Thanks, now Im all mixed up
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Valley, NY
Car: surprise!! a '92RS!!!
Engine: L03
Transmission: 5 speed "M39"
Thanks, now Im all mixed up
Thanx for info-All mixed up!!
'92 RS 305TBI---5 speed. L03.
OK, I read and read and...
My goal, at this point: Make my car noticeably more "punchy", but I won't be racing it. Prefer to keep it emissions-legal. Don't have an unlimited budget, nor do I have friends at machine shops. If any of this stuff requires an ECM modification, I'm at the mercy of a stranger on the other end of a phone or e-mail.
After reading every post I can find, I'm picking up on the following:
1/ The biggest limitation on my engine is moving air through it.
2/ Cam and headers look to be the most cost-effective way to
"turn up the volume".
3/ Many people here seem to be happy with the LT-1 cam, which
is almost a direct bolt-in.
4/ There may be a concern regarding the pressed-in rocker studs,
depending on what cam I use.
5/ Gears (mine are 3.08's) also appear to be a cost-effective way
to add punch without killing driveability. Thinking of 3.42s.
I would really like to avoid working with the heads.
I'm really curious as to what parts which come off a mid-80's 305 or V-6 would be usable. I have access to a number of these, and I'm wondering if I can save a few bucks by answering these questions:
Are there any stock exhaust manifolds, as bolt-ons, which might be an alternative for headers?
Would any of the stock intake manifolds be a bolt-on for mine, and are any of them any better? I'd need an adapter for the TBI, I guess..
Is the LT-1 cam likely to cause me any problems with the stock heads/valvetrain? Or anything else?
If I can find a V-6 with a complete rear, and the ratio is right, are they an exact bolt-on? Don't think I'll need or want posi, in fact I may be better off without it--less strain on the trans...??? Since I'm not looking to get 270hp out of this motor---I'm guessing 225-240 would be enough to satisfy me, I really don't imagine I'll be smoking the right rear tire that bad, hell, with this car, a chirp into 2nd would thrill me...can always add posi later..
I know the guys on here could make a smokin animal out of my car, but I 'm not prepared at this point to go that route. I guess I want my cake and eat it too (easy work, cheap parts, lots of power), but I don't think 225hp or so is asking for a lot of cake.
Like many of you, I'm intrigued at how GM kind of "crippled" this engine on purpose, and it doesn't look all that hard to remove a couple of the basic stumbling blocks and make the car a lot more fun to drive.
Thanks.
'92 RS 305TBI---5 speed. L03.
OK, I read and read and...
My goal, at this point: Make my car noticeably more "punchy", but I won't be racing it. Prefer to keep it emissions-legal. Don't have an unlimited budget, nor do I have friends at machine shops. If any of this stuff requires an ECM modification, I'm at the mercy of a stranger on the other end of a phone or e-mail.
After reading every post I can find, I'm picking up on the following:
1/ The biggest limitation on my engine is moving air through it.
2/ Cam and headers look to be the most cost-effective way to
"turn up the volume".
3/ Many people here seem to be happy with the LT-1 cam, which
is almost a direct bolt-in.
4/ There may be a concern regarding the pressed-in rocker studs,
depending on what cam I use.
5/ Gears (mine are 3.08's) also appear to be a cost-effective way
to add punch without killing driveability. Thinking of 3.42s.
I would really like to avoid working with the heads.
I'm really curious as to what parts which come off a mid-80's 305 or V-6 would be usable. I have access to a number of these, and I'm wondering if I can save a few bucks by answering these questions:
Are there any stock exhaust manifolds, as bolt-ons, which might be an alternative for headers?
Would any of the stock intake manifolds be a bolt-on for mine, and are any of them any better? I'd need an adapter for the TBI, I guess..
Is the LT-1 cam likely to cause me any problems with the stock heads/valvetrain? Or anything else?
If I can find a V-6 with a complete rear, and the ratio is right, are they an exact bolt-on? Don't think I'll need or want posi, in fact I may be better off without it--less strain on the trans...??? Since I'm not looking to get 270hp out of this motor---I'm guessing 225-240 would be enough to satisfy me, I really don't imagine I'll be smoking the right rear tire that bad, hell, with this car, a chirp into 2nd would thrill me...can always add posi later..
I know the guys on here could make a smokin animal out of my car, but I 'm not prepared at this point to go that route. I guess I want my cake and eat it too (easy work, cheap parts, lots of power), but I don't think 225hp or so is asking for a lot of cake.
