Should RPM's dive with high electrical loads??
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From: MI
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Engine: Taunt
Transmission: Mustangs
Should RPM's dive with high electrical loads??
I noticed today that when I put my electric wndows up, if I keep the switches down after they're all the way up, the tach drops a hundred rpm or so. It will stay like that as long as I hold the switches down, and will always shoot back up apon releasing them. It also acts the same way if I just push the switch into the up position when they are alredy all the way up, instead of raising them to the up position and then keeping the switch down like I mentioned above.
Should this be happening? If not, what could this be a sign of?
(save your breath concerning a bad alternator, it was replaced due to different issues about 200 miles ago)
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Should this be happening? If not, what could this be a sign of?
(save your breath concerning a bad alternator, it was replaced due to different issues about 200 miles ago)
Thanks in advance for any insight.
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
im gonna tell you its normal, but im not 100% positive
my car does that to..when you turn on your turn signal and you see the volts drop then theres a problem
my car does that to..when you turn on your turn signal and you see the volts drop then theres a problem
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...just to clear this up incase of any confusion. I am not talking about my volt gauge dropping, it is my tachometer that drops. Thanks for the reply f-crazey, anyone else?
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From: SE Michigan
Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i know what you meant...like i said i beleive its normal because the window motors cant move up anymore..and your putting a load on the charging system so the rpms drop...
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: 5.7 / 350 cuid
Transmission: 700R4
Yes, that is completely normal. You'll notice the same thing happen when you turn your A/C on. Be careful though cause too much drop in RPM may be foreshowding some future problem with the alt or the batt.
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
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and it IS normal to see the volt meter drop when your turn signal goes on or you turn anything on for that matter. Only if you are at an idle however. Your ALT doesn't really start cranking the juice until 1000rpm... so at a stop light your lights can dim a little, and when your turn signal is on those lights draw alot of power, and your foot is on the break having those lights and relays on also.
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: 5.7 / 350 cuid
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, many thirdgens, especially ones with the 350TPI are notorious for going through alternators. I spent the extra money and got the lifetime warranty which has already come in handy once. Granted, some people may never have a problem with their alt, but it is fairly common. Some of the guys here in my area decided to spend the extra money on an HO alternator since they had higher HP,amps and speakers.
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