I seen somewhere but can't find it now. On valve adjustment to make it easy it said if you put 1 at TDC you can adjust certain valves and then turn the engine a certain amount and you can adjust the other valves. Does anybody have this info to make my life a bit easier and loose track of the ones i've done. Thanks.

 

Mark the crank or balancer in 90° intervals. Set the #1 at TDC on the compession stroke, and you should be able to do the #6. Rotate 90° then continue through the firing order from #6.

 

i thought you just tighten the bolts, with the valve covers off, untill there snug. then start the engine and tighten them untill the barley stop tapping. then shut of the engine and tighten another 1/4 turn. or at least thats what i was told.

 

Please, use the "search" boutton (between "f.a.q." & "home", right side in front you) for this topic = tons of info about this.


Regards

 

if you do that your going to have to replace your lifter cuz you fu*k them up doing that

PS here is somehting to think about..... how could you start the motor when the valves are not opening to let the fuel in to be burned ?

 

If it's a stock head, just tighten down the rockers until there is a little over 1/4" of threads showing ontop of the rocker nut.

That will get you started. Then, start the engine and tighten, one at a time, till the tapping of that rocker JUST stops, then turn 1/4 or 1/2 a turn. Some say 1/4 turn some say half... which ever you choose, just do it too ALL of them. Personally I do about a 1/3 turn. Best of both worlds.

If you start it and there is VERY LOUD tapping.... and it runs VERY horrible, turn the car off, and tighten each nut until there is 3/8" thread showing.

This isn't exactly the most TECHNICAL or Orthodox way of doing it, but after 4 engines, and they all running great, It's the way I do it when it's on the engine.

Hell finding 0 Lash on a motor that is on a stand is still a PITA


It's toughter to turn the engine over when the engine is in the car. If you try using the crank bolt you can strip the bolt and have a serious bitch of a problem on your hands.

Just make sure you have atleast one other person there... I like to have one person give the car some gas so that the engine keeps running (something about lack of vacuum under the valve cover when it's off, that makes the engine die) and another person with a fire extinguisher handing because of the oil getting onto the headers/manifolds.

 

#1 TDC

#1 Exhaust valve
#1 Intake valve
#3 Exhaust valve
#5 Intake valve
#7 Intake valve
#2 Intake valve
#4 Exhaust valve
#8 Exhaust valve

#6 TDC

#3 Intake valve
#5 Exhaust valve
#7 Exhaust valve
#2 Exhaust valve
#4 Intake valve
#6 Exhaust valve
#6 Intake valve
#8 Intake valve


Ron

 

BTW what ron posted wont work if you have an aftermarket cam, because the overlaps are different.

 

the overlaps maybe be different but its still the same fireing order there for it WILL work

 

Same firing order maybe, but valve timing may be totally different. To accurately adjust a valve it must be on the cam's base circle, not starting up or coming down one of the ramps. With enough duration the ramp's are wider and adjusting by the book may get you into trouble. On cam's like this I like to adjust all the valves on the cylinders that have one valve all the way open. So if the exhaust valve is open all the way, I adjust the intake, and viseversa.

Havent adjusted an engine while it was running for years.. Actually since I caught my solid liftered 396 on fire from oil on the headers. Besides it makes a terrible mess.

Most 3d gens will probably be allright adjusting by the book. ECM's and long duration cam's usually dont like each other. Another thing I like about my method is that you don't need to know where the crank is. Just turn the motor till you have the valve you want to adjust closed.

 

That's what I always use whenever I start from scratch regardless of the cam...this way you only have to turn the motor over twice rather than several times for each valve. I go zero lash plus half turn. This will get you in the ball park to keep your motor running without stalling. I then readjust lash with the motor running and warmed up. I back it off till it clacks, slowly tighten it until it stops clacking. Then I go a half a turn in quarter turn increments. It's not messy as long as you don't rev the motor. I'm running a fairly large cam (230/236) and this works very well.

 

i meant tight enough to have some play on the rockers but not tight enough to destroy the cam or lifters.

 

Here's a relevant thread from another board.. I beleive Pat Kelley is a machinist by trade.

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultim...c;f=9;t=013167