Like many of you, I'm intrigued at how GM kind of "crippled" this engine on purpose, and it doesn't look all that hard to remove a couple of the basic stumbling blocks and make the car a lot more fun to drive.
Thanks.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,445
Likes: 1
From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
A good way to get started:
Start with exhaust and intake... headers-back would be great but cat-back is good too, and K&N filters, etc. Check out the tech articles for Ultimate TBI mods and free mods. Then do some weight reduction.
Start with exhaust and intake... headers-back would be great but cat-back is good too, and K&N filters, etc. Check out the tech articles for Ultimate TBI mods and free mods. Then do some weight reduction.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
1) the bigges limitation on the l03 is A LOT of things, the heads suck, the cam sucks, the manifold sucks, the exaust sucks.
2) yes, cam and headers are a great starting point, but you will always be limited by the crappy heads, and intake.
3) i haven't ever used an lt1 cam, but it seems to be a hot ticket
4) i wouldnt' worry about the studs until you get into the .480 + lift range. if you use the lt1 you will be no where near that.
5) go for the 3.42's the v6 one will bolt right in. peg leg 3.42 is better than peg leg 3.08, but i would go posi since you are already doing all the work of putint in a new rear, why not spend 100 bucks and put in a posi?
2) yes, cam and headers are a great starting point, but you will always be limited by the crappy heads, and intake.
3) i haven't ever used an lt1 cam, but it seems to be a hot ticket
4) i wouldnt' worry about the studs until you get into the .480 + lift range. if you use the lt1 you will be no where near that.
5) go for the 3.42's the v6 one will bolt right in. peg leg 3.42 is better than peg leg 3.08, but i would go posi since you are already doing all the work of putint in a new rear, why not spend 100 bucks and put in a posi?
You don't need an unlimited budget. You don't need friends in chip-cutting places.
I would suggest getting a spare pair of '187 heads from a salvage yard, shop, etc. Have the intake valves enlarged to 1.94" at your convenience (cost me $30). Install screwed studs yourself (cost me $16 for studs). Port the valve bowls and match the gasket openings at a minimum in yourt spare time. Install Manley Street-Flo or Race-Flo valves at your convenience (about $140 for valves). Use decent springs when you do that - at a minimum GM LT4 springs that won't require head machining. ($80 from GM for the whole setup of springs, retainers, aqnd locks). For less than $300 you can have some decent heads on your engine.
Once you're all set and ready, pisck up a cam, timing chain set, and gasket set, then plan a couple of days to swap the cam and heads. You should be pleased with the results. I've seen take-out LT1 cams going for less than $50.
I would suggest getting a spare pair of '187 heads from a salvage yard, shop, etc. Have the intake valves enlarged to 1.94" at your convenience (cost me $30). Install screwed studs yourself (cost me $16 for studs). Port the valve bowls and match the gasket openings at a minimum in yourt spare time. Install Manley Street-Flo or Race-Flo valves at your convenience (about $140 for valves). Use decent springs when you do that - at a minimum GM LT4 springs that won't require head machining. ($80 from GM for the whole setup of springs, retainers, aqnd locks). For less than $300 you can have some decent heads on your engine.
Once you're all set and ready, pisck up a cam, timing chain set, and gasket set, then plan a couple of days to swap the cam and heads. You should be pleased with the results. I've seen take-out LT1 cams going for less than $50.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Valley, NY
Car: surprise!! a '92RS!!!
Engine: L03
Transmission: 5 speed "M39"
Swirl Port heads?
Vader,
You referred to '187 heads. According to a recent post, looks they are "swirl port" heads---and it looks like many say to stay away from them.
Am I reading this wrong?
Thanks,
Dean
You referred to '187 heads. According to a recent post, looks they are "swirl port" heads---and it looks like many say to stay away from them.
Am I reading this wrong?
Thanks,
Dean
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Right, the heads you really would want, are the 081 casting.
You're a long way from the intake being a restriction. The exhaust, cam, heads, air cleaner, and gears need to go first. After that, the intake may be the limit to performance, and at that time it would make sense to change it. Until then, it will help very little if at all.
You're a long way from the intake being a restriction. The exhaust, cam, heads, air cleaner, and gears need to go first. After that, the intake may be the limit to performance, and at that time it would make sense to change it. Until then, it will help very little if at all.
Last edited by RB83L69; Jun 13, 2003 at 02:31 PM.
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