O.K., I have an 89 TA, 350 TPI. I am having a problem getting the car to fire-up. It will start fine with my battery charger hooked to it and set to the start position, but when I disconnect the battery charger, it takes a while to get the car to start. I think the battery is good, although I am going to get a new one today. It is under warranty, so I'll make Interstate give me a new one. Currently, I have 12.6 volts at the battery. When I crank the car, the voltage reading drops to about 10.8 volts. The starter spins the engine fine, no dragging. The car will start, but takes a few tries. If I hook up the charger, my voltage reads 15.8 at the battery, and the cars cranks right up. What's going on here? The ingnition is mostly new, and I replaced the ECM last week due to another problem. Anyone have an idea? Thanks in advance.

 

have you checked the Alternator out to see if it's charging properly? Is the voltage holding around 14-15 on your gauge while driving down the road or is it just acting up while starting? Maybe try cleaning the terminals real good on the battery and checked the wires running from the battery to the starter. I had clean wires and battery post when I had starting problems one time and then I looked at the wires connecting to the starter...big mess! They were so bad corroded that I just went and bought new hot and ground battery wires and replaced them. No more starting problems.

------------------
1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.

1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip

2000 Kawasaki KX 125

 

The alternator seems to be fine. My problem only occurs when starting. I replaced the terminals and ran a new ground wire. I tested the voltage earlier and found that I have low volts (9.5-10.2) on the pink wire that supplies the ingnition, the injectors, and the fuel pump. My pump works fine, but when I crank the engine, the pressure slowly drops from 42 to 34 psi. I checked 4 plug wires for spark, and checked the injectors with a noid light. Everything appears to work, but I think that the voltage on that circut is to low to make the car start up right. Maybe Vader could tell me where that circut gets it's power and grounds

 

12.6 Volts is an OK battery. Might not be charged all the way - then again it might be on it's way to the core return area of your favorite battery store. 13.2 is good if you do the math (6 cells x 2.2 v per cell = 13.2).


------------------
'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

 

I got 13.1 after it charged all night. It doesn't drop voltage at the batter as much as it does at the ignition.

 

Mr. Chill,

The pressure should drop a little while cranking, since the cranking will create some vacuum in the intake plenum. This vacuum will cause the FPR to lower the pressure at which the fuel rail operates. If you disconnect the vacuum line to the FPR, the change in pressure should not be as drastic.

Concerning the schematic, I don't have them available at this time, but I know that the fuel pump derives power through a fuse near the battery (orange wire). There may also be a fusible link for the common positive node source.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Thanks for the info guys! I'm still having a hard time with this thing. If anyone else has an idea let me know.