No cold start unless manually spraying gas in TB
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Snohomish WA
No cold start unless manually spraying gas in TB
I tried starting up my 1989 GTA 350 L98 Convert and it just turned and turned over. Took the ducting off that comes off MAF sensor and Throttle body,opened up butterflies and squirted in about 10 CCs of gas. I hooked up ducting and it fired instantly? 1988 had a cold start injector what does 1989 use? Is it up to the computer to figure out the amount of gas to inject and why would mine not start? It did this last year a few times also. It does it after it is a bit warm also but its intermitent. 
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
AFAIK, it uses the coolant temp sensor to tell the injector to inject extra gas when cold. However I wouldn't think it would cause a "no start" condition, just hard starting.
But what do I know, I'm a stone age carb guy
But what do I know, I'm a stone age carb guy
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The Hawk is right on. The '89 used the CTS and IAT to determine atmospheric and engine conditions, then administered extra starting fuel through the eight service injectors instead of a dedicated ninth injector, as used on earlier TPI models.
A few things that you can do to check your system are:
Verify fuel pump "priming" operation before cranking the engine. The extra fuel won't appear if there isn't adequate rail pressure;
Check the resistance of the CTS and IAT sensors. Make sure the sensors are properly connected (electrically);
Verify distributor reference pulses at the ECM while cranking;
Verify that the IAT and CTS signals are within 40°F of one another before starting (would require a data-logging scan tool);
Send that nasty old 'vert to me for diagnosis and repair. I promise I'll have it running right and back to you by November - Christmas at the latest...
A few things that you can do to check your system are:
Verify fuel pump "priming" operation before cranking the engine. The extra fuel won't appear if there isn't adequate rail pressure;
Check the resistance of the CTS and IAT sensors. Make sure the sensors are properly connected (electrically);
Verify distributor reference pulses at the ECM while cranking;
Verify that the IAT and CTS signals are within 40°F of one another before starting (would require a data-logging scan tool);
Send that nasty old 'vert to me for diagnosis and repair. I promise I'll have it running right and back to you by November - Christmas at the latest...
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 106
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From: Snohomish WA
Thanks for the advice. The problem happened last year also and happens sometimes when warm. It happened about 8 times last year. I have had continuous problems with this car starting but last problems were "turn the key and nothing" After replacing Ignition, Vat keys, Neutral safety switch, starter twice. etc etc etc. I finally figured it out. "STARTER ENABLE RELAY" The car would start with a jump every time so I put two and two together and figured the higher voltage with running car was able to snap a relay together and as a result it would start. This was a real pain to figure out and left my wife stranded many many times. Now we have lost all trust in this car starting every time. Hopefully I remedy this problem faster and gain the confidence in this car once and for all or Vader ,you may just get this car!!! LOL. Oh SNOHOMISH is an Indian name as is Seattle after Chief Seattle. Snohomish was an old logging town and is now famous for antique stores. They have one of the biggest car shows each year in the North West. "Vader" if you are ever in the Seattle area , look me up. These are some of my projects. 5 pages http://groups.msn.com/SixtyEightFire...ox.msnw?Page=1
Last edited by sixt8bird; May 12, 2003 at 12:58 PM.
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