I got some Dynomax headers, their cheap I know but anything's better than stock L03 manifolds.

Anyway, I want to get rid of all the AIR stuff in my car, without removing the pump (for now). Can I just sever the hose coming off the AIR pump and revove all the rest of the junk from the car? I want to clean out the engine bay of all the AIR stuff to try and make it an easier header install.

The AIR pump is the pump below the AC compressor, right? I just wanted to be 100% sure about that.

 

 

Dynomax headers come with a check valve already installed on the end of the AIR tube manifold, but don't rely on just that. A simple 5/8" coolant nipple hose plug held in place by a hose clamp (on the end of the check valve nipple) will make sure it's sealed up correctly. The plug looks like a big 5/8" vacuum cap and can be purchased form jsut about anywhere that has a good selection of those "Help!" bubble pack products.

Did this on several 3rd gens with Dynomax headers. They are a lot better than stock manifolds.

 

I am a little confused. I'm assuming your headers do NOT have AIR provisions. If not, do what I did, lose some weight and ditch EVERYTHING. On my 5.0 TBI Camaro there is basically 2tubes/hoses to worry about.
The 1st: A hose runs accross the back of the engine accross the firewall connecting both AIR injection ports on the headers. Ditch it.
The 2nd: A hose runs from the AIR pump to a check valve that is on the passenger's side of the rear engine compartment. The check valve is connected (welded) to tubing that carries air down to the hot cat. converter thereby mixing with the exhaust, creating less HO emmisions and ultimately leading to fewer baby seal deaths. Also ditch these items. You will need a hacksaw or a cut off tool to cut the tubing running down to the cat.
That's about it. There's also some extra shorter crap near the air pump which, at least on my car is right under the A/C

Hope this helps.
Good luck man!

 

Mdricken: Thats what I plan on doing... Thanks.

 

I just started removing the AIR stuff from my car.
I noticed that the air pump blows cold/cool air so for the time being Im personaly gona leave it on. I know it cant hurt performance any leaving it there, and at higher RPM's it actually blows quite a bit of air up near the air cleaner. I wonder just how much it could help?

 

The drag it makes on the engine would be more than anything gained from what it shoots in the general aea of the air cleaner. Just keep everything simple and ditch it all.

 

hey....dosnt cutting the air hose to the cat create an exhaust leak?

if so, how'd you fix that?

 

Quote:

hey....dosnt cutting the air hose to the cat create an exhaust leak?

Well in my case I sawed out the cat and replaced it with a strait pipe using a reducer, and a few clamps. But I suppose if you don't want to do this you could just clamp off or bend shut the AIR tube running down to the cat.

I recommed the former though - a strait pipe. It's only like $10 and you never face the problem again of the cat clogging up or whatever it does when it finally goes bad.

 

I finally got all the tubing for the air stuff off today. with the exception of the tube that runs down to the cat I dont have a cat, the previous owner already removed it so that tube being there realy isnt a big deal other than being an eye sore, but I realy would like it gone. any of you all know what the best way to get it off is? it seems to be mounted to the back of the engine some how and I can figure out how to get it off

O'yea if anyone else runs into the tube bolts that go into the exhaust manafold being stuck and use WD-40 to loosen them, be sure to back away from the engine when you get the job done and start it. that stuff burning off there smells like crap and will choke the sh*t out of ya

 

There's just one bolt on the back of the head holding it on. Check to see (or feel) if there are any ground wires attached to this bolt and if so be sure to hook them back up somewhere. It's probably a 9/16" bolt, and it's not easy to get to.