to be 6'4" and have arms like an orangutan.) Instead of just changing the wires, you can clean the ends and meter them for continuity. Expect about 1,500-2,500 ohms per foot of wire.
If/when you need to set the car on stands, you can usually use either of these points with good success:

As always, after the jack is lowered and BEFORE getting under the vehicle, make sure the stands are placed securely. Bump or jostle the car to make sure it doesn't move. I like to give it a couple of good hip checks to make sure the stands are secure. Try not to bend any body metal when doing this.
Another thing to remember is that stands should be placed only on concrete or a load-distributing pad over asphalt or unpaved surfaces. I'm sure you stands came with safety instructions.
I get all the plugs on my T.A. from the top. (It helps to be 6'4" and have arms like an orangutan.) Instead of just changing the wires, you can clean the ends and meter them for continuity. Expect about 1,500-2,500 ohms per foot of wire.
If/when you need to set the car on stands, you can usually use either of these points with good success:

As always, after the jack is lowered and BEFORE getting under the vehicle, make sure the stands are placed securely. Bump or jostle the car to make sure it doesn't move. I like to give it a couple of good hip checks to make sure the stands are secure. Try not to bend any body metal when doing this.
Another thing to remember is that stands should be placed only on concrete or a load-distributing pad over asphalt or unpaved surfaces. I'm sure you stands came with safety instructions.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
lol..well, i am quite smaller than that...and i found the spaces got really really small from the top..so i will try it from the bottom today if i can
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, VA
Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
hmm....ok, i tried to get to the plugs while the car was jacked....no gettin to them under there as well =/ what all do you have to remove when doing a spark plug change?
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 1
From: Western PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Originally posted by Kaas
what all do you have to remove when doing a spark plug change?
what all do you have to remove when doing a spark plug change?
). It took them nearly three hours to do on my Camaro. I spoke with the mechanic later on and he said that he'd never replace spark plugs on a third-generation car as long as he lived because it was such a pain. Not trying to scare you, but that's my experience.Just thinking aloud, whenever I removed my A/C and the heater box it opened up a lot of room on the passenger side. I can get to the plugs much easier. Removing A/C for just this job is overkill, but it's a thought nonetheless. What kind of tools are you using to get to the plugs? Sometimes, you can reach things by using a combination of universal joints, extensions, and/or shorty wrenches.
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Kaas,
If you notice the hex (flats) on the ratchet end of the spark plug socket you are using, it is there to allow the use of a wrench in tight spaces. I've found it very helpful on the #6 and #8 plugs. For easiest access, a 3" and 6" extension are useful in different places. A flexible-head ratchet is also helpful on some of the plugs.
Change the ones that are easy to get at first. That should give you a little motivation to tackle teh slightly more difficult ones. In reality, there are only about three that are a little challenging.
If you notice the hex (flats) on the ratchet end of the spark plug socket you are using, it is there to allow the use of a wrench in tight spaces. I've found it very helpful on the #6 and #8 plugs. For easiest access, a 3" and 6" extension are useful in different places. A flexible-head ratchet is also helpful on some of the plugs.
Change the ones that are easy to get at first. That should give you a little motivation to tackle teh slightly more difficult ones. In reality, there are only about three that are a little challenging.










