I've had this problem every since I've gotten the car, and I guess it won't fix itself. I've read other posts about this, and some say that the choke light is actually an alternator gage, and it means it isn't charging at low RPM's. This is'nt the case on my car, because it charges at 14 volts at idle, and the choke won't open at all. I do get a slight (below 12 VDC) to the choke element, but not enough to heat it and cause it to open. I know there is a relay somewhere for the choke, but does anyone know where exactly it is? I have 3 on the driver's side firewall - which one is for the choke? BTW the carb is a rebuilt with a new choke element, so I doubt that's the problem. Anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it?? Thanks in advance for any help. -Jeff

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Freshly rebuilt 19831/2 or 3/4 Camaro Z28 305 H.O. 3:73 Gears, BW T-5, Duel Snorkle, Rhino Clutch, 2040 Compu-cam, LS1 valve springs, porting, PST front end kit, K&N Filter and runs great but ain't streetable yet!!....Future Mods: Not yet decided if I'll keep it!

 

Confused,

Since I'm guessing you have an E4ME. Check the ground path for the heater element. Also check the oil pressure switch, since many of the older designs energize the chock heater through the oil pressure switch. I might be wrong about you year, but it's something to check.

Later,
Vader

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"Some Body...Someone"

 

Thanks for responding Vader! I have a manual on the car, and I thought it was some kind of typo when it also said to check the wiring to the oil pressure switch. I'll have to check it, but what am I looking for? I do know that the oil gage inside the car stays maxed out at over 60 PSI all the time, but I figured it was because of the engine being a fresh rebuild. You also mentioned checking the ground path from the heater element. I thought that if the carb was bolted down properly, it would ground that way. Is that right? Mechanically, I can fix about anything on the car, but electrically, well, let's say that I'm not too good at fixing those type of problems because on these cars, some of the wiring routes don't make any sense to me. For instance- why would a car company wire a choke heater system into an oil pressure sending system?? Just does'nt make sense to me. I know from reading all the posts on this board though, that you certainly help out quite a few people here because of your experience with these cars. Perhaps if you could clarify a little on your previous response (keep it basic) then I'll have a better understanding of what you are talking about. Oh, BTW, it is a 1983 Z28 L69 with the computer controlled 4 barrel carb, and a pain to get the right parts for! Thanks again!

 

Confuzed,

The choke heater element was wired through contacts in the oil pressure switch so that the choke heater element would only be energized when the engine was actually running, not just when the key was turned on. Having lived in the midwest for a few years, you can probably appreciate having a reliable choke on those brisk -35°F late-January mornings, especially when the car doesn't fire on the first try and the key has been left on for a few minutes. The choke still needs to be closed once it does fire.

The oil pressure switch for the choke is probably a separate unit from the one that controls the dash instrument. The LG4 also has a throttle-kicker relay which is in the choke circuit and may affect operation. You might want to check connections and wiring there if you have this engine.

Later E4MEs had a choke controlled by a relay mounted on the electrical "convenience center" panel with the turn signal and hazard flashers, other relays, warning buzzer, etc. The panel is under the dash and near the radio console. Look just above and to the right of the area normally occupied by your right leg.

You may have either of these systems. In either case, double check the connections at the element itself and make sure all your fuses are O.K.

Later,
Vader

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"Some Body...Someone"

 

Sounds to me like you need the actual heater element itself which is the round black plastic piece on the carb the wire actually hooks to. You'll have to drill out its rivets to replace it.

Like Vader said, the relay is under the dash. I got your e-mail but I haven't had time to do anything about it since I'm in the middle of changing jobs and moving, which would be to scan the page with that part of the schematic for you.

Check the resistance of the heater from the terminal to ground. It should be quite low (couple of ohms). If it's more than 2 ohms or so, it's bad.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

I have a comment/question about a similar problem. Just 2 days ago I was giving this girl I know a ride and she says "Let's see what his car can do!". I hammered the gas and wound up pretty good, but then the choke light pops on with this horrible buzzing sound. My voltmeter was normal so I look under the hood just to scratch my head and wonder what's wrong. Then this girl goes "Why don't you check your fuse" and I'm like "No that's not it"... well, when Mr. Know-it-all finally decided to check his fuse he ate some humble pie! Anyone know why that fuse would blow?