Kat

iTrader: (4)

Yep last week after I changed the spark plugs my car started to idle rough. Yes the gap was set .35 on all the plugs and I know the wires arent crossed =) THe funny thing is that my car sounds like that it has a nice size cam it now =)

Heres my guess what might of happened.
1. One of the spark plugs when I was putting them in, the gap probably got smaller from trying to find the hole fer the plug.

2. One of the wires got screwed up like main wire got broken inside the insulation.

Ok thats what I thought at first but when I pull of the #7 cylender wire (last on one the passenger side) the idle smooths out..

Also when the car warms up the idle seems to smooth out just a little bit.

Ok that leads me to thinking that

1. Same things as above but the heat makes whatever expand enough that the cylender will fire

2. I am leaking coolant from the maifold gasket

3, or I am leaking coolant from the head gasket.

What ya guys think??

Kat

R Defever

It could be coolant leaking into the cylinder like you suggested, but i've had problems in the past with misfires. Does it smooth out above 2000 rpms or so? It sounds like you may just have a bad plug. This happend to me the other day. The plug looked fine from the outside, but wasn't firing right.

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85 Z28 (Soon to be GMPP 350 HO)
Headman Hedders and matching y-pipe, Edelbrock Performer, Ram Air, Accell cap and rotor, Accell Supercoil, 160 stat, highflow Catco converter, absolutely no other smog equipment, B&M shift kit, Rapidfires, numerous carb mods, and flex-a-light fan.

"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance."-Ben Franklin

crazeinc

You might have switched a pair of wires on the distributor causing it to smooth out when you removed one of the wires....

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-'82 Z28 (Pro Street conversion in progress)
-'96 Grand Am (daily driver)

AIM me at: Unitedhope
ICQ me at: 77979548

Vader

Kat,

Things to check:

* Plug gaps. You might have closed one trying to "find the hole";

* Contamination. Feeling around for the plug hole may have coated the tip with grease, dirt, etc;

* Cracked plug insulators from handling damage or overtorquing the plugs. This can be difficult to find unless you can pinpoint the "dead" cylinder;

* Damaged and/or grounded plug wires and boots. You might want to check wire continuity and resistance while you're there;

* Firing order. Since the #5 and #7 cylinders are physically adjacent, the wires are easy to cross. Since they are adjacent in the firing order as well, you might actually get one to fire at the right time depending on your base timing and distributor installation. (Don't feel bad - I've been "careful" and have done it more than once. It's amazing how well it can run that way.)

Later,
Vader

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"Some Body...Someone"

Kat

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys =)

I will check all of that stuff out when I get under the car today. =)

Yes I will post the results when I get done =)

Kat

Kat

iTrader: (4)

Well guys heres was the problem

1. one of the spark plugs gap was like ummm maybe .001 away from the electrode =)

2. One of the wires, the insulation was cracked =)

So their ya go =)

Thanks again guys I really apericate all the help

Kat

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90 RS TBI 305 A4
My so called mods
one offically slow car
The **** poor member of the Infamous North East Crew