I have a 305 TPI, I recently replaced the tempature sender that is on the side of the EGR Valve because i kept getting 32. I put everything back the way it was suppose to go and did an oil change. Well i drove the car for over an hour straight friday and didnt code at all. i kept stalling at lights or it attempted to. Then just yesterday i put new plugs and wires on (Accell 8mm, Bosch Platinum 2). i drove about 45 minutes and got code 32 and code 44. I have thought and thought about it and the only thing i can think it would be is the gas cap (it hisses when i losen it to fill up) or the oxygen sensor (might have got hit while trying turning plugs out). Any ideas if either of these could cause it or other ideas? HELP ASAP

 

Code 32 = MAP Sensor Circuit open and code 44 =Oxygen Sensor Lean error. The hissing coming from the gas cap is normal fuel tank pressure. Check the MAP sensor connection and replace the Oxygen sensor and everything should be fine.

 

there is no map on 87 tpi 305

 

There are 3 separate code identifications for code 32 according to my GM printout.

1) BARO sensor circuit shorted (carbureted)

2) EGR circuit fault (EFI/TBI)

3) MAP sensor circuit open.

If you don't have a MAP sensor, change the EGR valve and make sure the line attached to it has enough vacuum.

 

I dont know where your getting your info buddy but none of the **** your talking about is correct. i havent even heard of half the junk your talking about. put it this way... Tuned Port Injection not ****ing mpfi or carb and the egr is stuck on there and if thats the case then **** it ill sell the piece of **** because the drivers quater panel is rubbing anyway now from *** knows what and im about it just buy a stang and join the crowd. why waste my time on this piece of gm crap i aint had nothing but problems since i bought it. im done

 

:sillylol:

Calm down for a second, I understand these older fuel injection cars can be really frustrating (that goes for Mustangs too..). We all have to deal with our own share of stuff breaking on us now that these cars are pushin' 15+ years old..

Code 32:
Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve

Either ur EGR valve is shot or u have a vaccum leak.. niether being too expensive to repair..

Test for a vaccum leak first by spraying a little water/soap mixture onto the lines running to the EGR valve (I believe there are 2-3 little black tubes), then fire up the car.. and look for any "bubbling" on the surface of the tubes.. also, listen for an air leak, both of those will signify a vaccum leak..

If u see / hear a leak, all u need to do is change out the tubes.

If u don't find a leak, it's probably the valve itself.. this means buying a new one and changing it out. U should be able to locate one for about $40 or so.. and make sure it's NEW, as u don't want to install a used EGR valve, trust me..

Once u've got the replacement valve, u'll need to remove the plenum off the TPI system to access the old valve.. just a few screws and bolts and it should all come off, including the valve.. pretty simple change out, just a little time consuming..

Put it all back together (u might need to get new gaskets for the TPI when u put it back together, those shouldn't be too expensive either), unplug the battery for a minute (to reset ur ecm), then plug it back and u should be all clear of ur Code 32 and stalling problems.

Code 44:
Oxygen sensor lean

This could be tied into ur EGR problem, and go away once u take care of the valve and/or vaccum leak..

If it doesn't, u might be lookin at a shot sensor.. that's really all I can guess, hopefully someone else can back me up on this?

Hope this helps you out a little, and remember.. if u buy a used (old) car, ur gonna run into problems that need fixing (Ford or Chevy), so just running off to buy a Stang doesn't mean u won't run into similar issues down the road..

Good luck man

-LJ

 

I recently did the plugs like i said and i think the sensor might have gotten hit with the rachet. the best thing i can do right now is buy the sensor and socket and do that hoping i can get it off. those lines fron the egr solenoid that rubber thing well i took those lines out of that and cleaned it and i had the plenum off and tapped on the egr valve with a rubber hammer hoping to release the carbon deposits and when i got it all back together i didnt get a code. well the next day after doing the plugs they are back. i have suspected a bad o2 sensor for a while and have wondered if it could cause the 32. is that possible?

 

A bad O2 sensor won't cause a 32.. but might (again, I am unsure..) contribute to it, gotta look into both..

You said the valve has deposits? I'm more than willing to bet the whole problem is that valve..

How many miles do u have on that Z28? My IROC had 88,000 miles on it when the EGR went bad..

Code 32 + stalling problems definitely points to a spent EGR valve or vaccum leak..

I'd concentrate on that first..

Hopefully someone else will comment on the O2 sensor (Code 44)..

-LJ

 

it isnt stalling anymore. i tapped on the top of the valve hoping to knock loose and deposits it might have in it. it has 162,000 miles on it. i dunno if the valve has ever been replaced. i tried getting it off when i have the plenum off but one of the bolts was stuck so i was just like forget it. i dont really want to take all that back off so im hoping i can get a better insight. a friend of mine replaced the valve and solenoid and the temp sensor that screws into the valve and is still getting 32 so something else has to be a factor.

 

Just did a search on here and it turns out the O2 sensor IS linked..

Not sure how exactly, but it sounds like that's the next thing to check up on and possibly replace..

-LJ

 

Kev,

If your O² sensor is more than 30,000 miles old, just replace it. Just do it for normal maintenance.

And, yes, a "32" can mean different things on different engines. Obviously, an earlier ('87) TPI is not going to have a MAP, but '90-92 models do.

As for the EGR, you can use this flow chart to diagnose the problem(s):

 

hey can u email me that chart so i can print it? and my o2 sensor is about a year old im guessing. i dont think its quite 30,000 miles old but i noticed a few dents in it from doing the spark plugs and figured it might be broken. well its still stalling after all.

 

i have a pic of my 02 sensor but need to post it so you can tell me if its bad

 

You can attach files in ur post.. look below the "Options" section..

-LJ

 

If your O² is only about a year old, it is probably not a problem unless it has been contaminated somehow (coolant, incompatible RTV sealant, oil, etc.).

You can right-click the imamge of the flow chart and save it to your local disc.

 

i went ahead and replaced the o2 sensor. hasnt stalled and no codes yet. waiting to get on a 45 min highway drive tho. i dont see how it would fix my 32 but it might have fixed the 44.

 

I had the infamous 32, I scrwed around guessd and messed around with the egr, although it looked like it was working, it was not, replace the EGR, and poof all my codes went.

I got codes

32-bad egr
33-vacuum too low/MAP
45-too rich

Replaced the egr about 200 miles ago no codes yet. When the egr sticks open. This in essence is a huge vacuum leak, it is actually in the intake.. sucking in more exhaust instead of closing off and allowing it to aspirate normal. that explains the 33

45 too rich If the EGR sticks closed, it doesn't get that extra non combustible exhaust on the intake stroke, means more fuel for what air it intakes...

My symptoms, $$$ty idle, $$ity throtlle response, and no power. when i let off the gas at idle in P or nuetral, i would lope-surge all cam like, and want to die.

Check this link for some more and better EGR discussion..I uploaded a pic with some things to check

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=195284

Please forgive the typing/spelling this keyboard Bites.