A/C fan fusable link?
A/C fan fusable link?
Ok, so I tracked down why my A/C fan wasn't blowing on high. Like someone suggested to me sometime back, there's a red wire coming from a relay off the blower moter. My chiltons manual calls it a fusable link. It was in reality a melted blob of plastic with a blade type connection in the middle of it. So busted apart the plastic. Hooked the two wires together the way they looked like they went together, and bam, it works. My question is, How do I make the fusable link fused? Should I just get an in-line type fuse? If so what amps or voltage or what do I need?
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'86 WS6 Trans Am
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'86 WS6 Trans Am
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
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Transmission: 4L60
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A fusible link is a piece of wire made of a material designed to burn at a specific temperature. This makes it act like a very high amperage fuse.
Most parts stores carry replacement fusible links, just ask them to look up the one you need. Failing that, you can always find out the part-number from a dealer.
Most parts stores carry replacement fusible links, just ask them to look up the one you need. Failing that, you can always find out the part-number from a dealer.
Arawn,
Apeiron is correct.
If you can't find (or don't want) a relpacement fusible link, you can repair the fusible link by putting a fuse in its place (as you suggested). In-line ATC (that's the automotive blade type fuse) fuse holders are available at automotive parts stors (Pep Boys, etc.). Be sure you get one with 12AWG wire, NOT the smaller 16AWG wire. You'll want to put a 15 (blue) or 20 (yellow) fuse in it. The smaller fuse holder will not be able to handle the higher current, the 12 AWG wire will. Make sure the fuse holder comes with a cover to seal the fuse from the weather.
If you put a 15 ampere fuse in, and it blows, replace it with a 20 ampere fuse. Not sure what current you're drawing.
BTW, one advantage of a fusible link is that it is weatherproof (fuse holders are more difficult to weatherproof). One disadvantage is that when it blows, it's more difficult to replace (fuse holders are easy).
Apeiron is correct.
If you can't find (or don't want) a relpacement fusible link, you can repair the fusible link by putting a fuse in its place (as you suggested). In-line ATC (that's the automotive blade type fuse) fuse holders are available at automotive parts stors (Pep Boys, etc.). Be sure you get one with 12AWG wire, NOT the smaller 16AWG wire. You'll want to put a 15 (blue) or 20 (yellow) fuse in it. The smaller fuse holder will not be able to handle the higher current, the 12 AWG wire will. Make sure the fuse holder comes with a cover to seal the fuse from the weather.
If you put a 15 ampere fuse in, and it blows, replace it with a 20 ampere fuse. Not sure what current you're drawing.
BTW, one advantage of a fusible link is that it is weatherproof (fuse holders are more difficult to weatherproof). One disadvantage is that when it blows, it's more difficult to replace (fuse holders are easy).
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
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I was the one who told you about that. Thanks for checking it, most people don't believe me when I tell them that, and never get their fan to work right!
That's not a fusible link, it's just a connector. The fusible link for that is over by the bulkhead connector, between the brake booster and the fender. So as long as it's making a good connection it's OK. Just be aware that there's ALOT of current going through there, so if the connection isn't really good, it'll just burn up again.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
That's not a fusible link, it's just a connector. The fusible link for that is over by the bulkhead connector, between the brake booster and the fender. So as long as it's making a good connection it's OK. Just be aware that there's ALOT of current going through there, so if the connection isn't really good, it'll just burn up again.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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