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cranks and backfires...

Old Jun 3, 2003 | 01:05 PM
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cranks and backfires...

My positive battery cable came too close to the supercharger pulley. I was driving and it just turned off. I know I burned something but whatis it?? Checked fuses and they are ok. It will crank over and sometimes even backfire loudly as it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ps I got a code33
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 02:09 AM
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not to sound stupid but you no longer have a MAF setup right? cause a 33 means your MAF is reading wrong, other wise check your timing and wires and plugs cause it sounds more like you have grounded out your engine some how, also(this one took me a while) check your fuel pump and pressure regulator, cause my pump went, and i replaced it, and had the back firing and whole nine yards, then found out the regulator went, then it ran bad because my timing was off, and right now it is in a shop cause i have a bad sensor or messed up wiring and i gave up, but hope something here gives you a start in some sorta direction
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 08:46 AM
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thanks for the help. However i still do have the MAF set up. The fuel pump is new and the pressure is ok. I cant figure it out everything is new and it was working fine till it died. everything has about 50 miles on it. Just replaced the computer and still the same. eventually Ill find it. thanks for your help buddy.
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 01:59 PM
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Originally posted by Transformer
Just replaced the computer and still the same...
Replacing parts without diagnosing the system can get expensive, can't it? It's almost never a good idea.

The next time you get it running, get out your DVM and set it on a 20VAC scale. That's right - AC. Test the alternator output voltage right at the terminal stud on the back of the alternator. If you can read more than 0.20VAC, you have a potential problem. Any AC voltage over that level can cause ground reference problems (noise) that can render input signals to the ECM useless.

Let us know. If that's the case, fully charge the battery. Disconnect and isolate the alternator output lead. Start the engine again. Your problems may be gone.
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 03:16 PM
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Originally posted by Vader

The next time you get it running, get out your DVM and set it on a 20VAC scale. That's right - AC. Test the alternator output voltage right at the terminal stud on the back of the alternator. If you can read more than 0.20VAC, you have a potential problem. Any AC voltage over that level can cause ground reference problems (noise) that can render input signals to the ECM useless.

mmmmm...tasty information...

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