A/C Warm/Cold
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Sarge,
Chances are, your charge has slipped.
You could retrofit R=134A, but you'll probably be disappointed with the results unless you make a lot of modifications, like larger coils, a different orifice tube, and don't mind the lack of cooling at low RPMs.
You might be better off with R-414 or some other type of drop-in replacement for R-12. R-12 move more heat energy than R-134A, plain and simple. R-414B move more heat than eother one, and will really wake up your AC sysytem.
Of course, you need to make sure the AC system is not short-cycling because of a high pressire issue, like a plugged condenser, debris over the front of the condenser, or between it and the radiator, or debris that is sucked into the evaporator coil. I'm not sure about your area, but around here, leaves, grass clippings, dust, insects, and weed seeds can clog up an evaporator in only a few years.
A quick pressure test of the system should identify your problem(s). I'm guessing that you might know someone who has a gauge manifold.
Chances are, your charge has slipped.
You could retrofit R=134A, but you'll probably be disappointed with the results unless you make a lot of modifications, like larger coils, a different orifice tube, and don't mind the lack of cooling at low RPMs.
You might be better off with R-414 or some other type of drop-in replacement for R-12. R-12 move more heat energy than R-134A, plain and simple. R-414B move more heat than eother one, and will really wake up your AC sysytem.
Of course, you need to make sure the AC system is not short-cycling because of a high pressire issue, like a plugged condenser, debris over the front of the condenser, or between it and the radiator, or debris that is sucked into the evaporator coil. I'm not sure about your area, but around here, leaves, grass clippings, dust, insects, and weed seeds can clog up an evaporator in only a few years.
A quick pressure test of the system should identify your problem(s). I'm guessing that you might know someone who has a gauge manifold.
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Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 436
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From: Beaufort, SC
I haven't heard of R-414. Do you have to be certified to purchace it like you do for R-12? If not, do you need to purge the R-12 first? I'll get with the auto hobby shop on base to see if they have the gear to test the system.
As far as the evaporator goes, I wouldn't be surprised if it's clogged. How do you get the cover off to clean it out? I haven't been able to find a good way just yet.
As far as the evaporator goes, I wouldn't be surprised if it's clogged. How do you get the cover off to clean it out? I haven't been able to find a good way just yet.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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Sarge,
R-414B is a CFC replacement that can be charged RIGHT OVER the existing R-12 charge. It's compatible and miscible with R-12 and all of its oils, so there's no need to purge and evacuate unless the system has completely dumped of is contaminated from a compressor failure. R-414B requires certification to purchase it, but I wouldn't be surprised if a place that had a manifold and lots of refrigeration equipment already had some R-414B on hand in 25# cylinders (like my garage).
As for cleaning the evaporator, I don't know of a good method - it's an all-day sucker, for sure. If it's clogged, it'll be one of the better days you'll spend under your hood.
R-414B is a CFC replacement that can be charged RIGHT OVER the existing R-12 charge. It's compatible and miscible with R-12 and all of its oils, so there's no need to purge and evacuate unless the system has completely dumped of is contaminated from a compressor failure. R-414B requires certification to purchase it, but I wouldn't be surprised if a place that had a manifold and lots of refrigeration equipment already had some R-414B on hand in 25# cylinders (like my garage).
As for cleaning the evaporator, I don't know of a good method - it's an all-day sucker, for sure. If it's clogged, it'll be one of the better days you'll spend under your hood.
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